Option on a new engine build

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This is a esp race port engine, not a stock zenoah and the compression has been raised. I know obr (when you select the high octane option) raises the compression to 14:1. So its probably around there If Doug is saying you need 100 octane. Email to confirm this.
 
Z.hb71 said:
This is a esp race port engine, not a stock zenoah and the compression has been raised. I know obr (when you select the high octane option) raises the compression to 14:1. So its probably around there If Doug is saying you need 100 octane. Email to confirm this.
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Yea ordering an engine that’s built to run on 100 is a different story. And there’s no way an esp race port has more compression than a pump gas obr 34 signature series
 
I'd recomend the v2 case, no need for a mesh mod if you do. My understanding is they are a touch better in all aspects
 
misterleon said:
Dude it’s a $250 toy engine not a $25000 race engine. The compression ratio isn’t high enough to warrant using high octane gas it’s not about recommendations or preferences it’s just simple facts. A g320 has a compression ratio of about 9.2:1. Which is below the recommended compression ratio for an engine running on 87 which is 9.3:1 or less. An engine running 100 octane should have at least 12:1 compression. Running 100 in a zenoah 2 stroke will not give you any benefits over running 87. Not sure what’s wrong with you but it’s definitely not nothing🤣
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How do you know what the compression actually is on his setup or what Doug has done? I know of some customers whose Zens they run they have to run 100ll or race gas in them. To single an engine out without knowing all the details or what has actually been done to it is crazy to tell someone what they need to run versus what someone who built or modded the engine has done to it and recommends high octane fuel.
 
TODD said:
How do you know what the compression actually is on his setup or what Doug has done? I know of some customers whose Zens they run they have to run 100ll or race gas in them. To single an engine out without knowing all the details or what has actually been done to it is crazy to tell someone what they need to run versus what someone who built or modded the engine has done to it and recommends high octane fuel.
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I’ve had esp engines before. they are fantastic engines for the price. The difference in performance between a stock g320, esp 32 and Bartolone 32 or obr 32 is negligible and none of them will require 100 octane fuel. Run 87, 95 or c12 and they will all perform the same and give you the same engine life. Increasing the octane may make you feel cool because your buying expensive fuel for your race engine but at the end of the day it’s just a waste of money. I will save us the continued back and forth and we can agree to disagree
 
Depends how hard you are pushing them too. I have seen people claim how fast they are or what not until you actually see them run. Than it like.. Yeah if you by yourself than YES you do seem fast. Here is thing and going to be long. 1990 building 1/4 scale r/c cars. We using G2d Zens are 50:1 ratio on oil fuel. 1/4 scale starts fading out and Baja than has the buggy that now is becoming super popular loved. We start building our first engines for marine use. Made them to last and be like generator engines that would last for people. Engines liked 32:1 ratio same as what the early G2d Zens were using when people cut off the air cooled fins and made cooling jackets for them. More oil is needed to get them to survive. We now come out with a setup that allows Zens to be converted to our 25cc engines with more power than the Zen with the options builders loved being able to buy liners of different port timings for them to be able to change. Zen catches up again and now making more power. We still continue on with the engine with improvements and now they need 12:1 oil ratio to survive. Zens same thing. This goes on for awhile until we make the newest version. Now you still have to run 12:1 oil but we also have a low and high compression head button for it. Externally you would not tell the difference until you take off water cooling cover. By this time I not running boats anymore and start dragging out my old cars to run. Got a Baja that sat assembled forever. Than the Losi and same thing. Got the bug to want to run again. Got electric than started running road coarse. Finally figured let's run the gassers. So I run engine like Losi claimed for oil mix. Seized engine up. Fix damage and seize again. Tried oils car guys were claiming worked good. Now 320s come out. Same thing only worse with them. Grabbed my boat fuel can after me and owner talking about issue having. Now I am running 12:1 (10 oz per gallon of oil.) No more seizures. I am running oval with it. Meaning I am on the throttle pretty much wide open for long times. During the time I was having issues I started watching videos of the car guys running. Mostly wide open run than putt putt putt and than wide open again. Low oil works fine for them because engine is not under constant loading and has a breather to cool down. Me being I hit it wide open and only blip for a quick second in the corners is got the engine running hard and making lots of heat. The minute you guys chop throttle the engine will go from 450 degrees to 350 instant. That is why when you temp gun it when you bring it in you see 350 F. So after I get engine issue sorted I start melting the plastic housing where the pinion bearings run. They could not take the heat. So I had to fix that issue and now they survive. Got bored and put one of our marine engines in the truck. So instead of now running 18,000 to 19,000 rpm constant. I now have more power but in same setup running 21,500 to 22,500 rpm. Now I melted out the center diff housing because of the bearings they use which are not rated for what I am doing. Modified R/C has the up rights with bigger bearings which is what is needed. So if we go by your thinking I should still be running 4 or 5 oz per gallon of oil. That why I said it depends on the setup and how it being ran. Can he run lower octane in it? Maybe if he kinda guy that just putts around or does quick straight line passes. But if he runs constant or long runs than he will need the higher octane. Another example is: How is he running it? We had a customer send us a 30 minute long video of him with the engine chasing his full size boat and running wide open the whole time on the water because it was smooth. Now this was the first time we seen that because most guys run oval. Now think of how popular the side by sides are so people can be doing long distance with the rc cars. If you get a guy with paddles on his car or truck running in the dunes loading it hard wide open for long lengths. He will need the higher fuel too help with detonation and more oil. So YES. we each can have an agree or disagree thing. But without knowing how he driving or the kind of driving he will do? Will make it hard to give info on to if he is safe with low octane or needs to bump it up.
 
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niz55 said:
So I guess the picture on ddm website is wrong. This is the one I got. I am very happy. Looks fantastic.
View attachment 77029
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Nice that’s a sweet case
TODD said:
Depends how hard you are pushing them too. I have seen people claim how fast they are or what not until you actually see them run. Than it like.. Yeah if you by yourself than YES you do seem fast. Here is thing and going to be long. 1990 building 1/4 scale r/c cars. We using G2d Zens are 50:1 ratio on oil fuel. 1/4 scale starts fading out and Baja than has the buggy that now is becoming super popular loved. We start building our first engines for marine use. Made them to last and be like generator engines that would last for people. Engines liked 32:1 ratio same as what the early G2d Zens were using when people cut off the air cooled fins and made cooling jackets for them. More oil is needed to get them to survive. We now come out with a setup that allows Zens to be converted to our 25cc engines with more power than the Zen with the options builders loved being able to buy liners of different port timings for them to be able to change. Zen catches up again and now making more power. We still continue on with the engine with improvements and now they need 12:1 oil ratio to survive. Zens same thing. This goes on for awhile until we make the newest version. Now you still have to run 12:1 oil but we also have a low and high compression head button for it. Externally you would not tell the difference until you take off water cooling cover. By this time I not running boats anymore and start dragging out my old cars to run. Got a Baja that sat assembled forever. Than the Losi and same thing. Got the bug to want to run again. Got electric than started running road coarse. Finally figured let's run the gassers. So I run engine like Losi claimed for oil mix. Seized engine up. Fix damage and seize again. Tried oils car guys were claiming worked good. Now 320s come out. Same thing only worse with them. Grabbed my boat fuel can after me and owner talking about issue having. Now I am running 12:1 (10 oz per gallon of oil.) No more seizures. I am running oval with it. Meaning I am on the throttle pretty much wide open for long times. During the time I was having issues I started watching videos of the car guys running. Mostly wide open run than putt putt putt and than wide open again. Low oil works fine for them because engine is not under constant loading and has a breather to cool down. Me being I hit it wide open and only blip for a quick second in the corners is got the engine running hard and making lots of heat. The minute you guys chop throttle the engine will go from 450 degrees to 350 instant. That is why when you temp gun it when you bring it in you see 350 F. So after I get engine issue sorted I start melting the plastic housing where the pinion bearings run. They could not take the heat. So I had to fix that issue and now they survive. Got bored and put one of our marine engines in the truck. So instead of now running 18,000 to 18,000 rpm constant. I now have more power but in same setup running 21,500 to 22,500 rpm. Now I melted out the center diff housing because of the bearings they use which are not rated for what I am doing. Modified R/C has the up rights with bigger bearings which is what is needed. So if we go by your thinking I should still be running 4 or 5 oz per gallon of oil. That why I said it depends on the setup and how it being ran. Can he run lower octane in it? Maybe if he kinda guy that just putts around or does quick straight line passes. But if he runs constant or long runs than he will need the higher octane. Another example is: How is he running it? We had a customer send us a 30 minute long video of him with the engine chasing his full size boat and running wide open the whole time on the water because it was smooth. Now this was the first time we seen that because most guys run oval. Now think of how popular the side by sides are so people can be doing long distance with the rc cars. If you get a guy with paddles on his car or truck running in the dunes loading it hard wide open for long lengths. He will need the higher fuel too help with detonation and more oil. So YES. we each can have an agree or disagree thing. But without knowing how he driving or the kind of driving he will do? Will make it hard to give info on to if he is safe with low octane or needs to bump it up.
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I’ll say this, it’s your hobby and your allowed to do whatever you want. I understand running different oil ratios depending on use. sacrificing some power to try to get the engine to run cooler and have more longevity makes sense.
 
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Sorry for jumping in late but I've been told a long time ago higher octane is needed for higher compression and or more advanced timing. I run c12 lately in my stuff because I can and I'd rather toss $100 bill to keep my engines in my rigs longer and honestly with seeing how crooked the world is getting I buy gas in store bought cans why do you think the state goes around checking the octane levels at gas stations? Just because you hit the button for something doesn't mean your getting it plus it also eliminates the possibility of having water or any other contamination in the gas plus I stay away from ethanol at all costs... plus also I was told adding oil to the gas knocks the octane down a few points

Not bashing anyone it just my view on gas
 
Rep732 said:
Sorry for jumping in late but I've been told a long time ago higher octane is needed for higher compression and or more advanced timing. I run c12 lately in my stuff because I can and I'd rather toss $100 bill to keep my engines in my rigs longer and honestly with seeing how crooked the world is getting I buy gas in store bought cans why do you think the state goes around checking the octane levels at gas stations? Just because you hit the button for something doesn't mean your getting it plus it also eliminates the possibility of having water or any other contamination in the gas plus I stay away from ethanol at all costs... plus also I was told adding oil to the gas knocks the octane down a few points

Not bashing anyone it just my view on gas
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Really depends on where you are in the world and company you use.

Ive run high performance real cars all my life, some of them tuned, octane is super important when the tolerances get tight. Depending on the ECU and what sensors you run, plus engine type, some engines will retard timing on detection of detonation due to low octane or poor fuel. The others just shite their pants and go home leaving you with a big bill.

For the sake of a few quid, bucks whatever you want to call it, just run the best fuel you can you can’t go wrong then. If you want to be a cheap ass and risk shite for the sake of $0.10 keep it to yourself. People should always recommend the best with stuff like this, it’s the same with oil.
 
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