sperera has a slash

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gave the slash a quick test in the back last night. rear end is slightly better but still sticky down low.

either ive gone too thich on the oil or the shafts are bent, had a close look at the shafts and they look straight.

weird thing is I got the same wt shock oil in the front and they arnt a problem.
 
sperera said:
gave the slash a quick test in the back last night. rear end is slightly better but still sticky down low.

either ive gone too thich on the oil or the shafts are bent, had a close look at the shafts and they look straight.

weird thing is I got the same wt shock oil in the front and they arnt a problem.
Click to expand...

Looks are decieving bud....it only takes a couple of thou to make em bind up...the only way you can tell if they are bent is to dismantle them to the bare shaft and roll them on something perfectly flat...;)
 
ran 3 lipo's through the slash yesterday at f/gully rd track, track was very busy but had heaps of fun.

first 2 lipo's temps were good but last lipo motor temp got to 101 deg c! I need to pull my finger out and start experiementing different options to bring them down.

had heps of stacks but everything was working fine and no breakages which was great.
 
yeah i know mate, i fogot to mention that I have it a good 30 min cool down between each lipo so there's no reason why it should get to that.

if I get time ill be doing a pinion change before I run it again
 
cant work it out either shane. between each battery pack I gave it 30 mins cool period, that combined with the cold melbourne day there's no way any heat would have been left over.

the only difference is I ran the last battery run down to low voltage cut off, which is set to 3.2v per cell, the other two lipo's I didnt let it get that low.
 
i say it could be from running the battery down so low and mabe dirt in the gear mesh happens to my merv some times the grit in the gear mesh puts more load on the motor witch makes more heat and try not running the batteries past 3.6v ive been told its the new 3.2v and the 3.2v was the old way of thinking now most newer factory stuff cuts out around 3.6 v p/c its ment to be better for the batteries and so on, but afew years ago every thing was set to 3.2v
 
Most of the cheaper esc's cut off point is 3.4v down to 2.6v....
Set it to 3.4 if yours doesn't have 3.6v..
3.4v is good
3.2v is alright
3.0v is risky
2.8v is couldn't give a flying fook...
2.6v is FOOKED!!!
 
might even be set to 3 come to think of it, ive seen the cells as 3.09 a couple of times using my tester.

next run im going to check temps throughout the run instead of right at the end, if there's a massive spike right at the end then I know its because of low voltage.
 
itching to give them a try, want to try and get the rwd pulling wheelies a bit more consistently, does it now but very hard to do, need to be on the road and battery needs to be full i think it needs to hit peak discharge as well.

hoping with the road wheels it doesn't need to hit peak to get the front up.
 
gave them try earlier in the week on the road out the front which is a bit on the rough side, just wheelspin, going to try something a bit smoother and see if they are any different.
 
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