Vekta 5 common problems

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one2boost

one2boost

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I'm looking for info on the Vekta.5, what are some common problems with it. Also, has Kraken addressed the problem with a design change in production of current kits.

I've tried searching via google, and found these problems:

Rear shocks pop off top mount - seen a few aftermarket solutions along with home made stuff.

Rear lower end links breaking - many aftermarket companies offer metal parts.
 
A guy I race with has been braking rims so he got ddm alloy rims and started braking stub axles. He also got IRP upper rear links and the alloy mount. Seems like he has also replaced clutch bell bearings a few times.
 
IMG_0469.webp
one2boost said:
I'm looking for info on the Vekta.5, what are some common problems with it. Also, has Kraken addressed the problem with a design change in production of current kits.

I've tried searching via google, and found these problems:

Rear shocks pop off top mount - seen a few aftermarket solutions along with home made stuff.

Rear lower end links breaking - many aftermarket companies offer metal parts.
Click to expand...

I would avoid purchasing Jofer RC Solid Wheel Nuts they do not tighten down on the wheels.
I recently had have wheels come off just light bashing in grass with no jumps.
William E. Burrows Jr.
AKA: 5th scale whisper
 
Man where do I start, the Vekta.5 has so much potential but it seems Kraken released it and than said oh well and never fixed any of their issues. First off the since day one they have had shock issues such as with big jumps the shock popping off, second issue with the shock which I experienced yesterday was that the bottom cap of the shocks unscrew themselves which than dumps the fluid all everywhere. I put outerwears on my shocks Day 1 of owning after seeing fluid everywhere I knew what happened. Drug the thing home and remove all the rest 3 of the 4 were completely off but only 1 had the bottom piece fall out and dump fluid.

For the shocks popping loose a few companies make a kit which fixes this issue and low and behold Kraken fixed it with their new truck.

Mine came with several NOT even tighten flush screw and a few that were beyond tight. The Transmission plate have huge issues with bearings not staying in place that you have to use Loctite 638 which yet again this issue has been fixed with the new truck also.

Is the truck super cool looking.....well duh look at it hahaha had I known all the issues still weren't being resolved since day 1 I would have skipped this truck. It brings me more frustration than any other RC i have ever owned.
 
Iceman2733 said:
Man where do I start, the Vekta.5 has so much potential but it seems Kraken released it and than said oh well and never fixed any of their issues. First off the since day one they have had shock issues such as with big jumps the shock popping off, second issue with the shock which I experienced yesterday was that the bottom cap of the shocks unscrew themselves which than dumps the fluid all everywhere. I put outerwears on my shocks Day 1 of owning after seeing fluid everywhere I knew what happened. Drug the thing home and remove all the rest 3 of the 4 were completely off but only 1 had the bottom piece fall out and dump fluid.

For the shocks popping loose a few companies make a kit which fixes this issue and low and behold Kraken fixed it with their new truck.

Mine came with several NOT even tighten flush screw and a few that were beyond tight. The Transmission plate have huge issues with bearings not staying in place that you have to use Loctite 638 which yet again this issue has been fixed with the new truck also.

Is the truck super cool looking.....well duh look at it hahaha had I known all the issues still weren't being resolved since day 1 I would have skipped this truck. It brings me more frustration than any other RC i have ever owned.
Click to expand...

Dear @Iceman2733,
This is how I see it. I have gone through two (2) Losi 5ive-T's, I updated all the weak parts with high end parts even those have failed down the road. These vehicles are high performance in turn means high maintenance.
Thats part of the hobby, in the 80's 1/8 scale off road used chain drives you could only get one run without all kinds of failures.
I though after all these years 5th scale would be problem free, not the case.
Love it or leave it.
Best Regards,
William E. Burrows Jr.
AKA: 5th scale whisper

IMG_0298.webp
 
@William E Burrows Jr I agree completely. It doesn't however mean that you should put up with shoddy construction. I think the wildfire popularity of the Vekta caught Kraken with their pants down and corners were cut at times to keep up with demand. Some report that their truck is though enough to withstand an impact with a brick wall and others complain that the fiddlesticking thing is made from Japanese folding paper. The QA seems to be all over the place with it unlike say, Losi's 5th scale which may have a lemon here and there but which generally you can take their build quality to the bank. At any rate if you don't like tinkering with stuff 5th scale regardless of powersource is not for you, is for certain :)
 
Dear Thrasher,
In my younger days I was a machinist.
Just comparing the diameter of the parts to the Losi 5ive-T is no contest.
I have fully upgraded the 5-T and still there is no contest.
The best way to appreciate the Kraken Vekta 5 is to build it from the ground up and upgrade parts as you go.
If you want quality you have to pay for it.
Productions models cars, motorcycles you name it cannot compete to custom.
It's just how it is.
Best Regards,
William E. Burrow Jr.
AKA: Have not crashed in a while.
All Good.
 

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William E Burrows Jr said:
View attachment 45466

I would avoid purchasing Jofer RC Solid Wheel Nuts they do not tighten down on the wheels.
I recently had have wheels come off just light bashing in grass with no jumps.
William E. Burrows Jr.
AKA: 5th scale whisper
Click to expand...
just make sure every thing is tite i ran with a buddy n my trailing arm fell off 15 mins into break in my throttle servo went lost my set screws in rear drive shaft but found them all just go threw n loc tite evry thing b for a good bashing session
 
the naked gun facepalm GIF
 
Things I can think of:
Once you get the truck, pull the entire thing apart back to kit form. You can do it in 3 sections to make it easier. Rear axle - chassis - front.

1 - Rear axle outer hub bearings and pinion bearing may need Loctite 641 retaining compound put on the bearings to stop them spinning in the housing and wrecking the housing/axle.
2- Remove the dust shield from EVERY bearing and check for proper lubrication. I have found many that were bone dry.
3 - Check the clutch-bell spins without any wobble. If it has wobble, remove the split washer and replace with a normal washer of the same dimensions can help. (you may never get it perfect, but use commom sense)
4 - Put small springs between the brake pads. The brakes WILL jam up without them.
5 - Make sure EVERY metal to metal screw is threadlocked. (I just use Blue as my cars get pulled apart fairly regular) pay attention to the front caster blocks! they like to come loose there.
6 - Make sure the top/bottom shock caps are on tight. A single wrap of thread tape can help if needed.
7 - Steering bell-crank has a fair bit of up/down slop in it. Shim it out and it will improve steering response.
8 - Make sure the pinion output yoke on the rear axle is at the same angle as the output on the transmission (make both parallel) also make sure both U's match in orientation or you will get binding issues on the prop-shaft and probably break it.
9 - Put 1" diameter shrink tube around drive yokes from transmission and front pinion output, to contain the threaded pin if it backs out.
10 - When installing the engine, tighten the x3 clutch housing bolts first, then check that there is ZERO gap between the chassis and the engine block where the x2 rear engine bolts go into. If there is gap and you tighten them x2 bolts down it will screw up the alignment and put stress on the engine block/clutch/transmission ect. If there is a gap it must be shimmed out!
11 - Put limit straps on rear axle. Might sound gimmicky, but that axle/wheels has some weight in it! and it's all handing off the piston in The shock when fully extended. Limit straps will help keep your shocks happy. Even a shoelace is better than nothing. Of course actually set the limit strap up correctly, not just have it dangling there for looks.

That is the main stuff I can think of.
The Vekta is a AWSOME truck once you get all the small details sorted out. If you don't take the time to build it properly it will just rip itself apart.
Kraken design really cool cars and is the only brand I buy 1/5 scales from. That being said, I feel Kraken would do better offering all their models as kits as in my experience they need attention to detail when building them, or they become a pain in the a$$ fast.
As another member metioned, Krakens are high performmance models and as such require proper maintnance and attention ot detail.
 
Last edited:
Jetjoe14 said:
Things I can think of:
Once you get the truck, pull the entire thing apart back to kit form. You can do it in 3 sections to make it easier. Rear axle - chassis - front.

1 - Rear axle outer hub bearings and pinion bearing may need Loctite 641 retaining compound put on the bearings to stop them spinning in the housing and wrecking the housing/axle.
2- Remove the dust shield from EVERY bearing and check for proper lubrication. I have found many that were bone dry.
3 - Check the clutch-bell spins without any wobble. If it has wobble, remove the split washer and replace with a normal washer of the same dimensions can help. (you may never get it perfect, but use commom sense)
4 - Put small springs between the brake pads. The brakes WILL jam up without them.
5 - Make sure EVERY metal to metal screw is threadlocked. (I just use Blue as my cars get pulled apart fairly regular) pay attention to the front caster blocks! they like to come loose there.
6 - Make sure the top/bottom shock caps are on tight. A single wrap of thread tape can help if needed.
7 - Steering bell-crank has a fair bit of up/down slop in it. Shim it out and it will improve steering response.
8 - Make sure the pinion output yoke on the rear axle is at the same angle as the output on the transmission (make both parallel) also make sure both U's match in orientation or you will get binding issues on the prop-shaft and probably break it.
9 - Put 1" diameter shrink tube around drive yokes from transmission and front pinion output, to contain the threaded pin if it backs out.
10 - When installing the engine, tighten the x3 clutch housing bolts first, then check that there is ZERO gap between the chassis and the engine block where the x2 rear engine bolts go into. If there is gap and you tighten them x2 bolts down it will screw up the alignment and put stress on the engine block/clutch/transmission ect. If there is a gap it must be shimmed out!

That is the main stuff I can think of.
The Vekta is a AWSOME truck once you get all the small details sorted out. If you don't take the time to build it properly it will just rip itself apart.
Kraken design really cool cars and is the only brand I buy 1/5 scales from. That being said, I feel Kraken would do better offering all their models as kits as in my experience they need attention to detail when building them, or they become a pain in the a$$ fast.
As another member metioned, Krakens are high performmance models and as such require proper maintnance and attention ot detail.
Click to expand...
Very good advice.
 
wow, I started this thread over 8 years ago. Since then, I have picked up another Vekta5 and have another Vekta5 chassis build on the stand.
 
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