Pulling needles way out to get motor started

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Craig G.

Craig G.

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Bend, Oregon
Yeah, it seems I really have to pull the low out rich to start my cy 27.5. It seems weird to adjust the carb that much everytime! Then re-tune once it's running. It seems I can never get a couple pops if I just try it without totally messing with the 990! I still prefer a chokeless carb although I don't want to thrash my needles pulling them in and out on every run! I suppose some tuning has to happen at every run, but I feel like I mess with these way too much to get it started! The 2wd Baja platform is the way to go on the sand, big sand dune walls that face back at you make for running that is almost too good! You can keep it pinned like an airplane and really fly!
 
Craig G. said:
Yeah, it seems I really have to pull the low out rich to start my cy 27.5. It seems weird to adjust the carb that much everytime! Then re-tune once it's running. It seems I can never get a couple pops if I just try it without totally messing with the 990! I still prefer a chokeless carb although I don't want to thrash my needles pulling them in and out on every run! I suppose some tuning has to happen at every run, but I feel like I mess with these way too much to get it started! The 2wd Baja platform is the way to go on the sand, big sand dune walls that face back at you make for running that is almost too good! You can keep it pinned like an airplane and really fly!
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What are you doing to start it ?
 
You won't mess the needles up if you don't screw them in to tight, I use the same method for starting but I always either screw the low out 1 full turn or on half, then you can easily reset to your original tune??
 
I always wondered about the success of "no choke" type engines. Up here in the northeast where I can potentially be running with temps in the 40's (F) there is NO way it would be easy to start and keep running a cold engine without a choke. I suppose you could keep pressing the primer until your cold engine would stay running, but a choke is so much easier to keep a cold engine running. Maybe the guys in the deep south don't need a choke, but again up here in the cold, they are almost mandatory.
 
Polar_Bus said:
I always wondered about the success of "no choke" type engines. Up here in the northeast where I can potentially be running with temps in the 40's (F) there is NO way it would be easy to start and keep running a cold engine without a choke. I suppose you could keep pressing the primer until your cold engine would stay running, but a choke is so much easier to keep a cold engine running. Maybe the guys in the deep south don't need a choke, but again up here in the cold, they are almost mandatory.
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I need one here in the tropics too so it isn't just temp.
I use starter fluid.
I'll be replacing the 990 with a choked carb.
No noticeable performance difference between a 990 and a 668.
 
You guys all really rock here! I have about 4 other carbs here that I might try. They all work and it's about to get really cold here, I might consider using a choke model this winter. It's also rad to know I won't thrash my needles as long as they don't get screwed in too tight!
 
Running the stock "Fuelie 26", I can tell you there is a very tangible difference between the 668 and the 990. The 990 has a very distinct snap of the throttle. When you give it WOT, you get the full response of the motor without any bog or hesitation. I cannot say the same for the 668. It made my engine feel sluggish and underpowered, even after numerous tuning sessions. Could have been the pop off valve spring, but the 990 was a plug and play fix with a lot more overhead for modding.

As for adjusting your needles @Craig G. I would recommend setting them to stock and adjusting your idle needle instead. You can adjust it down once your engine is warm without worrying about needle seats. The idle needle should be more than enough to compensate the low needle setting because it incorporates the high needle into the mix.

Pressing on the primer bulb does nothing to move more fuel into your engine.

There are tons of videos with guys starting their engines in the winter, so temp has very little to do with it.
 
AnubisBC said:
Running the stock "Fuelie 26", I can tell you there is a very tangible difference between the 668 and the 990. The 990 has a very distinct snap of the throttle. When you give it WOT, you get the full response of the motor without any bog or hesitation. I cannot say the same for the 668. It made my engine feel sluggish and underpowered, even after numerous tuning sessions. Could have been the pop off valve spring, but the 990 was a plug and play fix with a lot more overhead for modding.

As for adjusting your needles @Craig G. I would recommend setting them to stock and adjusting your idle needle instead. You can adjust it down once your engine is warm without worrying about needle seats. The idle needle should be more than enough to compensate the low needle setting because it incorporates the high needle into the mix.

Pressing on the primer bulb does nothing to move more fuel into your engine.

There are tons of videos with guys starting their engines in the winter, so temp has very little to do with it.
Click to expand...

Maybe it was because it was a 26 that you saw a difference but the 990 did nothing for my G290 other than make it hard to start.
 
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