The 5745MG is much better then the 805bb due to the gears being alloy instead of plastic. The 805 is more powerful and cheaper but they have a tendency to snap on the top due to the gears being plastic.
Nutech Thunderbolt 2
- Thread starter pipeous
- Start date
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mynameismud76
Well-Known Member
Cheers for the headsup Bigger and Pipeous :donatello:
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #44
Here ya go...
This is an old track that has been closed for a while. it was in rough shape. We took a few tools to clear the puddles. there were oceans all over. kids had busted up a lot of the drivers stand etc etc etc
first vid is my bud's MGT. last is a tmaxx and my tb2.
I have not changed the carb settings at all since I richened themn a bit before the idle in I did a while back.
The difs with grease I have to agree with Clubin'... it's a front wheel drive. really needs like 100k dif lube in center, at least 50k. I am going to tray 100 and 50 in my difs now....
Lost a lower c hub screw... I found the bushings from a NF 501 triple fit pretty close in there. I just have to make a secondary bushing to stop the threads... I was driving doing the jumps with the screw out and it was fine. steering locked once so I knew something was up...
and I just finished cleaning the pig
This is an old track that has been closed for a while. it was in rough shape. We took a few tools to clear the puddles. there were oceans all over. kids had busted up a lot of the drivers stand etc etc etc
first vid is my bud's MGT. last is a tmaxx and my tb2.
I have not changed the carb settings at all since I richened themn a bit before the idle in I did a while back.
The difs with grease I have to agree with Clubin'... it's a front wheel drive. really needs like 100k dif lube in center, at least 50k. I am going to tray 100 and 50 in my difs now....
Lost a lower c hub screw... I found the bushings from a NF 501 triple fit pretty close in there. I just have to make a secondary bushing to stop the threads... I was driving doing the jumps with the screw out and it was fine. steering locked once so I knew something was up...
and I just finished cleaning the pig
mynameismud76
Well-Known Member
Hi guys,
@ Pipe, sweet footage and uber nice bashing grounds..be awesome in the summer when it dries up abit..the acoustics under the bridge must be phenominal as well.
Suggestions please guys/gals. Just compiling a list ready for the Punibolt, so I can just plug in and blast it:
- Steering - Hitec 5745's or Rhino's
- throttle/brake - is standard sized or 5th scale servos?
- what type of oil is most compatible with CY engines?
- is using Shell or anyother type of high-grade expensive petrol beneficial to the engine in terms of performance or longevity?
@ Pipe, sweet footage and uber nice bashing grounds..be awesome in the summer when it dries up abit..the acoustics under the bridge must be phenominal as well.
Suggestions please guys/gals. Just compiling a list ready for the Punibolt, so I can just plug in and blast it:
- Steering - Hitec 5745's or Rhino's
- throttle/brake - is standard sized or 5th scale servos?
- what type of oil is most compatible with CY engines?
- is using Shell or anyother type of high-grade expensive petrol beneficial to the engine in terms of performance or longevity?
mynameismud76
Well-Known Member
Forgot:
Would I need a humpback battery for the punibolt?
Cheers
Would I need a humpback battery for the punibolt?
Cheers
sickboy
Well-Known Member
Ye a humpback will fit nicely, i have one my self in my mt pro racer
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #48
I run 92 octane fuel in my rc's and detailing equipment. my pressure washer gets used a ton and never had to do a thing to it in 3 yrs, almost 4
I tried fitting a gws servo in and was way too big for steering as it hit the gas tank. it would have needed to be shimmed forward quite a bit. the hitec 5745 fits perfect and fairly inexpensive. gws is the same size as a hitec 805 and my tp digi in the fg. I have a Nutech GT5R coming and have a couple 5745's to toss in it as well.. on brakes it's overkill, as I am running 41% brake
as for battery, I cut my radio box and stuffed a 3s lipo in with a bec. I do that to all my 5ths. they last forever then and provides a steady 6v (or whatever you set the bec at). my battery sticks out of the box and slightly under the motor. I just shoe goo'd it down
I tried fitting a gws servo in and was way too big for steering as it hit the gas tank. it would have needed to be shimmed forward quite a bit. the hitec 5745 fits perfect and fairly inexpensive. gws is the same size as a hitec 805 and my tp digi in the fg. I have a Nutech GT5R coming and have a couple 5745's to toss in it as well.. on brakes it's overkill, as I am running 41% brake
as for battery, I cut my radio box and stuffed a 3s lipo in with a bec. I do that to all my 5ths. they last forever then and provides a steady 6v (or whatever you set the bec at). my battery sticks out of the box and slightly under the motor. I just shoe goo'd it down
mynameismud76
Well-Known Member
Hi guys, cheers for that awesome info.
What are becs?
I've read that Lipo's are a bit of a fire risk. As a novice, should I stick with a large mAh battery?
Do like the sound of long run times, and the steady supply of 6v though..
What are becs?
I've read that Lipo's are a bit of a fire risk. As a novice, should I stick with a large mAh battery?
Do like the sound of long run times, and the steady supply of 6v though..
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #50
I've never had a lipo go up in flames... I've had a nmh rx pack go up though... most lipo fires are from using the wrong charger and trying to charge a lipo on nmh setting... or using an auto detect. a dead 3s is about the same as a charged 2s for voltage and a charger might think it's charging a dead 3s if you plug a charged 2s on for example. I have crashed helis and bent lipos, dented them in... only lipo I ever killed was in a radio that got turned on while in transit. I was 12 hrs away and made a stopover at a friends on the way back, so it over discharged and puffed.
bec is basically a voltage regulator. I use a 3 cel lipo (12.6v fully charged) and step it down to 6v. it's a 2200 mah, but really it's like having a much bigger battery because of the extra voltage. in my semi I have a 2650 mah 3s. only rc I have a nmh pack is the nitro bike, but as soon as I figure a lipo to fit, it'll get one too. they have zero memory effect like nicad and nmh, so you can just top them up when you are done for the day without any worries... I have a cheapo charger that charges through the balance plug each cel individually, so I can leave the dean's plugged in. I wire the lipo to the switch and the bec after the switch so it doesn't draw juice when it's turned off.
Been using lipos for a long time... like, I remember a lipo for one heli running about $800!! now they cost less than nmh packs and are so much better. lighter, smaller and higher capacity. win win win. and no memory... no downside I can see to using them... chargers for lipos are generally cheaper too. my cheapo does up to 4s lipo, but can charge two 2s lipos at once.. was $25 I believe.. maybe $30
bec is basically a voltage regulator. I use a 3 cel lipo (12.6v fully charged) and step it down to 6v. it's a 2200 mah, but really it's like having a much bigger battery because of the extra voltage. in my semi I have a 2650 mah 3s. only rc I have a nmh pack is the nitro bike, but as soon as I figure a lipo to fit, it'll get one too. they have zero memory effect like nicad and nmh, so you can just top them up when you are done for the day without any worries... I have a cheapo charger that charges through the balance plug each cel individually, so I can leave the dean's plugged in. I wire the lipo to the switch and the bec after the switch so it doesn't draw juice when it's turned off.
Been using lipos for a long time... like, I remember a lipo for one heli running about $800!! now they cost less than nmh packs and are so much better. lighter, smaller and higher capacity. win win win. and no memory... no downside I can see to using them... chargers for lipos are generally cheaper too. my cheapo does up to 4s lipo, but can charge two 2s lipos at once.. was $25 I believe.. maybe $30
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #51
Well it's installed now. I have the TB2 on the table and half ripped apart. I had to cut some long bolts to fit as the stockers were too short. under the servo saver side I used an fg ball end for clearance. I see marks on the dogbone so even though I had it spaced it still rubbed a little. so I made sure this time... One issue I see is I need the aluminum servo saver now as I see the flex with the rigid rod (man been watching a lot of scrubs so that made me think of Todd lol). I think it worked out well. smooth and rigid. I am going right through all the steering components today and making/modifying it all. I told the girls the dining room table is mine until next morning so they get to eat in front of the tv tonight haha
mynameismud76
Well-Known Member
Thanks again Mr P for the info!! I'm sooo close to getting my Punibolt!! Could be as early as Friday!!
The steering mod looks sweet. I saw on another forum that a guy upgraded the servo saver after a day bashing on the beach. The photo showed his servo arm, the lower plastic part, snapped clean at the elbow.
The steering mod looks sweet. I saw on another forum that a guy upgraded the servo saver after a day bashing on the beach. The photo showed his servo arm, the lower plastic part, snapped clean at the elbow.
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #53
I can see it breaking. I ordered the aluminum one now myself. Now that the slop is gone and flex from the bent rod I can see the servo saver flexing now.
I had to change the aluminum servo horn for the plasic one as it is longer. when turning full left the rod hit the dogbone.
I also had some rear fg upright extensions I bought from mooman way back sitting here. finally found a use for them. and I can use some 8mm short rear uppers to make that stronger. saw sickboy bent his rear upper in a tumble.
Here's a short vid too. it explains why the steering pivot bolts are too short and I made my own... well I pulled an all nighter after graveyard and set my bloddy tap down and can't find it... just woke up 5 am and buggy on the table still. am about to go finish it off... just waiting for the meds to kick in so this harsh pain goes away
I had to change the aluminum servo horn for the plasic one as it is longer. when turning full left the rod hit the dogbone.
I also had some rear fg upright extensions I bought from mooman way back sitting here. finally found a use for them. and I can use some 8mm short rear uppers to make that stronger. saw sickboy bent his rear upper in a tumble.
Here's a short vid too. it explains why the steering pivot bolts are too short and I made my own... well I pulled an all nighter after graveyard and set my bloddy tap down and can't find it... just woke up 5 am and buggy on the table still. am about to go finish it off... just waiting for the meds to kick in so this harsh pain goes away
sperera
Well-Known Member
nice work pipe, coming along nicley.
don't take this the wrong way but it seems like there is allot of modifying/upgrading straight out of the box, I know some of them are preventative upgrades.
don't take this the wrong way but it seems like there is allot of modifying/upgrading straight out of the box, I know some of them are preventative upgrades.
NUTECHRACING
Well-Known Member
Cool Mods.
sickboy
Well-Known Member
Well who's bean a busy chap then lol looking good there Barry.
The videos of what you have bean doing that's a nice touch to,looking forward to the bash vid.
The videos of what you have bean doing that's a nice touch to,looking forward to the bash vid.
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #58
I tried to take it out today, went to the bmx track, had a cameraman.... and my rx battery is having issues... it's going on the table shortly. Had some luck last couple days with soldering joints and such. I took my electric too after finding a broken/unsoldered motor wire. another wire let go today... I had to fix 2 of my 3s lipos as it had a tab break inside... guess I am bashing too hard LOL
I did make the super big long jump beyond the other one I did today. kids on bikes were worried we'd get in their way. Pretty soon they were standing underneath the jumps as I flew over. got the one today about 7 times and it's about 40 feet wide.. up like 25 feet... awesome fun. I love my big scales but would never give up on my brushless sc. it takes a good thrashing.
anyway. I'll have it out tomorrow. I don't work again until tomorrow night so we'll hit the track. we both had issues. his mgt 3 of 4 shocks on back popped the caps and his tranny wasn't shifting.. so we are doing another wrench night and going tomorrow
I did make the super big long jump beyond the other one I did today. kids on bikes were worried we'd get in their way. Pretty soon they were standing underneath the jumps as I flew over. got the one today about 7 times and it's about 40 feet wide.. up like 25 feet... awesome fun. I love my big scales but would never give up on my brushless sc. it takes a good thrashing.
anyway. I'll have it out tomorrow. I don't work again until tomorrow night so we'll hit the track. we both had issues. his mgt 3 of 4 shocks on back popped the caps and his tranny wasn't shifting.. so we are doing another wrench night and going tomorrow
renbar
Well-Known Member
pipe was reading your bit about using lipos sounds good what do i need to get to use this set up ie what a good set up been looking on the bay but im a bit lost as to what bec i need lipo volts how many cells ect and what sort of charger there tons on ebay most in hong kong any advise would be great
pipeous
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #60
I get most of my stuff from hobby king http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_index.asp
they sell lipos, chargers, bec's etc and cheapest around. I run a 2200 mah 3s lipo with a castle bec in the Nutech, but I have a couple 8-15 amp bec's coming from hobbyking to try next. the hextronik charger is cheap and simple. it charges each cel individually through the balance plug. then you can leave it all hooked up inside and just have the balance plug hanging out to top it off... so simple and was what $25? I use it more than my digital screen fancy charger tbh
in the semi I have more room so I tossed a 2650 mah 3s lipo and a castle bec. I like the fact it puts out the same voltage beginning to end. always 6v so servos and such are consistent. with a nmh pack you will have more power when fresh and less as it drains.
my radios are going lipo now too... $15 for a decent 3s lipo or $25 for good aa's? same deal, leave the balance plug hanging out and top it when needed.
I began racing in electric but went to nitros as it was longer running and such. now with technology, lipos are cheaper, last longer, no memory effect, lighter, smaller... it's a win all around... well except when you have wiring troubles hehe
they sell lipos, chargers, bec's etc and cheapest around. I run a 2200 mah 3s lipo with a castle bec in the Nutech, but I have a couple 8-15 amp bec's coming from hobbyking to try next. the hextronik charger is cheap and simple. it charges each cel individually through the balance plug. then you can leave it all hooked up inside and just have the balance plug hanging out to top it off... so simple and was what $25? I use it more than my digital screen fancy charger tbh
in the semi I have more room so I tossed a 2650 mah 3s lipo and a castle bec. I like the fact it puts out the same voltage beginning to end. always 6v so servos and such are consistent. with a nmh pack you will have more power when fresh and less as it drains.
my radios are going lipo now too... $15 for a decent 3s lipo or $25 for good aa's? same deal, leave the balance plug hanging out and top it when needed.
I began racing in electric but went to nitros as it was longer running and such. now with technology, lipos are cheaper, last longer, no memory effect, lighter, smaller... it's a win all around... well except when you have wiring troubles hehe