Going to experiment with VP premixed fuel

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Clubin said:
So long as you have a credit card and a Jerry can, it is available for purchase at our local airport. You can’t get caught burning it in a vehicle that is for highway use. I wouldn’t put it in anything that has a catalytic converter either. My two stroke stuff loves it though.
It’s got a real nice sweet smell to it
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Awesome for you ?
 
cbaker65 said:
Agree that ethanol does harm ,but ive been a hardcore gardner for over 20 years ,my equipment never stops ,my 2001
T-230 still kicks but off of ethanol ,its all original ,including the carb internals ,I think the secret to that is ,my equipment
is never shut down through the seasons ,winter ,I plant rye ,so my equipment goes through rough brutal use on scalping
grasses!....:cool:
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Thats exactly why, ethanol does harm when it sits. Not such a big deal if you run year round or atleast run your equipment dry. For the small amount of fuel I use in rc I personally find it worth it to just buy the VP. I get a case (4 gallons) roughly once a year for $90. A small amount considering all the other money I put into my rigs.
Z.hb71 said:
Av gas is awesome just (depending on where you live) sometimes you have to have a registered aircraft to buy it ? but if you can buy it that's awesome, and cheap aswell.
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What is av gas? Just a special blend or a diffrent fuel?
 
21bangbang said:
Thats exactly why, ethanol does harm when it sits. Not such a big deal if you run year round or atleast run your equipment dry. For the small amount of fuel I use in rc I personally find it worth it to just buy the VP. I get a case (4 gallons) roughly once a year for $90. A small amount considering all the other money I put into my rigs.

What is av gas? Just a special blend or a diffrent fuel?
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Av gas = aviation gas, plane fuel.
 
So phase 1 was to dump the old fuel and start over. Was not sure what to expect as far as a baseline carb tune. Typically what you will observe is if you had an ideal tune at 28:1 oil ratio , when switching to 40:1 your carb tune now becomes overly rich. The more oil suspended in the gas , the slower the fuel moves through the carb = richer tune. I had not run my Rovan since late august and I do remember it running rich then but now that temps are in the upper 40's to low 50's it fired right up and just needed to richen up the needles a tad. Seems to run awesome and the residual crankcase oil is getting burned off. If I get a mild day I might get a chance to give it a beating prior to the snow falling.
 
I use VP110 from a local gas station that has it in a regular pump. Lots of local racers get their fuel there. Anyways. I can't find in any research whether the 110 is actually ethanol free. Ive never had an issue with it but always wondered. Any input?
 
I would be careful with running lite on oil. If you push it hard continuously it may seize. Look at us in the boats. If we run your guys mixture ratio or less than 8 ounces and run it hard you will seize up. Same with my truck. I am pretty much wide open whole time around the area I run and spinning 20,000 to 21,500 rpm. So I use 10oz per gallon which is roughly 13:1 ratio which is same as we run in boats. Anything less and I will seize it.
 
Oil ratio is a function of rpm and load, we've beaten the crap out of this. Your boats run much differently then our cars/trucks. Cooling plays some what of a factor as well, and most importantly what kind of oil your using. polar is doing his own test, on his own dime to a rock stock engine. Kinda like saying your Chevy is going to blow up because you don't use the same oil as your Ferrari. Doesn't make sense.
 
What I would really like to accomplish is sustained high rpm's for extended periods of time and create some hard data to share on the forum. I have a handheld tach and thermometer and can plot rpm's and engine temps . Problem is the dam noise. I have respect for my neighbors and even with my DDM Dom silenced pipe it's annoyingly loud especially at 12K ! Maybe I can just buy a cheap ass quiet box muffler and test.
 
So I did some spec looking up , couldn't find anything for a rovan engine, but a g320 was easy enough. Max no load rpm is 20k. Max power (net) is at 13k max torque (net) 9k. So should give you a rough idea of where the power is in it. Are you going to be able to keep some sort of a load on it?
 
Polar_Bus said:
What I would really like to accomplish is sustained high rpm's for extended periods of time and create some hard data to share on the forum. I have a handheld tach and thermometer and can plot rpm's and engine temps . Problem is the dam noise. I have respect for my neighbors and even with my DDM Dom silenced pipe it's annoyingly loud especially at 12K ! Maybe I can just buy a cheap ass quiet box muffler and test.
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Any lawn and garden center should sell replacement lawn mower mufflers. Plenty can be fit to a rc and do a great job at noise reduction. Most can be had for under $20.
 
Polar_Bus said:
What I would really like to accomplish is sustained high rpm's for extended periods of time and create some hard data to share on the forum. I have a handheld tach and thermometer and can plot rpm's and engine temps .
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Unless engine is under load? Just running it on a stand will not tell anything. Best way is telemetry in vehicle and run it hard like you normally would. This will give true effects of what the less oil will do.
 
So I think it's time to post up some experiences now that i've had severall hours of some good bashing time running the VP 40:1 premix fuel. I'll cut right to the chase, if you don't mind the additional cost, do yourself a HUGE advantage and try premixed fuel. What i've learned is it definitely seems so much easier and consistent to tune when running VP fuel. Iv'e had to tweak my tune a few times from large outdoor ambient temps. (even this weekend, it was 85F and very humid, and literally the next day was 62F and dry air. Power and throttle response is really crisp and impressive. I can't conclude if the current very easy tuning is all from the new VP fuel, or the fact I know I have a completely air tight and mechanically solid engine. My Rovan was good responsive tuner prior running 32:1 Klotz and pump premium. The other bonus is the fact I didn't need any winter fuel treatment. I literally pulled my Rovan out of the basement (still had VP fuel from last year) , pumped the primer bulb a few times, and it started on the 4th pull. So for me, i'm DONE dicking around with pump premix. I've not only got my 1/5 RC , but i've also invested about $1400 in commercial grade gas powered yard maintenance equipment. So for me it's VERY much worth the extra cost of the VP fuel knowing that I have a quality stable fuel that can be stored without issues for a year if needed.

Now the disclaimer : The VP fuel is 40:1 and while in my opinion thats NOT an overly lean mixture content , it is relatively lean as compared to the recommended 25:1 . IMO running 25:1 is just unnecessarily drowning the engine in oil. I plan on another reliability update at the end of this year and i'm pretty confident that I won't have any engine issues. However until I can confirm this I suggest you try this with discretion. If you already have a problematic running engine, DON'T assume by switching to VP that your problems will be gone. What you probably will end up with is a blown engine from running a leaner oil ratio, ALONG with the fact you already had previous engine issues. If you feel you have a tight well maintained engine then go for it , try the VP , and as always keep your air filter clean, and favor a rich tune and have some fun !
 
I fully endorse the use of VP. I don't get the premix, but what you say about tuning is true imo. Its just better fuel. Less carb issue by a mile, less carbon buildup, less fouled plugs. It is expensive, but if you buy a case of 4 1gallon cans its a bit cheaper, saves maintenance on equipment money, and im convinced adds to the longevity of engines. Im yet to pop a head out of around 10 engines. Its great stuff.
 
21bangbang said:
I fully endorse the use of VP. I don't get the premix, but what you say about tuning is true imo. Its just better fuel. Less carb issue by a mile, less carbon buildup, less fouled plugs. It is expensive, but if you buy a case of 4 1gallon cans its a bit cheaper, saves maintenance on equipment money, and im convinced adds to the longevity of engines. Im yet to pop a head out of around 10 engines. Its great stuff.
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Well stated ! I've learned that the hidden killer "ethanol" is BAD and furthermore many times you have no idea that the ethanol spooge fungus is partially clogging your carb internals. With these TINY small engine carbs it doesn't take much to choke off the vital fuel/oil flow and that spells disaster in quick form especially if your robust with your throttle finger !
 
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