- Thread starter
- #81
Yes I will do the same as my other one. A reefs 555.
My 5ive-t build
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Boostedmk3
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- Thread starter
- #83
No never did. Apparently they aren’t great. So they are on my peg board.
@Boostedmk3 the rcr pads are not a direct bolt on for the 2.0. You have to open up the holes on the pads. I did rcr pads with innovative rc booted discs and I don't recommend it as the aluminum starts to build up on the copper pads and you also have to remove the springs in between the pads as they rub the rotors. Also from hard braking you start getting slop over the cups so yea avoid those rotors
Boostedmk3
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So full RCR is the only way to go on these
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You don't really need rcr anything for the 5ive platform. The stock brakes work very well.
Boostedmk3
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I set my endpoints so that the servo barely moves and the brakes are crap. Could add more pressure but then I start seeing flex
I agree with Sean, if you want to do rcr sure but it's not necessary and the stock brakes are more than adequate to stop the thing dead
@Boostedmk3 you need to adjust the rods that contact the levers. With the radio on and the servo in its relaxed state wind the rods in toward the levers and touch them. You want ZERO slop in them
@Boostedmk3 you need to adjust the rods that contact the levers. With the radio on and the servo in its relaxed state wind the rods in toward the levers and touch them. You want ZERO slop in them
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Yeah the stock diff mount flexes. It's not really a big deal, amd there's many ways to help eliminate it. The stock brakes work great when you have them set up properly. The rcr brakes arnt really a huge upgrade on a 5ive like they are on a vekta or baja.
@Boostedmk3 please let this be the last unrelated question be talked about in someone else's build thread. I emphasized with you to start your OWN build thread to ask your own questions in, Thanks
- Thread starter
- #91
I have a set to go on. But I figured I’d wear off the stock ones first. Honestly no complaints about stock brakes as noted above.
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- #92
Picking up the rippums a bit and it’s not
Liking the high rpm’s. Changed the clunk thought that was it. Changed out the failsafe thought maybe. Plug hood. Fresh tank of fuel again. Well. There is a plastic insulator to reduce heat soak from the intake to the carb. Gasket in each side. Engine side gasket was blocking pulse port. And the port was open to the intake. This one was a head scratcher for me. It was all factory assembled I never had it apart but all is good loving this 55!
Liking the high rpm’s. Changed the clunk thought that was it. Changed out the failsafe thought maybe. Plug hood. Fresh tank of fuel again. Well. There is a plastic insulator to reduce heat soak from the intake to the carb. Gasket in each side. Engine side gasket was blocking pulse port. And the port was open to the intake. This one was a head scratcher for me. It was all factory assembled I never had it apart but all is good loving this 55!
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- #94
Those are from Detroit performance.
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- #95
Couldn’t stomach running the tr air filter housing went this route with the Taylor clamp on intake and ram air filter. Fit perfect and shouldn’t be an issue. Tons of clearance under the body. 
I don't blame you, I threw mine in a box and it will stay there indefinitely.
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- #97
What did you end up putting on yours after your misfortune?
I’ve been running one since this spring and like it. It does impede the primer bulb just a little but no biggie!
I went with a ddm 1" velocity stack and a dt-1 dome filter.
Also doing the same to fg
Also doing the same to fg
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- #100
Did this too
