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Yeah it's just a test mule. Not the finalWhat's up with that flywheel ? Did you buy that new ? It looks like someone took a Dremel tool to the key slot ?
But how would I make a bracket when the flywheel is about 2mm away from touching the crankcase? I would need a custom FlywheelSeems like it would be easier to make a moveable hall sensor bracket like Polar said. I think that would be an easier route. Just my $.02.
Don't mind how messed up it iNiether lol though polar was asking the way it picks up
This is mineView attachment 49573
Something like thisNah I was asking how it picks up. Lol. What is your engine supposed to look like when finished? Actually just want to know what the flywheel and pickup area is supposed to look like when finished. The stock setup.
Yep. I'll let to find a smaller diameter flywheel but I don't really think that's Gunna work outGotcha. Yeah that may be a problem. If it was like one of the 2 pics you sent 1st then I could see how to do it but your setup is quite different.
Do-able but then wouldn't there be less adjustability?How about machine notching some more keyways in the flywheel? Same as you would have on performance crank sprockets of 1:1 for adv and retard.
I mean I could try it, first I want to find all possible ways to go about this and then chooseYes would only be set points of adv or retard.
Yeah just giving some ideas.I mean I could try it, first I want to find all possible ways to go about this and then choose
Ideas are always welcome ??Yeah just giving some ideas.
Ok it's tapered. Key is a pain in the ass to remove.Just ditch the key and get some retaining compound. I do this a lot in my saw builds. If it's a taper crank and you torque it on proper the flywheel wont move. The key is normally more to facilitate proper timing anyway.
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