Silicon heater hoses with original canister exhausts

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Bryan K.

Bryan K.

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Richmond Hill, Ontario
So I have a DBXL and I 100% want to use the original canister exhaust, no exceptions. However, I'm having a real hard time getting a hose to stay on it. I've tried rubber, teflon and Silicon hoses and they all eventually blow off from the heat, pressure and oil. There isn't much metal to clamp on either, so it's actually a really bad design if it fact it was designed for a hose to be put on it. I've clamped down as hard as I can and usually what happens is the clamp strips out or the clamp gets so tight it just pops the hose out. My last resort, I grinded all the paint off the nipple and roughed it up, then JB welded a bead around the outside edge of the nipple. Hopefully when I clamp down on it, the bead will stop it from blowing off. Should work, I did this all the time on my intercooler pipes on my Turbocharged 1:1 cars. There isn't much room for the bead, but I'm out of ideas.

What have you guys who run the canister exhausts been doing? I feel like nobody runs the stock exhaust anymore. I just hate noise and I don't like the bulk of the tuned pipes. Plus I question whether or not they do anything. Usually when something is louder, it "feels" like it's faster when it actually isn't. Very common with 1:1 cars when ricer's add open style air filters and louder mufflers.

Also, how is the design of the original canister made to function? It just blows hot goo all over everything (servos, linkages, wires, battery box, etc)? Seems like a pretty dumb design.

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It's been dyno proven tuned pipes make more power. There are decent silencers out there to tame the noise. And it sounds like you've done all you can do to keep your hose on, out side or rolling a bead at the end of your exhaust. I don't know how your jb weld will hold up. I know on my diesel It wouldnt stand a chance. I actually had to buy a bead roller and use turnbuckles to keep the pipes together. But that's way more pressure then what these little exhausts make. You could braze a longer pipe on to form a nipple so you would have more meat for a clamp to grab on. Silicon hose is still your best bet imo.
 
Seandonato73 said:
It's been dyno proven tuned pipes make more power.
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What he said. They don't just look nice and make it louder. 2 strokes need scavenging (i believe that's what it's called) from the expansion chamber on those tuned oipes to make optimal power. I can't really explain how it works and I'll likely make a fool I myself but I'm sure you be able to find plenty of great articles on how they work and you'll also be able to find Dyno results.
 
I hope the JB bead works for you. I tried different clamps and none of them held. I drilled four 1/8" holes 90 degrees apart without deburring them, hoping that the clamp would squish the hose through the holes. That didn't work either. I was going to attempt cutting grooves around the nipple with a dremel and cut off wheel, but when I got home from my last outing, a DDM Dominator pipe was sitting on my doorstep.
 
Top Dead Center said:
I hope the JB bead works for you. I tried different clamps and none of them held. I drilled four 1/8" holes 90 degrees apart without deburring them, hoping that the clamp would squish the hose through the holes. That didn't work either. I was going to attempt cutting grooves around the nipple with a dremel and cut off wheel, but when I got home from my last outing, a DDM Dominator pipe was sitting on my doorstep.
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LOL.....That would definitely work!....(y)
 
Z.hb71 said:
What he said. They don't just look nice and make it louder. 2 strokes need scavenging (i believe that's what it's called) from the expansion chamber on those tuned oipes to make optimal power. I can't really explain how it works and I'll likely make a fool I myself but I'm sure you be able to find plenty of great articles on how they work and you'll also be able to find Dyno results.
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What Sean And Zed said+1?
Top Dead Center said:
I hope the JB bead works for you. I tried different clamps and none of them held. I drilled four 1/8" holes 90 degrees apart without deburring them, hoping that the clamp would squish the hose through the holes. That didn't work either. I was going to attempt cutting grooves around the nipple with a dremel and cut off wheel, but when I got home from my last outing, a DDM Dominator pipe was sitting on my doorstep.
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Was gonna say speak to TDC ? if i rember right we pulled the piss out of him and his can?????? .......so that did not last?
 
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@Bryan K. Understanding that you have a 100% mandate on using the stock exhaust can. I'm not gonna try to steer you to a tuned pipe, even though that's the best option. They don't always have to be stupid loud. Just look for a silenced pipe. My silenced Jetpro 5t pipe is really not much louder than the stock can

However, If you simply can't abide anything other than the stock can, your options are somewhat limited. I certainly hope your JB weld fix holds up. If it doesn't, you could always try to braze a ring onto the stinger if you have the tools, or run some screws through the tube and into the stinger.

Bryan K. said:
Also, how is the design of the original canister made to function? It just blows hot goo all over everything (servos, linkages, wires, battery box, etc
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I don't think Losi ever designed this car around the stock motor can. This is the same canister that has been on these motors since the dawn of 2-stroke. I imagine they figured most folks who buy these models already have a tuned pipe sitting in their garage just waiting for a car. Which is not entirely inaccurate among the large scale crowd.
 
I hate those fiddlesticking things SO MUCH! I don't think there is any solution other than getting a length of metal pipe and extend it through the shell. It wont look so flash but you will be free from having that black goo everywhere. You have to extend it a fair bit out though or you will get it all over the side of the vehicle. Maybe you can get some metal pipe and have it bend so it goes from the exhaust can and down and out under the body shell. SO the goo is blasted into the ground, which also dampens the sound a little. I don't know how it would affect performance. One way to find out.
 
Those stock cans really are bloody loud compared to a well built silenced, tuned pipe. I swear a stock DBXL can 50ft away is louder than an Olimat at 10ft.
 
I would drill a hole in the lip and put a small washer with a rivet through the muffler and hose top and bottom and should be good..
 
Bailing wire!....(y)

That could be the reason why it comes off ,the elbow in the hose ,it is causing the fast moving gasses to hit an change
direction ,the gasses are hammering the tube off ,try a straight tube out the ass!
 
Bryan K. said:
So I have a DBXL and I 100% want to use the original canister exhaust, no exceptions. However, I'm having a real hard time getting a hose to stay on it. I've tried rubber, teflon and Silicon hoses and they all eventually blow off from the heat, pressure and oil. There isn't much metal to clamp on either, so it's actually a really bad design if it fact it was designed for a hose to be put on it. I've clamped down as hard as I can and usually what happens is the clamp strips out or the clamp gets so tight it just pops the hose out. My last resort, I grinded all the paint off the nipple and roughed it up, then JB welded a bead around the outside edge of the nipple. Hopefully when I clamp down on it, the bead will stop it from blowing off. Should work, I did this all the time on my intercooler pipes on my Turbocharged 1:1 cars. There isn't much room for the bead, but I'm out of ideas.

What have you guys who run the canister exhausts been doing? I feel like nobody runs the stock exhaust anymore. I just hate noise and I don't like the bulk of the tuned pipes. Plus I question whether or not they do anything. Usually when something is louder, it "feels" like it's faster when it actually isn't. Very common with 1:1 cars when ricer's add open style air filters and louder mufflers.

Also, how is the design of the original canister made to function? It just blows hot goo all over everything (servos, linkages, wires, battery box, etc)? Seems like a pretty dumb design.

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Sadly I'm going to be that guy. If you don't like noise, you should go electric. And it would probably be faster than 2smoke . You shoudn't try to tame the beast. Embrace the animal within. Let her loose an be the freak that she is.
 
Wow, lots of replies. Thanks for all your suggestions guys. I ran the buggy for a full tank yesterday with my beaded setup and it did absolutely fine. No issues with the pipes blowing off now. The long hose I used which I routed down to the ground between the chassis and rear A arm seriously quieted down the noise. To me, it's the right amount of noise and makes it enjoyable. I know some people love it loud, but to me it's irritating and takes away from the enjoyment. Also, I live in a pretty populated area. The last thing I would want to do is ruin the hobby for everyone by getting RC's banned in my area. The reason for me to switch to gas from my brushless setup has nothing to do with wanting noise. The brushless setups have problems of their own (mainly overheating motors and short run times). If not for those issues I always prefer electric. Not having instant power on tap from the gas motor is taking some time to get used to. The mechanical brakes are awesome though!

If for nothing else, if I find the power is lacking in the future, I may get a Victory silenced pipe for more oomph.
 

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