Fuel everywhere on Losi 5ive-T 2.0

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Gaffle

Well-Known Member
Messages
213
Location
Atlanta, GA
Excuse my newbie'isms but I'm excited that I started my Losi 5ive-T 2.0 for the first time. I let the engine idle for about 10 minutes, waited 20 minutes, then ran it again in my driveway for 10, waited then drove on the street for 5-10 minutes, all at nominal speeds. The buggy stopped but I think it was due to the transmitter failsafe or Killer Bee switch voltage failsafe... it was beeping as if it had lost the signal. Well anyway... I took my cover off the truck and noticed lots of fuel on the chassis, tank and a little on the stock air filter (w/ Outerwear). Is this normal? I have an aftermarket gas cap (DDM Racing alloy with a tiny hole on it).

Also, what does it mean if you're running, hard brake, then the engine stops? What adjustment needs to be made to prevent that? This only happened once and it was actually when I got the beeping failsafe noise. I'm charging all batteries now and may set the killswitch to 5v for receiver battery fail...
 
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Not sure about the fuel everywhere but I would check all the connection points. As for the engine shutting off with hard brakes, maybe your LSN is too rich. Maybe the LSN is so rich that fuel is shooting out the pipe also and it's getting all over. I would make sure you are at the correct factory carb settings. If so, try leaning it out by 1/8 increments and see if it starts helping. Good luck(y)
 
Okay, I read the instruction manual and it even states to not tilt your buggy with fuel in it. It says it can come out of the gas cap hole. I know at one point in moving the buggy around, I carried it by the rear bumper and saw some fuel come from that little hole. I'll test again for the hard braking / shutoff issue to see if its related.
 
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Everything everyone else said double check the hoses make sure your gas cap is onproperly, make sure your carb screws are tight don't over look the gas cap
 
Also check ur throttle servo end points and throttle brake linkage adjustment... mine was way off out of the box and also caused it to do what you described... under full brake it was forcing the throttle blade closed noticeably bowing the linkage... readjusted the linkage... problem solved
So I set my endpoint adjustments on the throttle in the forward and brake directions. I no longer get the bog on braking.

Another issue I have is my Killer Bee is not working properly. I have the Futaba 7PX transmitter and receiver. The Killer Bee is plugged into the engine power switch leads, connected to the KB connector, along with a lead going to CH.4 on the receiver. I set my PS5 on the transmitter as "Channel 4 control Nor. | Alt." When I drive the truck then hit the DT5 switch behind my controller steering wheel, the truck/engine will shut down as I expect; however, when I power the radio off with the truck running, it will not shut down or give any signal that somethings wrong. The engine continues to run but of course, the throttle or steering do not respond. This is a problem... any ideas what I should do? Does my problem have something to do with the Killer Bee dip switches?
Make sure the little RUBBER cap inside the FUEL CAP is on properly. If it’s not seated properly it will leak fuel.
Hey, I don't this this DDM gas cap has a rubber cap or grommet inside of it. It's all metal, no rubber innards.
 
Do those fuel caps screw on better than the factory plastic ones?I really don't like they way the plastic ones screw on. Thanks for any opinions.
It screws on perfectly fine to me. I like the look and feel of it. I'm wondering now if my having to pull start 30-35 times to get the engine started had something to do with the rubber insert not being on my gas cap. I just added it and will see tomorrow morning.
 
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:oops:30-35 times pulling pull start before starting? Somethings def not right. Check your carb settings.

Did you re-gap your coil after installing the killer b?
I don't know what ^^^ that ^^^ is... so nope! I looked up directions on Youtube for the Killer Bee switch and no one mentioned setting the gap. I do have a special thin metal gap tool I bought but didn't think I'd have to use unless I replaced the flywheel down the line. I will go back and check the carb settings. I'm hoping the directions that came with the car are exact for my G320 engine.
Relook at the directions for the killer bee. Shouldn't matter what extra channel you have it set up on. I would bet your do switches are not set properly
https://www.killerrc.com/pages/downloads
So those directions say radios with an Aux channel. I don't think my 7PX has an AUX channel but the receiver does have two extra channels (3 and 4) on the receiver: R334SBS Futaba

Based on that receiver, what should my Killer Bee dip switches be set to? Again, I currently have the Killer Bee physically plugged into CH. 4 on the receiver.
 
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