Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
You are missing alot here lol. The head and jug are seperate, new head and old. The thing is, the new head slips 2mm into the bore vs the original head didn't. It slips in becuase the original crank meant for the head was a 39.2mm crank, I have a 39.7 crank, this wasn't Gunna be a problem with the old head as it didn't slip in (as I've said). I need to space the head up 2mm so zero that out (won't lose any compression), then space the just .7mm to give me .7mm squish (what I'm supposed to run). I'm tryna make the spacer out of copper but I can only find 1mm thick copper for a reasonable price (2mm for some reason is rediculloudly expensive), so I was asking if I can double stack 1mm copper spacers for space the head up, or just get 2mm aluminum and do that.So I thought the head and the jug were separate on your engine. Is the new head you bought part of the jug now. Where's the pics of the problem? The head shouldn't hit the crank, the jug on the other hand yup. If you make a spacer the way your talking your going to lose your compression aren't you? Raising the jug and head up 2mm is going to create more volume above the piston dome. Or am I missing something here?
You are missing alot here lol. The head and jug are seperate, new head and old. The thing is, the new head slips 2mm into the bore vs the original head didn't. It slips in becuase the original crank meant for the head was a 39.2mm crank, I have a 39.7 crank, this wasn't Gunna be a problem with the old head as it didn't slip in (as I've said). I need to space the head up 2mm so zero that out (won't lose any compression), then space the just .7mm to give me .7mm squish (what I'm supposed to run). I'm tryna make the spacer out of copper but I can only find 1mm thick copper for a reasonable price (2mm for some reason is rediculloudly expensive), so I was asking if I can double stack 1mm copper spacers for space the head up, or just get 2mm aluminum and do that.
Piston will hit the head my bad. HereSo where are the pictures . You kept saying the head would hit the crank. That's not possible. The jug is in between the 2 parts . Or do you mean the piston will hit the head?
Gunnna mess with the decompression valve mountain hole, literally the only reason I bought this head.So why not take it to a shop and have the lip milled off?
Alx made their own head for my engine, I don't have theirs and I have this and I need a spacer and I don't know what to make it out of is my problem. Copper is an option but I'll be double stacking (potential issue), or soft aluminum (not sure if I can use this tho)Some levity.
Ok soo.. Z is that representative of your your problem?.
Only penetrates 2mm?.
Hmm..
Fortunately I don't share your pain.
Ok back to helping to solve As penetration problem with a hole.
-...........
Where did your engine orig come from. I mean wouldn't the orig manufacturers have made gaskets to fit that cylinder?.
Maybe a cycle shop may have some stuff or ideas on best way to seal your engine. Maybe they can make one cheap for you.
Just tossing it out there.
How's that ? You didn't show a picture of that . Pretend with me here that we aren't in the room with you and we can't see the parts. Oh wait we aren't in the room with you ya bloody git.Gunnna mess with the decompression valve mountain hole, literally the only reason I bought this head.
Dome isn't removable. No idea how.im Gunna.seal it other than copper is has good sealing characteristics, maybe copper head gasket spray??Well that's not a lip , that's the dome of the head . Now I understand. If you make a 2mm copper gasket,how are you planning on sealing it against the head? High temp rtv won't cut it to seal it. You're going to need a 2mm gasket with o-ring goove on the side that goes against the jug to seal it.
Do you know if the dome is replaceable in the head? Wondering if it can be removed and milled on the back side of it and reinstalled back into the head.
You sure? the dome piece looks like there is a seam at the head where they meet. Or is it an optical illusionDome isn't removable. No idea how.im Gunna.seal it other than copper is has good sealing characteristics, maybe copper head gasket spray??
It's an optical illusion.You sure? the dome piece looks like there is a seam at the head where they meet. Or is it an optical illusion
Stop feking around? and buy the alx head ?and be done with it??Alx made their own head for my engine, I don't have theirs
Already blew $60 on this head, not about to spend even more damn time/money on this. There's other poop I need to buy, like head gasket spray, oil, gas, a pull start, all equal more $$$. It's not like I bought this head and I knew it potruded,I wouldn't have if I had known, there was no way of knowing, unless I asked which I didn't cuz I didn't even know they made heads like this. I'm not trying to to spend another feking year on this thing, I'm trying to get it running ish and see weather it sucks ass still or is something I want to keep going with. Also I'm not tryna sound like a cheap ass here, ? I'm not made of money.Stop feking around? and buy the alx head ?and be done with it??
Just save your $$
Gotta spend $$$ to play ?? ? and a $60 flop hurts but it's not the end of the world.Already blew $60 on this head, not about to spend even more damn time/money on this.
You are right. It probably wouldn't be a permanent solution, it is just to make it through break in. That's as long as I need to decide if I want to keep going with this motor or not. If I keep it, I'll get the ALX head or machine the Athena head.I'm inclined to agree here. Put that head on ebay and get a machine shop to mill out your old one and install a decomp valve. You'd be surprised at the number of machine shops that would do that work for super cheap. Just tell them it's for a school project.
I think you'll be chasing bad money with good money trying to make yet another part that doesn't fit work.
I know you're gonna do what you want, and that you're frustrated. But just take a step back and think of how nice it will be to have your motor built up without any other band-aid solutions. If you keep scrapping things together, you'll never be able to trust that motor. So in the long run, getting the head done right will make the overall experience more enjoyable, and less ulcer inducing.
Too many of those with this project lol. First 3 ignition systems, wrong crank, wrong cylinder,Gotta spend $$$ to play ?? ? and a $60 flop hurts but it's not the end of the world.
We have all made purchase that flop at some stage?? if you try and cheap out it will fek you over in the end as you know........sorry bud?
Register and gain access to Discussions, Reviews, Tech Tips, How to Articles, and much more - on the largest Large Scale RC community for RC enthusiasts that covers all aspects of the Large Scale RC!
Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.