Seaducer hydro build thread

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Paul the issue I have is 2 things. 1 the pipe is supposed to be inboard of the cowl. 2nd is the fact that these boat pipes need to be at a specific length 13.5" to start and from talking to hydro racers they run them at 12 1/4". From what I understand its the face of the exhaust port to the center of the converging and divergent cones. Seaducer designed the boat to use a 106 degree header and I have a 105 I was told a 105 will work but yea that was a good joke... I can't find a 106 anywhere or if I can find a 105 degree with a tighter radius I can make due with it.... this boat stuff is full on cut,grind,weld, etc. The only thing that bolts together as intended is the engine parts other than that use your imagination. I had to dremel down some of the stringer for the reed part of the case to drop down into the boat more and I also find it interesting that every bit of stainless hardware on the boat side is SAE and that stands true on all of my boats
 
ah right ryan, had another look at the pics and looks like you'd be spot on if ya didnt have the headers water jacket/cooler on there,
1 degree doesn't seem like a lot , but obvious its massive when things are so tight in there,
couple of things, i take it the engine has to be dead centre for the prop shaft ? no wiggle room there, what i mean is , could you shift the engine over slightly to make the 105 degree header clear ? if the shafts on a flex drive i mean,
other thing is what is the header made of ? hard to tell whether its steel or alloy in the pics, could the header be tweeked an extra degree, disassemble it and tweek the bend over that 1 degree extra,
just tryin to give you ideas ryan (y):)
 
Thanks for the ideas Paul 👍... as far as moving the engine I can't do that as I've set up the engine 100% dead center so there's zero drag on the flex shaft coming into the hull, it's so perfect I can pull the flex shaft out and re insert it without looking and it goes right into the collet like butter. Over time the shaft will chew the stuffing tube from it rubbing and the last thing I think anyone wants to do is have to dig epoxy out of a hull to install a new brass tube. This boat needs every i dotted and T crossed if I want it to hit 80mph. The pipe yea im gunna take it off and heat it to the bend i need but it's stainless and we know stainless does not like to bend also I see how much I can cut from behind the flange so the coworker that fried my beard owes me a favor so I'm gunna cash in on that and have him re weld the flange and shorten up the header on the flange side
 
The header is modified now im just waiting for my coworker to get home so he can weld it for me. I test fitted it and now we are on the money now I can adjust the pipe in and out now without being way off the measurement..... ill clean up and blue the pipe when he's done welding20210918_162430.jpg
 
Yea on a 4-40 rod the servo can bend it in half so I really don't see the need for this. The bonzi and this both had the hitec 1/4 scale servos. The one that was in this boat is about 10 years old so I may just opt for a new one....also routing a throttle linkage is holding me up im not getting enough travel to open the carb fully so I may opt for a cable
 
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