Winter thread... clean and fix

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Just an fyi, I had to drill mine out so the choke butterfly wouldnt hit it, then ended up swapping it out for a different set up.
You mean the actual butterfly valve interfered? or the outside lever?
How did you drill it out?
 
On the shock ends, are you sure it isn't your beadlock hardware hitting the end when it bottoms out and destroying the plastic.ends? It has happened to me, I'd check that out. If it is, you should consider axle extenders to prevent that.
1” extender (half an inch per side) doesn’t prevent that, just relocate the problem. at least for me
(with 5sc stock wheels)
F1B74EC5-4887-4492-97DD-5AD606FEC555.webpE06AF61C-65D6-4A33-BFF5-47B345F9AEAB.webp
 
This is exactly what happened on mine...
Normally we just bash so we are going all which ways...
My failure happened after a long run where we set up cones and were doing a big round laps... outside wheel had the failure and I see the damage on the rim..
Just got my box of parts from ddm today. Will try the wheel offsets and RPM arms which have a slightly different geometry to prevent this problem. Will see what happens in the spring...
Currently all tore down:
IMG_20201130_151758.webpFront end was recently done... new RPM arms and RPM bumper... just installed today a new shock tower:
IMG_20201130_154125.webp
 
Made some more progress last night..
I got most of the car back together. Also made a mod on the main frame... glued in some panels to cover the openings.
IMG_20201201_121225.webp
New fuel lines and brass fittings... never realized my fuel filter was not doing much ?
IMG_20201130_182027.webp
IMG_20201201_121150.webp
New rear a arms and Vertigo hub extenders.
IMG_20201201_121137.webp
IMG_20201201_121127.webp
Did a dry fit... the wheels are nowhere near the shock mounts now... maybe didn't need the hub extenders ?

Just have to put new springs on my rear shocks and get the pipe and radio box back in... she will be ready for spring.

I also need some m6x14mm for the rear frame to main frame attachment. Apparently I lost 2 of the 4 on my last bash... the two remaining were not very tight either... gotta check those screws everytime you go out.
 
For those wondering...
The RPM a-arms have been made to avoid the wheels grinding into your shocks...
The plastic is thicker around the mount point, and the wheel is moved slightly forward to avoid contact in that area...
Here is a comparison, one side with stock hub and the other with vertigo mount, full compression
IMG_20201202_143516.webp
IMG_20201202_143239.webp
IMG_20201202_143254.webp

I think you could get away with no hub extenders , but may as well use them if you ordered them ?
 
I bet there is a ton of play in the bearing carrier/ hub and the inner bead has eaten the lower arm
yes, there was plenty of play in the bearing (replaced) and in the plastic carrier bearing seat too... mainly in the outer one. so I've glued the new bearing with CA into the seat.
the other suspicious item is too soft rear springs, which allow too much body roll.... the hub end of the lower arm raises towards the flexing wheels and causing it to wear as shown on the pic above. so combination of more things..
(my arms are also RPM ones)

good that it seems figured now.. (y)
 
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