Clutch carrier upgrade

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ChuenouXiao said:
Got pic of a clutch installed to engine with un-flatten spring washer on bolts?
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Here ya go. This bolt is completely tight. Notice the gap in the spring washer.

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E0D7FBEF-5DFE-43E5-8A53-F6B785451E28-810-000000F1F809F7DF_zpsd4f975e9.jpg
 
RCDAD said:
Here ya go. This bolt is completely tight. Notice the gap in the spring washer.-

E0D7FBEF-5DFE-43E5-8A53-F6B785451E28-810-000000F1F809F7DF_zpsd4f975e9.jpg
Click to expand...
Thanks for the shot Rcdad... appreciate it. I have no choice but to use my old spring washer and pull this current one for inspection. With enought torque... it will flatten out the spring washer right? Which is not what we want?
 
It should not even when torqued down. Look at the pic of the bolt. Once the back washer hits the clutch plate, the bolt can no longer go farther into it. That is supposed to let the clutch shoes pivot freely on the bolts.
 
RCDAD said:
It should not even when torqued down. Look at the pic of the bolt. Once the back washer hits the clutch plate, the bolt can no longer go farther into it. That is supposed to let the clutch shoes pivot freely on the bolts.
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The pic is a bit fuzzy Rcdad.... but I just put on my old washers. It looks like the other one when tighten. What do you think? What torque spec should I use?
 
That is correct.

I don't understand why bolt is flatlining the washer. It's like the bolts are too short. The spring washers should not flatten out even when the bolts are torqued down.
 
RCDAD said:
That is correct.I don't understand why bolt is flatlining the washer. It's like the bolts are too short. The spring washers should not flatten out even when the bolts are torqued down.
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Well... I installed the old washers..... front and back. This time I torqued it to 40ish inch lb. Not 60inch lb no more. Hoping this will give it slack to expand and close clutch. This may fix my issue (about it not engagin my bell, not sure about clutch carrier cracking though).

About the flattening of the washer... I have no idea RCdad. The only difference now is the clutch is a HPI clutch. I think the one that was stock from OBR was HPI too i believe. The bolts are stock too.

On my day off I will run the engine without clutch bell and see if the clutch will compress back after high rev. Especially when I turn off engine.
 
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I believe the bolt in my pic is the stock bolt. I could be mistaken though. Do you have only the one set of bolts?
 
RCDAD said:
I believe the bolt in my pic is the stock bolt. I could be mistaken though. Do you have only the one set of bolts?
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Yes sir, those are the stock ones from OBR that came with my engine :D and the only one I have.
 
Trying to revive my XB.The new cluch pad I purchase has such a weak spring that I can easily open it. On idle, my car wants to run! In contrast to my other older clutch, which is still useable, has a lot of compression power on the spring? Is this a defective clutch pad spring? The older clutch pad is the one that looks dirtier. Been trying to revive my XB guys. Need help... I believe there should be lots of tension on the spring right?

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Deluge said:
Is it a legit HPI clutch? I've seen some clone clutches that have a red spring, but they're definitely not 8k springs.
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I think the spring went bad cause its was stretched and held like that for a while until I open it up to find it was like that. I simply replace it. Will have to test new spring if everything works great. Then I should be golden....
 
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During my testing I realized that the torque spec of 60in lb for the two bolts that holds the clutch shoe to the clutch plate is too tight? So I realease the bolts until they clutch closes... then will test the engine to see if the clutch closes completely now.
 
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