Nutech GT5R

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Thanks but the 5B is my bud's. I am also getting one of the new Jet Pro pipes I just posted in another thread. mine's getting chromed.

I have to cut a servo tray out of carbon, and use some fg steering links from the servo horn to the servo saver (it will have the push pull setup). I need to find a couple smaller digis now
 
New shoes for the GT5R. GRP extra soft on back and soft on front. I got 3 pairs of fg progressive springs too so I put reds on front and the orange/yellows on back. I still have a pair of the yellows to work with too that are a little softer. They fit the Nutech shocks perfectly and actually are a bit shorter so provide some droop. I have replaced the spring retainers back to stock ones and as you can see, I can actually use the adjusters now... I was up late getting ready, just realized looking at the pics I put one front spring on upside down. easy enough to fix... I was also able to get the lean angle in on front... and I changed the position of the front brake and the carb linkages on the servo horn

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Liking the new rubber, those tires make that car look a whole lot better, now if they perform as good as they look your all set.
 
Even better. I had to go drop an invoice off this morning so we loaded up the car and headed out early. It rained almost the whole way there and back so the ground was wet. We didn't want to miss another weekend so Rich and I went out and ran a bit to try things out...

I was tuning the carb a bit since the engine is still new. was cold and wet so richened the needles a few times. I was honestly trying to spin out and had a hard time... my semi did a couple 360's on the same lot...

Pipeous said:
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So whats the verdict? Are you happy with it? It looked really good, was your body getting warm from the pipe being so close?
 
I have to admit with these tires it outhandles my truck.... never thought I would ever say that. in the first video I picked the car up by the pipe. it doesn't get warm even. I actually thought I was running over rich since the pipe was so cool but ended up richening the needles some more. the pipe was rubbing on the back window though so I cut the window out last night. I had taken the rear body posts off as they held the car too high and tweaked my chassis so the body was resting on the pipe. now it sticks through a bit...

That lot was damp and puddles. I seriously tried to spin it out. I couldn't get it to do donuts... and compared to my truck on the same lot...

here's a few... this one is buddy driving his baja with his chin and filming, I was getting my nitro bike started. I had to work on the bike steering though. turns out the steering servo is fooked up and doesn't turn as much one way as the other (no not a radio setting. to even the servo out now I have 125% epa one way and 75% the other... time to turf the stocker.

This is the truck running. the slicks really don't like any water
 
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I didn't like the way the front brake pads operated, or more precisely, came loose on me when driving.. I had it apart today to check some stuff over and I loktited the bolts that hold the pads into the aluminum. They rocked in the holes so I had to let them sit with loktite, and I had to hope I got them right because when the loktite dries, you can't adjust them... defeats the purpose.

so I took some fg 8448 stub bolts. they are like long sets screws, with a non threaded center section. you use a nyloc nut outside the disc to adjust the brakes then.

simple? seemed so at first but the brakes are just a little wider than fg. so I added a setscrew from behind so the stub bolt could have something to stop it inside. it worked out really well, except the bunch of collets that don't have setscrews now LOL

here's some vids to show what I mean
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Hi Barry
If you have any old pens laying around ,the spring loaded ones, you can use the spring to help your fine tuning by keeping them apart ,it needs to go in between the brake pads you will have to make the hole where the bolt goes threw the pad, so the spring will sit inside the pad if you know what i mean.
works a treat
 
Thanks Lee, forgot to do that one, though I don't seem to have any drag. these brakes work really well and the pads are very thick. I am stripping this thing next week as my chassis arrived yesterday. I have to work on my 1:1 car today and working the next 2. we are running a bit on sunday at the same location.

we are taking the stock chassis and doing some tig welding to it, then building my buddy a Futech with it (I have lots of spare fg parts lol)
 
The tank is used. I'll have to clean it up a little bit. The chassis is used too but still in good shape. I took a side pic so you can see how thick it really is

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Your gt5r stock pipe seems almost identical (except color) to my carson c5 pipe. Even header looks same. Did you get big gain or is stock even acceptable. I saw pipe inside chamber and stock feels bit restrictive when blowing in to it.
 
cheers man. this pipe makes big power. I am going back to the lot where I had the car sliding all over with the stock tires... it's mother's day so most of the gang is tied up. Rich and I just want to take the toys out for a burn. got 2 on roads ready and 2 bikes to play with. no track cuz we are just going to do a bit of tuning

for the money, this car is hard to beat. it just needs tires really.... I know Dino has made a side pipe too but I haven't seen it yet. stock pipe was ok but I never tried it with the new tires. when this pipe arrived I was like the guy from spinal tap... it's bigger, it's got to be better. I am donating the stock chassis and pipe and a bunch of parts to a buddy to build a car of his own. just changed to alloy arms on semi, so that's another donation.

I ran a carson pipe on my semi before I got the samba. the guts inside seem to come loose after a while and it rattles. drives me nuts. I don't think there are any baffles inside this pipe, it's really light. I could be mistaken though.
 
Sure Chris. The side body mounts bolt to the chassis the same as the stock location so no changes there, nor at the front. I just want to lower the back mounts off the tower. After I got the body lowered into position, I had to use rubber spacers above the body as the closest body clip hole was a half inch above the lexan.

I just hope I can drill the holes without putting a bit through my finger ;)
the toughest mod was movng the small motor mount to the opposite side of the casing as that required dremmeling the motor case. I figured I'd explain since you can't see vimeo videos... my photobucket account was almost full and I had to move all my vids over to vimeo so I can use PB for my pics

I cut the servo tray before I crashed out last night from spare carbon. it will use 3 servos. I have a hitec digi on steering and throttle/rear brake and the stock steering servo for front brake.

I have to finish it today as we are getting together tomorrow for a parking lot bash
 
Servo tray is made and servos mounted. I had to use a couple plastic servo mount things from a firehammer set. I will need more nyloc nuts to finish this off...

ok, so I cut standoffs 57mm long to accomodate the servo saver pivot post. I just made some temp ones out of plastic to see where I am sittting. I am going to moun it like this for tomorrow, but after I get some aluminum tube to thread, I'll make new ones and cut them a bit shorter. Then I sill cut the steering post down the same amount on top. I'll have to use a spacer between the tray and brace but will drop the weight down further and make it stronger. I'll know better once I get around to hooking up linkages. I came out here to grab my radio for that.

I used a push pull setup on steering. that really makes things smooth and the servo works to turn on both sides. I like round servo horns as you can always get a nice balance on this type of setup and easier to zero out

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