So i started doing my own anodizing 🤔

[Rep732]

Long story short I needed a way to match the purple anodized parts that will be on my boat build. Problem was the parts I wanted didn't have an option to be in various colors so I took it upon myself to learn anodizing and this is what I've come up with so far learning the process.. its extremely rewarding but extreme caution is a must with the chemicals used

 

[John Parks]

Very nice, always wanted to learn it just never seem to have the time

 

[Rep732]

Thanks @John Parks pretty easy to do

 

[spents]

you're gettin it all sussed out now ryan, top job

 

[Bizzer]

Awesome job Rep. Like I mentioned in your boat build I will heading down this same path. I like that you started a separate thread so we can all discuss this and learn.

I have a couple of questions for you.
Did you go through the bother of doing the 720 Calc or just wing it for the initial anodizing?
Did you use a dedicated power supply or just do it with a 12 volt battery and charger?

Really impressed with your final result Ryan, way to go!

 

[Rep732]

Thanks Paul ... im definitely getting the hang of it

 

[Z.hb71]

Looks good but not as good as you ryan

 

[Rep732]

@Bizzer I did reference the 720 calculator
I did wing it with the cap but I went from 19v @ 2amps to 12v@ 6amps and that worked great. Also noticed with more amps the solution gets more active and it starts getting warm if I had to guess it was around 105 degrees. Also with larger pieces more current needs to be pushed through the piece... for smaller pieces I used a laptop battery charger and for the cap I used a 12v battery charger. Im buying an adjustable dc power source tomorrow so I can have more accurate power. I did a test piece first to see what im working with so I didn't ruin something I didn't want to buy again.

Also if you want the part to have a shine to it DO NOT etch it in the lye. You will end up with a matte finish even tho it looks interesting its just way wrong looking. Etching should be short and if you want to anodize something that's already anodized with color put it in the lye till it dissolved the color... anodizing is the process of building a coating and the color is cosmetic...

I hope we can all learn together and I'd love to see others try

 

[Bizzer]

That’s really great info. The power supply I bought is up to 30v and 10 amps, having said that it’s a chinesium eBay special so who knows.

That’s the first I’ve heard about the caustic and finish result, so good to know.

Yeah, like you said anodizing is actually an accelerated form of oxidation which grows a hollow substrate to accept and hold the dye.

 

[Rep732]

Lucky I have a place close to me that sells power supplies so I see they have a name brand used one for 35 bucks. Also I would recommend the 720 rule just so you have a ball park idea rather than going in blind. You must use either aluminum or titanium for racking or jigging i bought aluminum tig rod for 10 bucks and it came with 2p pieces. also its imperative to make sure you have excellent contact with the piece and the electricity will follow the path of least resistance and you will have a piece with strong color on one side and dull on the other. On the cap I made a coil with the tig rod that the cap sat on to ensure full contact around the whole cap.

All parts must be spotless and free of oil and contamination. I used spray 9 as it won't etch the aluminum.

Keep close attention when dying it. Dunk it for a few seconds then pull it out and when you get to the color you want wash it with clean water and then throw it in a boiling pot of distilled water for atleast 10 minutes to seal the color...

You must use distilled water for all processes
1 clean bucket to dunk the part from etching or from going to the dye bath
2 you must use distilled water for the acid bath
3 the ratio for acid to water is 50/50... pour slow when adding acid just so it doesn't splash... no the acid doesn't go wild when its introduced to water.
3 keep baking soda on hand so if you spill acid or get it on you it will immediately neutralize the acid.
4 when your done and want to dispose of the acid and heed my warning add baking soda to the solution slowly as it will react like a vinegar and baking soda volcano.. to be safe place the container with the acid in a larger container or bucket because if you go too fast it will foam over and now you have acid everywhere...ask me how I know that

Any more questions feel free to ask

Here's what it looks like when you etch too long. See how the finish is matte and the spot with the water is shiny

But don't worry if you mess it up clean the color off with lye and then polish the piece again with a wire wheel on a dremel and start over. The process adds to the piece not take away so its not a losing battle

Here's what the piece should look like when anodized right

 

[Bizzer]

Really great synopsis of key points from everything I’ve researched! Well done.

 

[Rep732]

Thanks bizzer ...the hardest thing about the process is the correct power input and the length of time you need it to be in the bath... when you have it right you'll see micro bubbles coming from the piece

Forgot to mention pay attention where you attach the jig or rack as if it contacts a place you want color it will leave a shadow and the dye can't penatrate that spot

 

[RcJunkie13]

Can I use this as a power source
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...i2cXuMoC-5otMIcLx2xoCArYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Rep732]

I really wanna laugh but no junkie you can't thats a jump box and it puts out too many amps. You'll burn a hole through your piece in seconds. I borrowed a friend's battery charger that was old because any new small battery charger with a 6v/12v needs to see a charge to put out any power.

 

[Bizzer]

@RcJunkie13 Spend some time fella and thoroughly research this out if you decide you want to give it a go. There’s tons of info readily available on the interweb.

 

[Rep732]

And don't forget junkie the bigger the part the more power you will need. And you need to think first where will you dispose of the chemicals before you do this. You need a place to get rid of the acid and as for the lye I would think you can dump in the toilet as it is drain cleaner after all

 

[RcJunkie13]

Interesting.... I kinda wanna do a green build on the 5b and all the green parts are from integy, so I may give it a try this summer

 

[MonsterAir]

I was watching some vids on this and 2 guys mentioned as long as you degrease well and it passes some spray test (check for beading w/ water spray) you don't have to etch the parts. Sounds like if you can skip that step your better off for the shinny finish.

 

[Bizzer]

Water break test

 

[Rep732]

Yea monster they call it the water break test.. if the whole part can hold water across the entire surface without one area beading up its free from contamination