Why is my break in taking so long
- Thread starter Rcwrecker
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Technically break in of an engine is as long as you make it. Let it warm up and send it, as long as your tune is good there should be zero issues.
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I don’t break in my engines. I just try not to abuse it for the first tank.
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What does this mean "abuse it" lol
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... at this rate your never gunna be off your break in period.
Mick Boomer
Well-Known Member
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Quick question. Do you break in you weed eater or chainsaws? The answer is no. Run it bud. Don’t over think it. Not like its a 10,000 motocross engine. Even those don’t get run very little if at all.
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Just giver.
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Wide open throttle donuts or whatever you crazy kids do. I’ll race a brand new engine out of the box. I’ve broken in engines before and have ran them without break in and ultimately the engine does what it does regardless. Don’t overthink it just run the damn thing
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Very good advise in here guys 
.... at the end of the day a 2 stroke is a roll of the dice and at any point in you running the engine it can go south very fast. Too many variables that can cause the engine to blow and by the time you realize there's an issue its too late.... ill post up a thread of my most recent misfortune, you guys don't want to miss it.
.... at the end of the day a 2 stroke is a roll of the dice and at any point in you running the engine it can go south very fast. Too many variables that can cause the engine to blow and by the time you realize there's an issue its too late.... ill post up a thread of my most recent misfortune, you guys don't want to miss it.
what or how are you breaking it in fella?
4 30 min sessions on less than one tank is a long time,
as above with what everyone else says, send it, or do a tank of slower running without wide open throttle then send it,
everyones different in how they treat a new engine, but don't be over cautious
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A piston ring is a piston ring at the end of the day. Don't let the companies that have zero to do with designing and making an engine tell you how to break in an engine. At the end of the day there's absolutely a way for a knowledgeable individual to tell you if you caused an engine to blow up or not. These companies that come out with crazy ways to break engines in are only making you jump through hopes that they created to get themselves further away from liability and having to replace your engine.....
The right way to do it is let the engine warm up and give the engine short loaded bursts without letting the engine get too hot. Only loaded engines can seat the piston rings, idling and putting around does not break engines in, and funny i was just told my piston didn't fully break in, if your piston is getting scuffs or contact marks there is a clearance issue going on and that person don't know what their talking about! The engine can only run in the correct environment and anything less than that it will tell you by sound or just straight blowing up.
The right way to do it is let the engine warm up and give the engine short loaded bursts without letting the engine get too hot. Only loaded engines can seat the piston rings, idling and putting around does not break engines in, and funny i was just told my piston didn't fully break in, if your piston is getting scuffs or contact marks there is a clearance issue going on and that person don't know what their talking about! The engine can only run in the correct environment and anything less than that it will tell you by sound or just straight blowing up.
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@Rcwrecker have fun!
- Thread starter
- #14
We'll see lol , was being cautious because it's a rovan 32cc ,spose blowing it is a good excuse to get a proper engine.
Anyone any suggestions for a sub £500 engine that'll drop right into a rr5 max pro? From UK .can go higher but every time I do seems be a case or(it's only a wee bit more(in increments of £200 lol)
Anyone any suggestions for a sub £500 engine that'll drop right into a rr5 max pro? From UK .can go higher but every time I do seems be a case or(it's only a wee bit more(in increments of £200 lol)
Rep732 is absolutely correct
this running in an engine is a left over idea from 50 yrs ago.
with todays cylinder finnishes And ring design there is no reason not to send it.
1. run correct fuel oil ratio
2. warm the engine,
3. from idle, flatten it till 3/4 rpm’s then back off to idle
do that 3 or 4 times and your done.
I have had very expensive (to me that is) engines and when put on the engine Dino, they start, check timing, check for leaks, then 3 pulls under load and then it’s go for it and start tuning
this running in an engine is a left over idea from 50 yrs ago.
with todays cylinder finnishes And ring design there is no reason not to send it.
1. run correct fuel oil ratio
2. warm the engine,
3. from idle, flatten it till 3/4 rpm’s then back off to idle
do that 3 or 4 times and your done.
I have had very expensive (to me that is) engines and when put on the engine Dino, they start, check timing, check for leaks, then 3 pulls under load and then it’s go for it and start tuning
- Thread starter
- #16