Been a while since I updated this thread... I stripped my buggy down to the chassis yesterday and installed 3 alloy dif cases and the front cvd's (I guess we should call these universals, technically they are uni's and not cvd's but hey)...
I did the center case first and had to take it apart 3 times... if you plan on doing the case upgrade, take 2 minutes and open the cases, take a fine round file and clean up the edges of the slot the internal gear pin rides in. I went around and smoothed of the edges. I found after I built mine the first time I was getting some binding... I looked and looked. I tried adding extra this and that, third time I decided to clean the dif out again and found some small metal flashing in the gears from machining... after a quick cleaning file and put back together, they bolted up just fine and were smooth... no diddling around. so I say again, file the groove and clean out any small flashing... it will save you my headaches...
next was the front end. Just take your time when doing the front or rear difs. the spring behind the pin in the output shafts can be a little tricky. I used an allen wrench just smaller than the spring, went in on an angle and pushed the spring below the hole so I could slide the pin in with needlenose pliers... go slow and make sure you get the pin hooking the spring... the one in the outer gear is easier to deal with... this case went together without much of a hitch and is very smooth.
I added the universals next. my first time through, I got everything bolted up and wow was it binding up bad... I popped the upper arm off, straightened the universal and wacked the end with a screwdriver handle... the bearing in the knuckle seated in properly and solved the issue... I was sure I had pushed it in far enough... so if things are binding, take a look at the bearing... I had to reduce the downtravel with the droop setscrew in the lower arm about 3-4mm to ensure there was a nice free spin without any binding. to me it's a good trade off to the positive..
I decided to do the mesh mod to my motor casing while it was out. I take bodyworking mesh from canadian tire to do mine. it has one side a little sticky so you can cut and place it. I use JB quik (fast drying jb weld) to holed it to the case. I forgot to take pics while the motor was out, but here's a couple pics with it in to show what I mean. you cover the openings in the bottom of the motor to keep pebbles out. one pebble can get in there, take out a flywheel fin, which starts a chain reaction and usually takes out more. then you need a flywheel to replace the wobby one.
by the time I got to the back dif it was getting late. I had to work today but needed to clean up the kitchen table or I'd get the usual attitude in the morning LOL... those bloody springs... I slipped off the spring, it flew out and hit my left eyebrow (I had actually taken my glasses with safety lenses off as my eyes were tired and got lucky there)... I had to do the crawl on my hands and search the carpet for the spring... also wear eye protection when doing these dif changes haha.
today I made a lid for an fg radio box which I put in to hold my rx,
bec and kill switch. looks much better than the tupperware
