Making gaskets??

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When we were out in the mines rebuilding engines and didnt have a gasket, we would use the stiff single layer cardboard some of the parts came in and smear a thin layer of grease on the non glossy side. Couldn't believe how well they held up.
 
Gasket paper isn't much different from that stuff @Seandonato73 just doesn't have a plastic side. I used gasket paper with a thin smear of castor oil on my nitros all the time and so long at the openings were correct, they worked just fine as well. The paper would soak up the oil and create a good seal.

Never tried it with a gasser though.
 
After a few attempts at this i have isolated the main issue??
My isolator/maifold was wrapped??
I had an obr oreder come in last week in the order i got a bunch of new gasket plus a couple isolators ? so iv replaced all the gaskets new manimanifold ?
But now what im thinking is this. Had the manifold not been warped bet my DIY gaskets would have worked.......?
 
dougstar said:
After a few attempts at this i have isolated the main issue??
My isolator/maifold was wrapped??
I had an obr oreder come in last week in the order i got a bunch of new gasket plus a couple isolators ? so iv replaced all the gaskets new manimanifold ?
But now what im thinking is this. Had the manifold not been warped bet my DIY gaskets would have worked.......?
Click to expand...
More than likely would have.
An alloy manifold wouldn't have warped. :ROFLMAO:
No idea what my Zenoah one is made of but it's lasted about 5 years so far.
 
Mechanical failure on the collars. That's a new one to me. But really, you have a metal collar pressed into polymer. Makes sense as a point of failure if you have a lot of vibration and space for those collars to work themselves free.

Knowing that you already bought replacements, there's really no point in trying to fix it. But I wonder what could have caused that in the first place. My only guess is that you tried to run it without gaskets and the proper torque on the bolts. But you are all about those kind of details so it just makes me scratch my head over it. Maybe you just got a bum part?
 
dougstar said:
I think it was from over tightening the carb... as the carb collars are opposite ......so that's the only way I see a manifold warping
Click to expand...

You have two different materials in the collars and body of the manifold meaning that they will expand and contract at different rates during heating and cooling.
Something has to give at some stage.
 
Warped components was an observed concern with me too when I tore apart my Rovan. Again my mini mill saved my butt. The POS composite Rovan carb spacer was twisted (air leak). And i was also disappointed in the DDM Dominator pipe as I was observing oil spooge exiting the exit flange. Come to find out the coupling flange was bowed convex big time from the factory welding operation. Again a few facing passes on my mini mill and the flange now seals as it should. So my point is don't assume that surfaces are "flat" , especially intake related components. Check them with a steel straight edged ruler or something and look up into the light to find any light gaps. Intake system air leaks will cause tuning headaches and you will think you have carb issues when in reality it's air leaks. I'll say it again, don't feel you have to use paper gaskets, there's nothing wrong with substituting Permatex RTV in place of paper. However that being said, there are circumstances where you DO in fact need to use a paper gasket ( such as your crankcase halves) to maintain proper component spacing.
 
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