well it started snowing out so i decided to continue with some of the mods today.
Trailer Trash Trixie decided she would help work on the bike as the driver is still all split up over being bought from the hobby shop
That Trixie is shuch white trash.
heres Trix and I getting to the stock gyro setup
took it apart in groups so to speak. Removed all the weights, weight retention rings and the 4 bolts. still quite heavy i think.
Blurb: after getting it back together, I tried it out just by holding it, spinning up the gyro and moving the bike around by hand. I did this before also. their is a noticable differance in the gyro effect. but its not HUGE. my first thoght after tring it with the weights out, was this things giong to be almost too heavy still, unless the terrain is really fluffy. So last night around 3am when it was done, i thought, hmm Need to get ahold of John and see if he can make up a light weight one, or mod the stock one around the top to shead some weight off.
low and behold, i come in this afternoon for a looksee, and find that John (Pilot John) has just posted a thread on a new lightened gyro for those interested in a lighter setup. WAY TO GO John. thats what I call Being on the Ball. lol
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1186827
Cant wait to try this bad boy out.
i cleaned out the inside and out side of the rear wheel, and got rid of the mess that was their in the form of hella amounts of oil.
when putting it back together, i used just a smidge of grease on the tri gear setup.
barely enough to say their is any there. may end up being a mess, but thought i may help, we ll see i guess.
Man she is SUCH a flirt, even when wrenching. Gotta love a HUSSY.
ya shes pure trailer trash alright!
form others posts, i decided to tape the rear tire to help stop any balloning that may occur. again, not sure if this will help or hurt. i guess we ll see on this also
She said she thought she say an oil leak. but i think its just the voyer in here. She does love being the center of attention.
On to the rear mono shock.
i understand its not too bad, but not the greatest. i hear alot of people using a Revo shock. and some use the integy revo shock. I HATE Integy and WILL NOT SUPPORT THEM. its the last time you ll see their crap parts mentioned in my thread, and i wont use them period.
So with that said and out of the way, i looked at some immediate options. don't have much on hand, but have a couple pieces that i think may be the saving grace for the stock setup. I see DTX has a harder rear spring i ll probably "Spring for" when the upgraded forks are availalbe. (BTW< if anyone has a set of forks, front knuckles, front support and the rear swing arm available here stateside they want to get rid of, im interested. PM me your thoughts.)
so i found this lil shock body diaphram. i think these are left over from my tmass days (before i knew how crappy intecrap was).
so i opened up the top cap, and checked it over. not to bad, pretty much full, and seemingly ok, so i cleaned up the diaphram and installed it. perfect setup. it filled up the shock body, with no air in it at all, and i put the cap back on and snugged it up pretty well. couldnt really feel any differance, but im sure it will help with the leaky caps people have experienced.
i reinstalled the rear shock, and once together, it still felt somewhat Soft for rear suspension. so a bit more looking around. this time i came up with an Axial Shock spacer. the thick one. its about 2 to 2.5 times thicker than the stock DTX spring spacer. It was quite a female dog to get installed, but it went. after i had it in, the rear suspension felt more stiff, but a bit more responsive. the airless shock body made a pretty noticable differance. still has good dampening, but firm and steady rebound.
On to the front shocks.
did what a few of you guys did.
i also hated that clunking noise as the internal shock limiters hit the topand bottom shock caps. seen where Dave used some foam. so a bit more looking around and i found this pipe insulation i have. its the open cell foam. so i cut a few pieces of it into a couple small balls of foam, 4 to be exact. then while assembling the front shocks i added the to the top and bottom of the internal springs. only clunk now is the one you get when the front shocks fully extend. I also used some grease here to provide a bit of dampening until the upgraded hydro shocks are available.
removed them one at a time
open cell pipe foam used for noise dampeners
foam ball installed at one end
dip other end of spring into grease and smear it around the spring from top to bottom. i may of got just a bit too much grease on this one.
insert back into shock body.
add 2nd foam ball, then cap it up
repeat on other side
couple pics showing suspension travel limits.
Full extension
full compression
with my hand in there, it kind of gives you a fell for the size of the bike.
another issue is the rear tire hitting the pipe. so instead of grinding on the pipe, i decided to go another route. so some more looking around.
found 2 small spacers from some other old shocks, and one rubber servo grommet. here is that result
first mount
pic showing gap between tire and pipe.
i then backed out the screws just a smidge more to this point and gap.
i know it doesn't look much different, but it has a decent gap between the tire and pipe now. the travel now goes full to the back cross bar. will be adding a couple more rear mods as well. the support wire and a rear fender skid so the tire isnt bottoming out agains the cross bar under the rear fender. these will be later tonight i think.
last thing i got to so far was loosing the 2 body screws, and applying some strategicly located velcro pieces. I had this stuff that was precut in 1 in squares that i used. very good adheasive and strong hook n loop adheasiveness also.
i ll let the pics to the rest of the talking
(I added one more piece of velcro to the top front of the faux pipe to offer a bit more strength to holding the body on).
a pick up test
a 2nd pick up test
and a finale pick up test
Body Secure? CHECK!
Hilarious Tim!
hone: