Want a Losi 5iveT 2.0 V2 but tired of waiting - other recommendations?

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Rep732 said:
Did you try like I said? You have to do 2 things at once. Hold bind button on reciever and turn the truck on while holding the bind button and you should see the led start to flash
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Yep, thats exactly how I am doing it. Its the exact procedure that I use to bind the other RX which works perfectly, that I took from another vehicle. I hold down the bind button and then turn on the rig, but nothing. No lights, not anything.
 
Any channel with the battery plugged into it will power on the reciever. Guess you got a bad one look at it like this your odds of getting what you need just got better and yes call them you'll get it sorted faster
 
Must have gotten a bad one. The LED lights also did not work. I checked the voltage to the lights and when the rig is on the lights are getting power. Great quality control so far.... I took the lights out and you could see where one of the solder connections was bad. I re-soldered and still no go with the lights even with verified voltage to them.

I assume my 3 channel RX that does work will also work with the Killer Bee kill switch when it arrives on thursday? The RX has Throttle, Steering, AUX, and Battery ports.
RcJunkie13 said:
Just call, get put on callback (hold is always too long), they may or may not ask for proof (prob not on this case) they will ask for your address and send the part 👍 just went thought it today
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FYI this is the receiver I am currently using until I get a replacment.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...MI1YfgiLq-8QIVJm1vBB0CSQ6IEAAYASAAEgK1HvD_BwE


It has gas mode failsafe which I have setup. In the event that you lose signal it goes full brakes. Is there really a reason why a different kill switch would be needed like the Killer Bee? I guess in the event that you lose battery power?
 
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No junkie id rather a mechanical failure over an electronic glitch or malfunction that caused a runaway.... an example of a mechanical failure would be the engine blowing up
 
Or a carb sticking or linkage bending or servo gear stripping would all count as mechanical, but yeah electronic glitch would be most likely.
Just trying to open his eyes to stuff a failsafe sure can’t save u from
 
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I got my rig all setup with the Killer Bee switch. I just want to make sure its functioning properly. I have it set up on the Aux channel and I can kill the motor with my Tx. When else should I be able to get the motor to turn off? I typically like to test things out to make sure they are working properly. I assume if I turned off the car to simulate a battery failure it would shut the car off also? I tried turning off the radio system and it was still running but the RX did go into failsafe and apply full brake like its suppose to.
 
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You have to bind the system with the aux button held in for the kill switch as you bind. I have mine set for full brake and kill if the signal is lost. Need help let me know I can walk you through it
 
Rep732 said:
You have to bind the system with the aux button held in for the kill switch as you bind. I have mine set for full brake and kill if the signal is lost. Need help let me know I can walk you through it
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Oh that makes sense. So that is setting failsafe to be full brake and apply Aux....
 
So the 4 bolts that hold the body on from the bottom. Fully necessary? I ran around my property yesterday and it was after a rain. It wasa blast but obviously the truck was much and full of grass. I power washed everything (built in electric power washer in my garage). If all I had to do is remove the 4 clips holding the body on it would be a lot easier than also having to remove 4 bolts.


Also, I have been thinging of removing the bodies rear 1/4 panels and running without them. Any problems doing that? Would be a lot easier to clean up.
 
The 4 bolts no. There's aluminum inserts in the body remove them and keep them they cost about 18 bucks if you lose those.

And WHOA dude! Do not power wash the truck! You may think its harmless now but down the road it will show its head in the form of blown electronics and blown bearings. Use an air compressor
 
Rep732 said:
The 4 bolts no. There's aluminum inserts in the body remove them and keep them they cost about 18 bucks if you lose those.

And WHOA dude! Do not power wash the truck! You may think its harmless now but down the road it will show its head in the form of blown electronics and blown bearings. Use an air compressor
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Maybe, but dowsing it with WD40 should prevent any of that. I am not completely dowsing, and direct the spray away from electronics. All the electronics are encased in semi-waterproof enclosures, and I am not using full blast or even close in proximity.
 
Went out to a big field and had a really good rip. Do the main drive shafts coming of the clutch get hot to the touch? I assume that’s normal. Is it heat transfer from the disk brakes?
 
Yes its normal and no its not heat transfer of the brakes. Whats happening is sliding friction due to the drivetrain angle on the front shaft. Watch the front dog bone and as it rotates its sliding in the slot of the drive cup. Give it some time that pin will turn colors from the heat20200926_145411.jpg
 
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