Tuning questions for Vekta.5 Gas

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Ferrebee88

Well-Known Member
Messages
444
Hello again!

I recently finished my Vekta.5 build and have a few observations and questions after finally getting a few good runs in on it.

Suspension: I have the suspension set to factory settings. The rear end kicks up a bit easy and send this thing cartwheeling. I’m not sure whether it would be better to adjust the preload to make it stiffer or thicken the shock oil/change out pistons. It looks like I will need to replace the rod ends on the shocks as they are already stretched out.

Tuned pipe: Is this amount of rust from sitting for a month after running normal? Is it preventable? Should I even bother cleaning it off?
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Observations: Check the screws after every run… I just realized I lost a couple screws that are holding the gas tank on… it dropped down and the driveshaft was rubbing on it and almost ate a hole through. I found an aluminum transmission cover, so I’ll give that a try. The lexan on cracked and broke off on the first run. The truck is fast and super fun to drive. There are some minor issues so far, but nothing some preventative maintenance cannot handle.

Engine: This ESP 34cc packs some power. After a few cartwheels it started bogging down and stopping, so hopefully it just flooded a bit or something. I believe the spark plug is the correct color. Maybe needs just a little richer?
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Try a stiffer shock, thicker oil or piston with less or smaller holes, more preload will just raise it up, I'd try a bit richer but it does look tanned. I'm jealous you got to run yours but I only have myself to blame for not finishing mine yet. I also got an esp 34cc
 
I will definitely do the wd-40 trick. I do believe I will switch to red lock tight in a couple places too. Time to start taking it apart and checking everything. Anything recommended while I have it torn apart?
 
Can't say I've had many issues with screws backing out on my vekta, but it's the least ran as well. The ticket to loctite is making sure all the bolts and nuts have been decreased. Even new there is mill oil/protectant to keep them from rusting. Quick spray with brake clean is usually enough and helps the loctite adhear better to the threads.
 
Can't say I've had many issues with screws backing out on my vekta, but it's the least ran as well. The ticket to loctite is making sure all the bolts and nuts have been decreased. Even new there is mill oil/protectant to keep them from rusting. Quick spray with brake clean is usually enough and helps the loctite adhear better to the threads.
I've checked the thing all over and the only metal to metal screws that backed out were the ones on the cross bars. I guess I'll put red loctite on those. The screw that goes through the tuned pipe bracket and into the gas tank mount I think got pushed out when the Vekta was flipping end over end. Looks like the end of the pipe hit the ground, bent the bracket a little, and pulled the screw out of the threads. It also looks like my uppper plastic rod ends are toast already too. I'm just going to get the billet HD rear upper heim joint set and never worry about it. I pulled up my cart on DDM and it somehow had a Losi 5T 2.0 in it... Tempted to just "forget" to take it out. LOL
 
I've checked the thing all over and the only metal to metal screws that backed out were the ones on the cross bars. I guess I'll put red loctite on those. The screw that goes through the tuned pipe bracket and into the gas tank mount I think got pushed out when the Vekta was flipping end over end. Looks like the end of the pipe hit the ground, bent the bracket a little, and pulled the screw out of the threads. It also looks like my uppper plastic rod ends are toast already too. I'm just going to get the billet HD rear upper heim joint set and never worry about it. I pulled up my cart on DDM and it somehow had a Losi 5T 2.0 in it... Tempted to just "forget" to take it out. LOL
I won't lie, I like my 5ive t better then my vekta..
 
Nice!!! I can almost see it flipping as I look at mine now, good info on cleaning the bolts before, I didn't do that but did put blue loctite, thinking of redoing some now , I'll take em out and clean them on the bench brush/grinder and maybe burn off the first coat to be sure to get to metal, red is for sure stronger but still needs to stick to metal for best results....maybe I'll end up redoing alot of the bolts. Thanks for the tip!!! @#%&&*@! I'd rather that then loose parts and need new parts and or screws.
You're making me jealous again, how did you get that driveshaft? Put a bunch of red loctite then shrink tube on my stock one cause it's never in stock...and the gas tank too! So I hope I never need that either, but happy to hear about ripping it up even there was a bit of carnage, I do soo much more wrenching than running my machines....isn't working on them the best part....to make it better, faster, stronger...then when it doesn't break anymore we get another?
 
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Nice!!! I can almost see it flipping as I look at mine now, good info on cleaning the bolts before, I didn't do that but did put blue loctite, thinking of redoing some now , I'll take em out and clean them on the bench brush/grinder and maybe burn off the first coat to be sure to get to metal, red is for sure stronger but still needs to stick to metal for best results....maybe I'll end up redoing alot of the bolts. Thanks for the tip!!! @#%&&*@! I'd rather that then loose parts and need new parts and or screws.
You're making me jealous again, how did you get that driveshaft? Put a bunch of red loctite then shrink tube on my stock one cause it's never in stock...and the gas tank too! So I hope I never need that either, but happy to hear about ripping it up even there was a bit of carnage, I do soo much more wrenching than running my machines....isn't working on them the best part....to make it better, faster, stronger...then when it doesn't break anymore we get another?
I built this at the first of the year, so I picked up the driveshaft around January.
 
Got mine in March or April and been dragging out the build and haven't let myself firing it up for endless new reasons so far. As long as I can find something to fix for it to be better, mosty want to make a dirt track! cause this thing was made to run wild and not go back and forth on the driveway or the lawn! I got monster trucks, crawlers, and on road cars for that.
I won't lie, I like my 5ive t better then my vekta..
Shhhhh, don't let me here that, I don't have a 5t. It's not on my wish list even! Now I'm gonna need to test that. Lol
 
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To be fair both good rigs, I just find the vekta to be more dopic then the 5ive t. The vekta jumps better though. Give and take I guess.
Also, look on face book for parts. If they are still sending the version of drive shaft mine came with, it's garbage and the upgrade one is the way to go.
 
I've noticed all my losi's regardless of size or platform seem to handle better and take to racing better, that was my thoughts for getting the vekta, more wild and challenging to control giving more thrills during open bashing sessions. I did some racing but just to be with others that have rc's
 
Prepping Work From Home GIF by 60 Second Docs


My place is still more like this, just moved in and haven't got my hanging up stuff and shelves yet, too busy wrenching!
Ok, some actual shots from a couple months ago, theres more places overflowing, I'll post the after shots when I get it looking better...as soon as I find the floor again I can get started
 

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I am thinking about getting the rear spare tire carrier. Do you think the extra weight of a full spare on the rear might make it less willing to send that rear end straight up in the air when I hit a rough spot. Side to side is good. It’s just when you hit a bump that brings your front tire off the ground a bit and as soon as your rear hits it the back end bounces straight up in the air and the cartwheeling follows.
 
Oh dear$$$, I haven't even tried mine yet and I've seen other rigs have this issue... have you tried a heavier weight shock oil? The stock oil is quite thin, not sure what guys that have these have done. Most of the time I just drive a rig with that issue so that I'm hard on the gas as I come to jumps. That of course doesn't help if your running wide open allready. Curious to see how this turns out. You should be able to double the viscosity of the shock fluid without breaking pistons.
 
Oh dear$$$, I haven't even tried mine yet and I've seen other rigs have this issue... have you tried a heavier weight shock oil? The stock oil is quite thin, not sure what guys that have these have done. Most of the time I just drive a rig with that issue so that I'm hard on the gas as I come to jumps. That of course doesn't help if you’re running wide open allready. Curious to see how this turns out. You should be able to double the viscosity of the shock fluid without breaking pistons.
I will try thicker shock oil first when I get the chance. It’s a solid rear axle thing. Soft suspension to go over the rough sections, but you hit that one spot just right it compresses too much and kicks it up. Nature of the beast
 
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