dbxl buggy shocks

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shayno said:
I'm curios, how are the 5 shocks any better?
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They are all alloy bodied and capped for toughness. They have ti-ni shock shafts and are uber-smooth. A variety of piston and spring options for tuning with 1 weight of oil, instead of just changing oil weights. Did I mention they are rugged and dependable. The only knock against them is Losi failed to threadlock the upper thread at the piston in the RTR's so some (most) have come undone while running...easy fix, just messy, cleaning up the spilled oil.
The DBXL shocks by comparison have plastic tabbed alloy caps, prone to breakage, and the piston/ oil combination is not well tuned from the factory, it looked like it was rushed through production. They don't rebound well, and many have complained of stiction from bushings that are too tight.
 
Just saw this on a different thread. But those new FID racing shocks looks pretty crazy
 
Would you recommend just sticking with the stock and figuring out a good weight of fluid then?
 
LawsiDBXL said:
Would you recommend just sticking with the stock and figuring out a good weight of fluid then?
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I would, as I am insanely cheap.:w00t: I have been in the hobby long enough (30 years) to tell by feel what is over or under damped for a platform this heavy, unfortunately, I don't have a stock DBXL to tell you what shock setup works best. Usually ride height arms level front and rear is a good baseline, and when trying to cure the dreaded mule kick condition, the rear suspension is compressing at a different rate than the front. I have also experienced diff. action contributing to this, where the center diff. unloads to the front too easily causing the front to pull you over a jump (nose down on the back side) instead of drive going to the rear causing a push up the face of the jump giving a nose up characteristic that you want in the air. I would stiffen the center diff. with the thickest grease you can find (marine grease is ideal, used on outboard motors) Then I would thicken the rear shock oil to be slightly heavier than the front. I do not like diff. lockers as they put huge strain on the drivetrain with no slip anywhere, especially when emergency landing on throttle, to save a certain lawn dart!
 
I appreciate the advice! I just redid all diffs 30/100/30 should I put maybe 60 in the rear ? Maybe I'll just put the 5k fluid in the rear shocks and see how well that does this weekend
 
-worth a practice run for sure. On my 5ive T, I packed the center diff. with grease and topped it off with 100K oil to fill in any voids, and am pleased with the power transfer. No longer ballons the fronts, yet has good steering in and out of corners, pulls well. The 30K front and rear should be perfect from my experience with large scale 4wd's. The heavier the rig, the heavier the oil......5K in the shocks, I have no idea...
 
With regard to the lack of rebound when just pushing the suspension down, I've found that if you manually move it up and down repeatedly, the shocks return to ride height on their own. Go up and down about 10 times, it should bounce back on its own when compressed. I'm gonna try a 7000/5000 mixture in each shock. I still have nowhere to really test it til this friggen snow pisses off and my track dries up :/ check mcgregorville rc on YouTube ;)
 
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Haha just gonna make your own 6k fluid like a boss! Yeah this weather is starting to Piss me off...highest degree so far has been about 30...One day lol
 
I went 50-100-50 on the diffs and put a few turns on the springs to help with the weight of the reed case, it jumps great but I'm running tapped up Micky thompsons till I get a chance to tear apart the stock tires and tape them up its amazing to put the hammer down and not have the wheels turn into pizza cutters. That power is getting to the ground I think the wheel extenders make a huge difference in keeping it upright while hammering it through the corners cut the roll overs by 75% I could let off some but it's not as fun, she puts out a hell of a roster tail gotta where safety glasses what little snow left around my track is all covered in mud. This thing is bad ass in the mud and the hard pack Right now it's all frozen again depending on what we get for snow tomorrow may stick the tracks on it for a bash. 3 gallons on it and only broke a cv pin cause I hit the side of my jump pretty I'm pressed with the durability most of that time has been below freeZimg. Losi uses damn good plastic for sure
 
I think this pic gives us an idea of how the buggy is preloading going up the jump face, unloading then taking a header. It just kills forward momentum enough to nose dive. Notice the daylight under each wheel and it hasn't even launched off the tip of the jump. Just a crazy thought, but does anyone think the stock tires are too soft? Soft enough to act like an under inflated tire on a real car? Ever try to push a car with a flat tire?! Lots of drag right? Customcvp says his jumps fine but he's running taped foams, making those tires more firm. I think this combined with a bottoming chassis would worsen the nose dive. Or am I crazy? Lol
 

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Marky said:
I think this pic gives us an idea of how the buggy is preloading going up the jump face, unloading then taking a header. It just kills forward momentum enough to nose dive. Notice the daylight under each wheel and it hasn't even launched off the tip of the jump. Just a crazy thought, but does anyone think the stock tires are too soft? Soft enough to act like an under inflated tire on a real car? Ever try to push a car with a flat tire?! Lots of drag right? Customcvp says his jumps fine but he's running taped foams, making those tires more firm. I think this combined with a bottoming chassis would worsen the nose dive. Or am I crazy? Lol
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As a matter of fact... I got my obr 30.5cc all broke in and running like a bat out of hell.. long story short I literally ripped the left rear tire about 2" at the beadlock and the same thing on a front tire. So now im waiting on New tires/wheels.
 
Lol I have a few sets of the mickeys on set is on the stock 5 wheel with hot racing alloy bead locks. The other set is on silverbacks with heavy duty plastic locks both taped I just ripped 2 tires off the wheels on the silverback set. That's be some sick power getting down to the ground. The backs have the big screws on the ones that held up same back bead lock normal screw pulled out. The HR black alloy locks look sweet with my old stockers with fresh white paint on them. All bigger hardware due to being stripped out and they took every thing I could throw at it. I only got this truck to make the protector kit for it and beat the poop out of my design of the protector to make sure we nailed it. And we did I've been putting it through hell different mounting design required than the five I don't like that pin setup for the carrier so my kit replaces that pin to a bolt like the five. Working great heads up on that pin it's going to be needing service mine looked nasty when I replaces it after a week just make sure you keep it lubed or put on a set of protectors that carry a life time warranty and get rid of that piss poor setup. How do you go wrong for 30 bucks + SH includes hardware
 
It helped a tad bit because they're the hard compound so there's not as much sag and preload in the tires them self. But still nose dives 90% of the time. Awesome tires otherwise, they stick way better than my friends trenchers for his baja on the terrain were on.
 
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