New Grave Digger owner

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That's always the way with everything though - hindsight is always 20/20 as the saying goes. I'm sure in another year or two, there will be more cool products coming out we'll all want to toss more money at haha

As for the engine, I 100% agree. Either stock or one of these more mild CY460 engines seems like the way to go, or the O'Neil brothers modded engine based on the same platform. The Taylor 50GT is just stupid, and anything more powerful is a total poop show ... even the 50GT is a wheelie fest; that's not even enjoyable looking whatsoever nor what the truck was meant to do. Not to mention, it's expensive enough as it is ... forget replacing parts after a 10 minute run.

If you look at scale speeds, 1/5 scale speeds for a monster truck should be anywhere from around 20 - 35mph tops, anything more is just goofy. The design of these trucks isn't at all meant for such high speed; they're clumsy beasts.
 
I took my mega truck with the ho46 engine for a rip the other day and it’s just about perfect, it’s not a dog like the stock engine is and it doesn’t destroy the drive train like the bigger engines do. I left it on the stock gearing with the mud truck tires and it was good
Don’t get me wrong I love the Taylor 50 engine in my Ram as it’s fun to do wheelies and stuff but constantly changing out broken parts gets old pretty quick and takes all the fun out of it
It was more fun to drive the mega truck then the Taylor powered Ram (I guess digger now), because I could push the truck harder and not worry about twisting off a diff out drive or tranny shaft
 
Nice to hear. I say the "Taylor 50 is just stupid" (stupidly powerful) not at all from experience though, but from watching just about every YouTube video out there and bit of info on the truck I could find. No doubt it's a beautiful engine and is a beast, but just seems like its not worth the repair bills and sure wheelies on demand can be fun but I'd rather something you have to work harder to obtain a wheelie and have a bit more control over the engine to do some fun stunts / have more total control of the truck in general.

It's more fun to drive cars on the edge with a well matched engine than constantly fighting to keep the truck within its limits with an overpowered engine. I say that from full-scale racing experience; the best fun is a well matched overall package to me anyhow. I see these 5T's and Bajas etc. with 50+ CC engines and big wheelie bars and it's just not my thing at all. Mostly I love to drive and watch like these things move like they are a work of art, watching the suspension in motion and how it articulates and takes jumps etc.
 
Is anyone understanding my selling the 50 raminator yet !!!??? ,, I've got a losi 5t with a Taylor 50 in it and it is smiles everywhere I go with it , heck , same with the Taylor 35 in my VEKTA5, can't wait to get a controllable digger , cy460 is perfect !! That 50 in the raminator won't go into any other rig , so I sold it and built the FREEK ! with the money , and I'm very happy with my decision
 
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Well this is a very long thread , now , where are we at ? There's how many engine options now , I can't wait to get one , but I'm waiting on the vesla build to be paid off then I'll investimagate , just my opinion but the digger is the pinnacle of rc , but that's just me and this mile long thread is very deserving , it's THE BEAST !!
 
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Haha wish I had more to input on the thread at this point. Just setting up my 10PX tonight ... big improvement in feel over the 4PMP. I would figure the 7PX is a good level; the 10PX is a bit overkill on the number of buttons but the screen and the menus sure are a big improvement, even over the 7px it seems.

Let you know when I run this beast. Still soggy on the property here and just hailed/snowed randomly this evening. Arg
 
I just installed the CY46 from primal and runs great. Cut out part of the frame for easier access. Not even sure I’m gonna play with needles.
 
you can buy an adapter from DDM that allows you to use a normal sized Zenoah pull start so you don't have to cut the side frame out
That's what I did on the mega truck and so far its working good
It's just a bit of a pain to fit it to the engine as you have to oblong the mounting holes on the pull start to line up with the holes in the engine
It is not hard to do just takes a bit of time with a needle file
 
I did the same. Not into cutting into the frame to fit an engine in there. I forgot that's the only drawback to the CY engine is it's a bit of a juggle to fit it in there, unless you mod the pull start as deathrawt mentioned.

I modified the original engine mount bracket by grinding it down, and grinding a bit of the fan-shroud on the CY engine so I could still have support for the transmission case tied into the two cross support posts as I didn't like not having the engine nor the transmission bolted in on both ends. So I went a bit further, but Taylor RC as well as Primal RC say that it's not needed ... but uh, why did they design it in to begin with then? And if it's needed with the much less powerful stock engine, but not with more powerful engines? I'm quite sure this isn't helping keep the drivetrain in alignment and in tact but maybe the CY is just tame enough to not cause an issue.

Side note ... re-did my wiring inside the box again.

Using this channel layout with 10 channels available using the Futaba SBD-2 plugged into the SBUS port of the R404SBS receiver:
  1. Steering (main)
  2. Throttle & Engine Kill pass-through
  3. Engine kill signal wire
  4. --- Open for upgrade to rear-steer
  5. --- Open --- SBD-2 set to handle channels 5-8
  6. Reverse engagement servo
  7. Transmitter controlled light switch for main headlights
  8. Toggle switch with green LED, hooked up to voltage readout (voltage readout turns on/off with toggle switch ... I'll just leave this ON at all times, I mainly left the switch in place for the green status LED since I'm not using it to turn on/off the headlights now)
I always like having the headlights available to toggle on/off from the transmitter where I can. In the process, I cleaned up a lot of the wiring and was able to eliminate 2 Y cables I was using with the previous 4 channel setup with my Futaba 4PM which made the inside of the box a bit nicer.

Alright ... officially finished messing around with this Grave Digger setup.
 
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First run ... man this thing is sweet!

Running stock needle settings nice and slobbery rich, and limited the throttle to 50% and I can't imagine wanting more power on this thing. At 50% throttle once it gets on step it's plenty quick with 23/27 gearing. Full throttle with the size of this thing will be nuts once I get more fuel and nail down the needle settings.

Taylor 50 or higher ... would be freakin' insanity! haha IMO not at all needed. What Primal needs to do is get something like a Taylor 40 or the CY460 nicely packaged up with a pipe where you don't need to cut into the side of the frame, and sell it as a stock or at least an option engine letting you drop the current stock engine. This 460 engine would work if they sold it with a smaller pull start, and would be absolutely perfect but short of that something a bit less powerful than the Taylor 50 ... maybe the 40, or 46cc if that would fit. Something custom though designed for this truck specifically.

Here's a couple videos:

First start and idle. Easy to start, great little engine.

50% throttle pass with my 1 year old getting excited in the background haha

My wife decided to get creative and put together a clip. Still very conservative, running my throttle capped at 50% without any needle tweaking ... but boy is it already fun. Going to be a beast once it's all tuned up. The size of this thing is impressive, and to see it moving this quickly for the size is like no other RC vehicle I've ever owned anyhow.

 
Quick question ... I would assume a small amount of fuel leakage is normal out of these rubber stopper setups for the fuel tanks. On the RC planes, it's either a fuel nipple designed into the lid, or there's a screw that expands the rubber stopper against the walls of the tank to seal it air and leak tight. It seems these RC car fuel tanks drip and leak.

I was thinking of using sealant around all the fittings. Does anyone else have a solution or should I re-do my lines with a new rubber stopper; maybe I poked at it and caused a small leak. Not too sure, but this isn't the first RC car fuel tank to have a small leak the gets fuel everywhere.
 
codeman11 said:
Quick question ... I would assume a small amount of fuel leakage is normal out of these rubber stopper setups for the fuel tanks. On the RC planes, it's either a fuel nipple designed into the lid, or there's a screw that expands the rubber stopper against the walls of the tank to seal it air and leak tight. It seems these RC car fuel tanks drip and leak.

I was thinking of using sealant around all the fittings. Does anyone else have a solution or should I re-do my lines with a new rubber stopper; maybe I poked at it and caused a small leak. Not too sure, but this isn't the first RC car fuel tank to have a small leak the gets fuel everywhere.
Click to expand...

I've never had them leak for the rubber push through grommets.

I usually use thicker line which in turn make the push through grommet sit tighter against the tank. Are you using fuel line over your brass fuel kit then going through the grommet or did you just stick the barb through the hole
 
Oh shoot, was I supposed to push fuel line over the brass and into the grommet? I just pushed the brass barb through. Again something I’m used to from planes where you just push the brass tube through the grommet.

My other 5th scale tank at the moment is a DBXL 2 … but probably not a good comparison as those are notoriously leaky tanks and already had to melt plastic to fill a hole that formed to fix a major leak.
 
codeman11 said:
Oh shoot, was I supposed to push fuel line over the brass and into the grommet? I just pushed the brass barb through. Again something I’m used to from planes where you just push the brass tube through the grommet.

My other 5th scale tank at the moment is a DBXL 2 … but probably not a good comparison as those are notoriously leaky tanks and already had to melt plastic to fill a hole that formed to fix a major leak.
Click to expand...

Yep, you need fuel line over them to help tighten them up. Will likely solve your issues completely their
 
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