RickDizzle's Raminator Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No use your stock diff, drill out the broken screw starting with a smaller drill bit then step up to the size you need. I kept the m4s just went a longer length with a nylock nut on the back sides. Go to my post in this thread, #153 it will show you what I did. My final bit size was 11/64 using the m4. I was afraid I would struggle getting an m5 nut on the other side but appears is doable based on what spirospro said.
 
If drilling the M4 bolt and wanting to keep the M4 thread you'll need to keep the drill bit size below 3.3mm as that's the tapping size.
M5 tapping drill size is 4.2mm.
If your drilling clearance hole for M4 try the 4.2mm drill bit, 5.5mm for M5.
 
KevTrem said:
If drilling the M4 bolt and wanting to keep the M4 thread you'll need to keep the drill bit size below 3.3mm as that's the tapping size.
M5 tapping drill size is 4.2mm.
If your drilling clearance hole for M4 try the 4.2mm drill bit, 5.5mm for M5.
Click to expand...
Yeah I drilled a clearance hole to slide the countersunk screw through. I didnt have metric bits so used that 11/64 which roughly converted to 4.3mm seemed to work for my application.

I do have a question. I ran Hillman M4 countersunk screws I got from my local Ace. They can not tell me what they are grade wise, but called Hillman and they said they are grade 8 or 12.9s. That doesn't convert right as grade 8 it would be a 10.9 strength in metric. You guys think I will have issues on the stock engine running them if they are grade 8 / 10.9? I was under the impression that is automotive grade and is good to go. Now this 12.9 has me second guessing lol.
 
Last edited:
RickDizzle said:
No use your stock diff, drill out the broken screw starting with a smaller drill bit then step up to the size you need. I kept the m4s just went a longer length with a nylock nut on the back sides. Go to my post in this thread, #153 it will show you what I did. My final bit size was 11/64 using the m4. I was afraid I would struggle getting an m5 nut on the other side but appears is doable based on what spirospro said.
Click to expand...
Thanks alot.
 
RickDizzle said:
Yeah I drilled a clearance hole to slide the countersunk screw through. I didnt have metric bits so used that 11/64 which roughly converted to 4.3mm seemed to work for my application.

I do have a question. I ran Hillman M4 countersunk screws I got from my local Ace. They can not tell me what they are grade wise, but called Hillman and they said they are grade 8 or 12.9s. That doesn't convert right as grade 8 it would be a 10.9 strength in metric. You guys think I will have issues on the stock engine running them if they are grade 8 / 10.9? I was under the impression that is automotive grade and is good to go. Now this 12.9 has me second guessing lol.
Click to expand...
With the stock engine your prob ok
On my diffs the screws were a bit loose but none broke
I think they break once they get loose enough to cause the diff to wobble and bind up. They won’t get loose doing the mod so should be good
I didn’t do the diff mod on mine and just put in the Taylor engine so will see how long it lasts before it piles up lol
Should get new diffs and gears on order for when the inevitable happens
I wonder if JS performance or Tayler can make an upgraded diff cup that uses bigger bolts the stock setup is pretty bad with those tiny bolts that are only good for 1/8 scale
 
deathrawt said:
With the stock engine your prob ok
On my diffs the screws were a bit loose but none broke
I think they break once they get loose enough to cause the diff to wobble and bind up. They won’t get loose doing the mod so should be good
I didn’t do the diff mod on mine and just put in the Taylor engine so will see how long it lasts before it piles up lol
Should get new diffs and gears on order for when the inevitable happens
I wonder if JS performance or Tayler can make an upgraded diff cup that uses bigger bolts the stock setup is pretty bad with those tiny bolts that are only good for 1/8 scale
Click to expand...
You can drill the diffs for m5 screws
 
Yeah if mike can make us modded diffs, I am in! The mod isnt that bad to do. You take off only a little bit from the diff case itself. I was super worried about going through, but came nowhere near. That was with M4 nylock nuts...Spirospros used M5s even.
 
Had a chance to run the beast today. Got a solid 40 mins in, ran just over 3/4 tank. The difference in stability is for sure noticeable. Handles very well. Was doing figure 8 and oval speed run practice, as that is what Mrs. Dizzle and my daughter like to race with their rigs. The rear steer has cut its turn radius to almost nothing. Still have to be careful at speed going into a corner, just a tad to much steering and on the asphalt, she bites in and wants to throw itself over. She is gonna be a donut beast in the dirt! I was by myself so just snagged a couple pics post the run cooling her down before going back to the stable lol. 🏁🏁
20211214_130727.jpg
20211214_130756.jpg
 
Sadly no. Been running by myself as of late. My daughter, who is usually my running buddy is in school during the day when I have been running, as my days off changed for the holiday season. I don't have a GoPro or anything so would have to record and upload with my phone. Hope to get some soon and set up a YouTube channel or something. 😁
 
Truck looks good with the duel shocks and long wheelbase!
I might get the LWB kit for mine at a later date
on a side note Mike T responded to my e mail to him and he answered a few questions I had about his engine and also confirmed that new diff cups are in the works so that is good news
 
deathrawt said:
Truck looks good with the duel shocks and long wheelbase!
I might get the LWB kit for mine at a later date
on a side note Mike T responded to my e mail to him and he answered a few questions I had about his engine and also confirmed that new diff cups are in the works so that is good news
Click to expand...
Nice dude...however, my pocket book hates you lol! 🤦‍♂️😂😂💸💸
 
RickDizzle said:
Had a chance to run the beast today. Got a solid 40 mins in, ran just over 3/4 tank. The difference in stability is for sure noticeable. Handles very well. Was doing figure 8 and oval speed run practice, as that is what Mrs. Dizzle and my daughter like to race with their rigs. The rear steer has cut its turn radius to almost nothing. Still have to be careful at speed going into a corner, just a tad to much steering and on the asphalt, she bites in and wants to throw itself over. She is gonna be a donut beast in the dirt! I was by myself so just snagged a couple pics post the run cooling her down before going back to the stable lol. 🏁🏁
View attachment 79789
View attachment 79790
Click to expand...
Now I want one ;(
 
Yesterday I made up a nice inline fuse for between my Lipo and the Raminator's switch. Installed it and ran the truck for a good while. Running a 15amp fuse and no issues, even with the rear steer. I was concerned running 7 servos on the truck would easily blow a 15amp. But no issues at all. Couple pics:20220111_141815.jpg
20220111_143012.jpg

Tonight my V3 body arrived! So I couldn't resist tossing it in for a few pics.
20220113_004145.jpg
20220113_004155.jpg
20220113_004228.jpg
20220113_004057.jpg
20220113_004044.jpg
20220113_004728.jpg

I really like the newer style body and the limited amount of decals that might eventually lift. I was super excited that the Primal team was willing to sell me a complete body/cage and all now. This is an extra they had from their prototypes that was never used. V3 bodies and parts should be available mid February. But you can get full V3 rigs now.

I plan to get the black axle bumpers and the grey beadlocks for sure as soon as they are available. Thinking about getting the black middle frames too, just not sure yet.

I will be keeping my red accents, gas cap, receiver box, pull start handle and red suspension. This will all match my red steering servos, as I do not plan on changing them at the moment.

It should be noted, Primal is discontinuing the V2 red parts. They have a good amount in stock, but will be going to the V3 black, silver and blue parts. So if you want red, should get on it soon.

I always value you guy's opinions, what ya think? Once I change to the black bumpers and grey beadlocks, should I go to the black frame centers or keep red? Also anything else I should swap out to ensure the new body flows with the chassis?

I appreciate the feedback!🏁🏁
 
Last edited:
Back
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks