Lets build a T.L.R. 5b

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Im surppized after building the front and back diffs @ the sound that comes from the spur and pinion gears meshing as you turn the dog bones. its definitely louder than i was expecting. that being said i never built a 1/5 scale before, the only diff and transmissions i have had anything to do with were on 1/1 cars. but hey ill never hear it with the g320 and bart pipe screaming:ROFLMAO:(y)
 
Im surppized after building the front and back diffs @ the sound that comes from the spur and pinion gears meshing as you turn the dog bones. its definitely louder than i was expecting. that being said i never built a 1/5 scale before, the only diff and transmissions i have had anything to do with were on 1/1 cars. but hey ill never hear it with the g320 and bart pipe screaming:ROFLMAO:(y)

If it's really loud I'd check the mesh again.
It may need shimming.
 
this is the end of all bags marked with B
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now this is the only weird thing there was only 1 and no call for it from the manual?
maybe someone here knows something?
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That goes under the front steering brace in the front
 
next up was D3 dog bones hubs ect
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the next piece is TLR252003 sit between the stub axle and the bearing on all 4 hubs, its job is to hold the rubber boot in place very clever(y)
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add the lower arms
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the suggested anti squat 2 degrees and toe 3 degrees. look at the angle of the pins holding the lower arms on
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sway bar next the gold one .....nice!
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next was the shock tower rear wing mount and chassis brace and the dreaded suspension links. the front ones went ok
the back ones well let just say i swore their mothers:eek::LOL::ROFLMAO::devilish:
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and last the complete unit YAY!:happy::woot:
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got out he bag marked C which is the center diff, brake and throttle linkage
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start with diff which is all aluminum housing. something i have noticed with the build because its mostly with plastic parts
all the hole are untapped. as you turn the cap screw ect you are tapping it as you go. this can be really unsettling because sometimes
the screw starts going a little crooked... turn turn then goes strait. this happens more with the links as you have to use considerable force to get it going. so when i was putting the diff together it was quite comforting to have metal on metal with very smooth tapped threads everything just fit perfectly:)(y)
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look at those gorgeous threads:love:
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done
 
here are a few pics of the linkage servo horn and spur gear guard
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the little grub screws are very tiny! almost need tweezers to pick them up:rolleyes:
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didn't find the instructions very clear on which way the brake cams should go...had to change their position a few times
more that one hole for the pins to go through the cam arms
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LOL here comes more!:D
here is the rest of the center diff
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so after i finished the center diff i got the bag a out bellcrank front and top brace and servo links and tray and fuel tank
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so i saw on ddm that fast eddy has a bellcrank lock nut mod. what id like to know dose the nut on the bellcrank in this
kit still slip? it has a tapped hole with a cap screw through it
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next i got the chassis out
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with the sides on the size of the 5B is starting to sink in:LOL:
the front end and fuel tank
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notice the void where my steering servos will go
now with the center diff on.... i like the brake set up it has springs between the brake shoes to stop the brakes binding
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now with the rear axle on it looks like a buggy coming to life
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it doses look super sweet:p
next to go in ill do the radio tray sure will go without a hitch. then the shocks, im curious as i have never built shocks before.
i really enjoy getting the parts out the bags looking through the manual, building is part of the experience. for the guys who buy RTR you are missing out! i know not all cars come as kit so sometimes there is nothing to be done for that. i still have a way to go with this so hang in there while a bomb you lot with a thousand more picso_O:LOL:(y)
 
So i jumped the gun a bit and went ahead and built the shocks and put them on...even though i have just place an order for so outerwears shock covers and some aluminum braces :love:
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please excuse the product placement in the next pic i made a shock stand quick fast
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have a look at this its a copper washer that goes on the bleeder cap screw it is tiny and only 0.2mm thick!
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I got to use the losi multi tool for the next bit. the shock shaft has two flat bit near the end and the losi tool fits on, to hold the shaft as you screw the shock end on. Again this needs a firm grip because you have to tap your own thread on these
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her is my high tech shock stand in action:LOL:
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i did not take a pic of the shaft boots ....woops! i was not paying attention when doing this part, put a back on the front did not notice till i could not work out why the last one was too short.....had undo the shock end on two swop and redo... dumb ass!
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in the end the only thing i was not happy with was the bushing that goes inside the bleeder cap it was not a snug/tight fit
and there is a bit of play on the shock tower side
 
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