its just a regular zen 32 an stock carn should be fine imo
poor low end performance :(
- Thread starter tizdaz
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No need for a modded carb. Just buy the hand vac/ pressure pump and do it yourself. You will never see added performance from a modded carb at this size engine.
tizdaz
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #23
do you have a link to this pump buddy and how do i do it :s ?
ok i had a google etc, came across this:
also is this tool pressure tester ok?
Carb Pressure Tester
I see in the vids ive been watching is they use a little guage to measure height of the lever, where do i buy this little guage.
And will i need to buy new gaskets after ive opened the carb up or will i be able to use same gaskets when i rebuild it?
cheers again guys
ok i found this kit on Amazon which seems to include everything, would this be ideal: pressure kit
Last edited:
@tizdaz you need something like this you need to do the test wet which means you meed to put some furl in yhe line and the pressure pump will push it into the carb as its applying pressure. You eill see as you pump it up the carb will pop off at about 30 psi or more. You will then need to clip the coils until it reaches at about 20 psi.
tizdaz
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #25
ah ok, in the vid above they use a different method where they pump air into it to check the pop off pressure, then adjust the lever using a walbro gage tool to set correct height of lever, & then clip the spring/coil? he just puts a dab oil so it pops when testing pressure etc?
Yea thats overly done. I just put fuel in the line and then check the pop, remove the top portion to expose the metering lever/spring. If your gentle you don't need to replace the diaphragm or gasket. I have the metering lever height tool and all of the levers on my carbs and others have been at the correct height.
I set mine at 20, you'll be very surprised at how tunable your carb becomes.
- Messages
- 13,208
- Reaction score
- 22,962
Pop pressure must be set "wet" like rep said. Just using air isn't accurate. Be careful clipping the spring, it's easy to over do it. The gauges can be had off Amazon for peanuts. You should have a spare carb kit on hand anyway. They are cheap. I keep a pile of them around, but I fix a lot of small engine stuff for people too. Look at the carb sticky think I covered most all of the part numbers and setting pop pressure in it. Pretty simple to do.
Clip the spring at the arrow and start there, clip 1 coil at a time until you get to around 20.
Word of caution on this. 99% of the time they are correct but I have had them way too high or way too low new out of a rebuild kit. The height gauge you could also just use a flat piece of material across the "U" shaped area where the arm rides. It has the be flush with it in the height. You can push down on the tab tip to bend it down if needed. BUT do not try and bend the arm up while in the carb. Issue is the tip of the needle is rubber and trying to bend the arm up higher you will force the rubber tip into the seat and cut a groove into it.
Last edited:
- Messages
- 13,208
- Reaction score
- 22,962
Long time no hear! Hope you've been well.
The wt series isn't flush, it's sits bellow flush, can't remember the spec off the top of my head. Should be the same for wa, wt, WY and wz series. (If memory serves) for some reason .018" sticks in my mind but I'd have to go and measure to be sure.
Zama is flush for most of their carbs... so much easier.
Which brings a good point, you reminded me of, The metering lever needs adjusted properly before checking pop pressure. Too low and you risk not having enough fuel enter the metering chamber, causing a lean condition and too high can cause an excess of fuel In the metering chamber causing an overly rich condition.
Todd, you see needles swelling up from alcohol any more?
Doing good seandonato73. I am on here a few times a day. Just watch in the shadows. Just checked a lot of carbs in the shop all new ones. Except for the Walbro checker tool that has the center leg lower on it to reach down on some carbs. If you check it with a pocket scale you will see they all are flat though with the "U" shaped area of the casting. Unless something has changed using stock diaphram assemblies? The arms are all flush on them. The spiral gasket is different in height so that does have to come into effect and use the gauge they supply with it. A few carbs i checked here WT 1048,771,488,603, 688, 604,257, WA 144 , WYK 33, WJ 75,71. All of these were flush at the tip of the arm with "U" shaped casting area. On the rubber tips. We use Avgas or VP C8,C9 fuel so no bad additives in the fuel to cause issues with the rubber tips and diaphragms.
tizdaz
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #39
hi guys
i did pressure test, no leak at all & hold pressure perfectly, so i then taken the carb apart, used the metering tool to check lever height and the lever height is spot on, no gap & it doesn't touch or press down on the lever, its basically perfect. i just checked the pop off pressure, and my pump goes to 30psi, but there was no pop off at all when i pumped to the max of my pump which is 30! ..so im going to trim the spring as mentioned above and see what happens ^^
right ok!
so i checked a few times, pop off is about 28psi & it holds at about 25, which is way too high so yup, gonna trim the spring!
i did pressure test, no leak at all & hold pressure perfectly, so i then taken the carb apart, used the metering tool to check lever height and the lever height is spot on, no gap & it doesn't touch or press down on the lever, its basically perfect. i just checked the pop off pressure, and my pump goes to 30psi, but there was no pop off at all when i pumped to the max of my pump which is 30! ..so im going to trim the spring as mentioned above and see what happens ^^
right ok!
so i checked a few times, pop off is about 28psi & it holds at about 25, which is way too high so yup, gonna trim the spring!
Last edited:
- Messages
- 13,208
- Reaction score
- 22,962
Ah good to hear on running better fuel, idk if it was someone using aftermarket kits, but i have several people recently dropped some ope to get worked on and a few if them had swelled up needles, metering diaphragm looked like crud, well fuel systems in general looked like crud. Only thing in common was they used to be worked on by a local shop that went under. Trying to get the bulk of them to either buy electric stuff or use canned fuel. Not that I don't like the extra pocket money, it's just like groundhog day with some of these people. Every spring I get their stuff, go over the fuel system tell them, and show the ones interested what I found, and how to mitigate or prevent it. Yet every spring it's the same old tune all over again.
Yes reset is equally as important as pop pressure. Yet it's perfectly true it's mostly irrelevant for stock situations. That must be a very old manual your excerpt is from, walbro basically doesn't give pop or reset pressures in the newer manuals.