The IRP Build Thread, The Fun Starts Now...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
You should try the belt drive. It wraps up in a hurry! If they ever get different gear ratios for it, it will be awesome. I ran mine in practice at the flat track nats and I don't think anything there would have come close to keeping up but there were only 2 4x4 out there so we didn't race them.
 
jtphillips23 said:
You should try the belt drive. It wraps up in a hurry! If they ever get different gear ratios for it, it will be awesome. I ran mine in practice at the flat track nats and I don't think anything there would have come close to keeping up but there were only 2 4x4 out there so we didn't race them.
Click to expand...
The manufacture has a working prototype of the multi ratio kit for the Redcats. I should have it in Jan.
 
RCDAD said:
The manufacture has a working prototype of the multi ratio kit for the Redcats. I should have it in Jan.
Click to expand...
thanks for posting that up..

i didn't know if it was ok with you to post that just yet.

keep me in mind as it comes along !
 
Inertia Racing Products said:
ok guys got an update for ya.i got the motor broken in and made a few passes, lets say short lived passes with the stock carb.

i started out pig rich, well let me back up a step, 1st thing on the stock carb the idle screw setting was a little odd, mine came backed Way off but the idle was what i consider a little high, i double checked all the linkage and the servo/radio settings since i had just changed out the servos.

even then with the idle screw backed all the way off i considered the idle too high...

no worries for my testing of the carbs performance, so back to the pig rich run.

the car acted as i had anticipated once i opened it up a couple of passes the carb loaded up heavy on the low end.

brought it in minor tweak on the low needle and back to it, better but still sluggish.

back to the bench we go, minor tweak, lean out again, this time on the bench finding the too lean point and adding 1/8 of a turn back to the fat side.

hit the road with her and still sluggish and i knew i was at the end of the line as far as going too far on the lean side, but i figured what the hell go back 1/16 turn, made no difference.

now these were all on the low side adjustment, the high was close enough for my testing, no bog , decent transition into the highs with just a trail of smoke.

i ran it about 10 mins after finding the edge on the low side and i was back to loading up heavy at idle...

bottom line the stock carb is too inconsistant for my picky a$$, as i had feared it would be.

so off the stock carb came, same for the stock insulator , gaskets , and air filter assy.

on goes the new CY Insulator with Zenoah blue gasket, new 990 carb, new inclined shreadstack and zenoah gaskets along with the HPI baja air filter assy and new Outerwears.

set the needles to 1 1/16 L and 1 1/2 H, double checked linkage and servo settings, primed the beast ( 2 pumps ) and she roared to life on the 2nd pull.

a quick idle adjustment , a few quick blips of the trigger and she was a tick on the fat side .

even being a tick fat on the low needle the throttle response difference was Substantial over the stock carb.

snatched it up off the bench and hit the street, good lord it was night and day, excellent response, very snappy in the mids and i actually had a nice feel for the throttle.

i did several hard runs on it and never once did the tune change or the thing load back up at idle after heavy acceleration passes and going back to base idle.

in the end i can say this change made a huge difference, and one thing is for sure, i will be ordering new A/B gears, the car is geared way to low, acceleration is great but it can definately stand more top end, i can only imagine what will happen when i change out the pipe ...

here are a couple of pics of the new goodies on the car

redcatnewcarb002.jpg


redcatnewcarb001.jpg
Click to expand...
Do you remember what the outside temp was when you made these adjustments? just trying to figure out if those needle settings will be close enough, as im not going to run mine with the stock carb even for break in, or would it be easier to break it in then swap out and adjust as necessary?
 
Hayes371 said:
Do you remember what the outside temp was when you made these adjustments? just trying to figure out if those needle settings will be close enough, as im not going to run mine with the stock carb even for break in, or would it be easier to break it in then swap out and adjust as necessary?
Click to expand...
i broke the motor in on the stock carb.

the outside temp was a very nice 68 degrees and humidity was very low for us, @ 45%.

trust me we only get about 10 of those days a year here, we treasure them !!
 
I hear ya! here it is low 50s, but super humid all summer and 90s then bam!! freezing, i will probably will have to richen up a hair from those settings..thanks
 
Very nice build report so far. I. Am learning a lot from all of you guys so I know the do's and don't's for when I start my XB build.
 
Hey Guys,

i got the 7075RC Motor Plate in and thought i would share the install with you.

I chose the liteweight version for my XB.

1st thing , once again Doug did a great job on another part, very nice machine work and a perfect fit..

Ok lets get started.

1st thing is to remove all the externals to get to the guts, this is pretty straight forward , just start removing the obvious components.

right side plastic guard, gear cover etc..

once you to the gears themselves i found out there is a little trick to the removal, now keep in mind i am used to the HPI baja platform, so the 4 gear set up is new to me.

i initially went about removal the same way as the baja, i used an old pinion off a baja to lock the gears for removal.

this worked great until i got to the center , double gear stack.

i quickly realized these free spin on an independent shaft.

after a few minutes of looking this quandry over i discovered that the backside of the center gear shaft will accomodate the use of an 8mm open end wrench to hold it while removeing the retaining locknut.

you know i bought a set of metric Ignition Wrenches a few years back, and i cant tell you how handy these little jewels have been. i picked them up at Sears.

anyway once all the gears are removed you will see the hex's that the gears set on on the 2 outer shafts.

loosen the grub screws and slide these off.

there were a couple of shims too, i'll get to those later in the post.

once the gears were removed its just a matter of reoving the obvious bolts that hold the stock motor plate on the car.

Now i will add this, i went ahead and loosened all the bolts under the car that looked pertanent , i didn't remove them, just loosened them up.

this made the removal and installation of the new plate much easier.

i then removed the stock plate, pay attention to the 3 tube type spacers on the clutch housing, they will fall out..Lol.

Now that the old plate is removed i decided this would be a great time to change out the stock clutch spring to my desired 8000 rpm spring, see pics..

this is pretty straight forward, you will need a piston stopper tool, a few kind words, and some patience.

be sure a pay close attention to all of the removed bolts and washers as you remove the clutch. they go back a certain way.

i also included a pic of a little trick i learned years ago, drill out the holes in the clutch shoes that the spring goes into, also go ahead and shave off the red coating on the ends of the new spring, this will save you a few cuss words when assembling the clutch back together.

go ahead and reinstall the clucth, be sure and use loctite on the 2 bolts.

now you are ready to install the new motor plate, Take Your Time when doing this.

do not force it on the front shaft and there should be no binding, if you loosed all the bolts on the bottom it will go on nice, but snug.

once its in place go ahead and double check to make sure the is no binding of the front shaft or clutch bell..

Oops forget to tell you to install the center shaft before installing the new plate.

Now once everything is in place, no binding is found, go ahead and install All of the bolts, just start them all then go back through and tighten them up.

once the plate is installed and tight, again using loctite on all metal to metal bolts, you can go ahead and tighten the loosened bolts under the chassis.

Reinstalling the gears.

a couple of things i found out real quick on mine, i swapped the A/B gears to change the ratio, no big deal..but i found on mine that the shims went back in a different place than with the stock plate and gears in stock form.

simple enough, just make sure they are all lined up before installing the lock nuts.. you may end swapping back and forth but its pretty straight forward.

one last thing on the gear install , Do Not Overtighten the lock nuts, it lock up the hears, just tighten them down and back off a bit until you get zero binding and zero play..

Side Note, if you go liteweight on the 7075RC plate you will No longer use the plastic gear cover, there are no holes to bolt the cover on...

Well thats about it, all in all a pretty simple and very nice upgrade.

feel free to ask any questions

Buddy @ IRP

redcatmotorplateinstall002.jpg


redcatmotorplateinstall003.jpg


redcatmotorplateinstall004.jpg


redcatmotorplateinstall005.jpg


[
 
now u should get the dark soul vented clutch housing for losi / baja,,, its machined for lightweight and air movement, and would look very good with the rest of the parts u have,,,,
 
Just a quicky update tonight, i'll get more pics up tomorrow with a some more details.

i just finished up the prototype rear camber links, literally , and threw them on the car.

perfect fit to this point, there may opr may not need to be a radius cut in the links for shock spring clearence. i'll get some run time on them and report back the results.

Just a quick pic i shot with my phone

20121203_194026.jpg
 
So I was just saying that I love this gear plate but I was unaware that it did not have a cover. I was just wondering what would prevent you from tossing something into the gear setup and wreaking them?
 
The gears are like meat grinders. Lots of us never ran the gear cover even with the factory plate.
 
Back
Top