RickDizzle's Raminator Build

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Yes I am running the JS shock mounts. Not sure what you mean as far as movement. If you are referring to flex or give in the shock mount post. There is none that I have ever seen. They are so much beefier then the Primal stock ones. Here is a side by side pic.
20201017_212713.jpg

Should also note, I ditched the plastic bushing on top and run these from JS as well in combination with their shock mounts.

https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/product-page/primal-mt-shock-absorber-alloy-mounting-bush-4pkt

This is how it looks installed.
20201026_214024.jpg
 
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RickDizzle said:
Intresting to hear. They use Dunlop heims, and all my steering ones and swaybar links work great. I did add dry lube to each one and worked them a lil by hand prior to install to make sure fluid movement..but thus far no issues. Will keep an eye out for sure. 👍👍
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I'm unsure the brand of the heim ends they are using on the vektas JS links, but definitely seem of less quality. I checked the dunlop brand and the sites that offer their links, they definitely look like more of a quality piece. When I do replace any heims, I use FK brand. I run them on my other big toys and have had zero complaints. I know @Haric made some super serious HD links with nice mcmaster Carr heims for John's Ram. I'll be starting my Ram when the snow starts to fly and hopefully can persuade him to make another set.
 
Yeah super weird...but for sure they are Dunlop on the Raminator bits. They list as such in their item description as seen here...

https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/product-page/primal-mt-steering-links-long-pair

And mine say Dunlop right on them. Maybe they went with "higher quality" due to the fact of the Raminator size and weight? 🤷‍♂
And yeah Haric made some MONSTER size 4 links for John. Those are really nice as it gets rid of the stock huge gap on the stock 4 links. That is one thing I have not upgraded yet...see how big the gaps are...
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RickDizzle said:
Yes I am running the JS shock mounts. Not sure what you mean as far as movement. If you are referring to flex or give in the shock mount post. There is none that I have ever seen. They are so much beefier then the Primal stock ones. Here is a side by side pic.
View attachment 78759

Should also note, I ditched the plastic bushing on top and run these from JS as well in combination with their shock mounts.

https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/product-page/primal-mt-shock-absorber-alloy-mounting-bush-4pkt

This is how it looks installed.
View attachment 78761
Click to expand...

Very nice. I haven't got my 4 links yet, told haric to take his time as I was in no rush
 
Have you noticed any accelerated wear on the upper shock bushings as your running metal on metal as opposed to the plastic ones?
I was thinking about some of the other JS upgrades for the ram. I have the body mount front and side pieces just not sure if the shock parts (bushings, mounts spring perches, ect) are worth it other then the fact that they look killer
I do like those lower 4 link bars though!
The only mod i did with my shocks was to drill the shock pistons bigger to prevent fluid pound from bending the shafts when landing from jumps, Seems to work pretty good. I was taking some pretty decent jumps at a friends track with no shock damage
 
I have not noticed any issues with mine so far at all and its been about a year and 6 gallons through the rig. I honestly have nothing but good things to say about all my JS parts. I think I have basically everything from them minus the gas tank, receiver box, spiked nuts, 4 links, chassis cross bars and wheel wideners.
The aluminum perches and spring separators make it look much better in my opinion. I have noticed however that due to it being aluminum on aluminum, they like to wear on the outter case of the shock as seen here.
20211024_181520.jpg

Not sure if the plastic ones do the same, as ran the JS ones from the start. You can really only see that wear when my truck is sitting on the stand with the suspension drooped out all the way. Been thinking about getting the 4 links as I cant stand the huge gaps on the stock ones.
Great idea opening up the shock piston holes a bit! I have been blessed with not bending a shock yet. Not sure if its due to running the duel set up or if I don't go as hard as some of you guys lol.
The only issue I have, is backing out and cracking of the plastic "bushing" in the lower shock mount hollow balls.
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And Primal only sells the entire rod end for like $12...when I really only need the .50 cent plastic insert...smh.
 
I will have to check those lower plastic bushings, didn't think they would back out and break like that
If they are a weak area then hopefully JS or Tayler or someone can offer an aftermarket solution, maybe the entire ball needs to be made of a good plastic?
I only have a little wear on the shock body from the stock spring separators but you have had the truck longer then me so have more run time on it
Yep those JS parts sure look pretty though :)
 
RickDizzle said:
I have not noticed any issues with mine so far at all and its been about a year and 6 gallons through the rig. I honestly have nothing but good things to say about all my JS parts. I think I have basically everything from them minus the gas tank, receiver box, spiked nuts, 4 links, chassis cross bars and wheel wideners.
The aluminum perches and spring separators make it look much better in my opinion. I have noticed however that due to it being aluminum on aluminum, they like to wear on the outter case of the shock as seen here.
View attachment 78773

Not sure if the plastic ones do the same, as ran the JS ones from the start. You can really only see that wear when my truck is sitting on the stand with the suspension drooped out all the way. Been thinking about getting the 4 links as I cant stand the huge gaps on the stock ones.
Great idea opening up the shock piston holes a bit! I have been blessed with not bending a shock yet. Not sure if its due to running the duel set up or if I don't go as hard as some of you guys lol.
The only issue I have, is backing out and cracking of the plastic "bushing" in the lower shock mount hollow balls.
View attachment 78774
View attachment 78775
And Primal only sells the entire rod end for like $12...when I really only need the .50 cent plastic insert...smh.
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You should really use the plastic spacers on your shocks, derlin would be ideal, but even nylon would eat your shock bodies up like that.
 
its awesome bro the only thing you need is another engine. i have rebuild all stock engine with flat head piston cnc gaskets 19mm carb performance carbon reed plus performance rocket key with much better overall result and top speed 39km. On 10s conversion brussless top speed was 46km on stock gears and i have to count on 12s & 15s lipos.
 
Sounds like you had better luck modding the stock engine then I did
Tried the carbon reed, fiberglass reed, cut down the reed stopper block all with minimal gains
Then went to a 4 petal reed block with spacer and manifold to work with a wt style carb
It did help but still wasn’t great
I even tried a stage 3 four port engine and it was still a dog! Lol
Did not do the rocket key mod though
Never could get the stock engine to rev past 11k rpm mostly ran around 10-10.5
I really wished that primal had gone with a better engine in the truck considering it’s price point
Got a 50gt on the way so I’m done with the stock engine for now!
 
deathrawt said:
Sounds like you had better luck modding the stock engine then I did
Tried the carbon reed, fiberglass reed, cut down the reed stopper block all with minimal gains
Then went to a 4 petal reed block with spacer and manifold to work with a wt style carb
It did help but still wasn’t great
I even tried a stage 3 four port engine and it was still a dog! Lol
Did not do the rocket key mod though
Never could get the stock engine to rev past 11k rpm mostly ran around 10-10.5
I really wished that primal had gone with a better engine in the truck considering it’s price point
Got a 50gt on the way so I’m done with the stock engine for now!
Click to expand...
I think you did the best value for money choice. To tell the truth im lookong for the axl 85cc and after that i finished with that. Im happy with the brushless kit on 15s is a beast but all the time im looking for more and more...
 
RickDizzle said:
Got down today on starting to service the axle prior to the rear steer install. Here is the axle out and naked lol.
View attachment 77921

If and when you service the axles...use heat to remove the bolts holding the axle halves together. They were heavily loctited in place and as my luck even with heat..snapped a head off. An hour later...got it out and moving on to the diff. I cleaned the axle "pumpkin" really good and got my fast Eddys grease ready. Cleaned up the diff itself and was like wow three of the screws on the diff are really loose. Well turns out, one was loose the other 2 were snapped off inside the diff and only being held by a couple threads.
View attachment 77922
View attachment 77923
Thank heavens these never backed out and ate up my gears in the axle. The way they are broke off so deep and as that they are in aluminum, tried to save the diff and get them out to no win. Just messing up the holes on the diff itself. Also found it interesting the diff was basically empty with nothing inside...its wet as if it had diff grease/oil in it. I bet its due to the diff not being sealed due to the broken screws and leaking out. So at a stopping point for now. Really sucks. But glad I found this issue before they came loose and ate up my axle gears! More to come down the road fellas!
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I had that same problem, went threw 4 differentials, got to the point I drove up to Primal rc with the broken screws. They said they never seen that before I had bad luck. I said not 4 times and only had the truck at the time for 14 days. They replaced it, but now I'm back with the problem again with no front wheel drive. SMH. $3,000 for problem after problem from differentials or remote kill switch wire harness.
 
Sorry your luck has been rough man. The diff fix here should get you back up and running. Also they sell just the housing for like 30 bucks if you need just that vs spending 90 for a whole new diff. Once you do this diff mod, I am confident you won't see the issue anymore. Also while your in there...you might as well add the brass bushing between the bearings. This helps takes the stress off them.
 
For the differential mod, what size screw and
RickDizzle said:
Ok so last couple days put some work in. I did like @John Parks suggested and drilled out the holes in the diff case. Used 11/16 bit and drilled out each hole. Then carefully ground down the outer case of the diff for the four nylon lock nuts. I fully cleaned out the diff, refilled it with 20k diff oil and reassembled it. I then put it back in and did the brass bushing mod as I originally intended to do. Nicely coated the gears with Fast Eddys and sealed it up.
View attachment 78010
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One thing I found with this rear steer kit is it appears they substituted some of the button head style screws for socket cap style. Also was missing a couple screws. 4 total. As being as I am super OCD, I ran to my local Ace Hardware and picked up all the hardware to ensure it all matched the front and the couple I was missing. Got the bulk of the rear steer done. I ended up having an issue with the servo saver assembly as it is aluminum. I didnt put on the required O-ring as it was missing, and I missed it. So after assembling, I went back to disassemble so I could throw an o-ring on...horrible idea. It bound up and stripped. 🤦‍♂️
View attachment 78012
I also found that I must have smacked my rear disc brake on a rock while bashing as my brake disk is bent thus causing bad wear on my pads lol. Then to top off my testing of patience, as I was installing the rear end, one of the shock shafts pulled out. The screw holding the piston to the shaft backed out and it pulled right out. So I am going to rebuild all 8 shocks. Lastly, the shock ends that support the ball link are threaded plastic. Couple are backing out and I found a cracked one. So going to replace them as well as needed. This was going to be my winter rebuild but doing it now for sake of sanity and knowing its done right. Once I get it back together fully, do a few fun runs with the new rear steer, going to rebuild the front diff with the diff mod and brass spacer.
So until my next Primal order arrives...this is how she sits now. 😁
View attachment 78013
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On a solid note, got the 7PXR all programmed up for 4ws, wire covered with expandable wire cover all the servo wires and got every cleaned up and nice to look stock. New servos are working great on the new receiver. Just need the servo saver so I can tie up the last few links of the steering.
🏁🏁
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For the differential mod, what size screw and length you used. Also what size brass bushing is that.
 
Responded back in the other thread sorry. I am at work for next 10 hours and can check screw size when I get home later. Just needs to fit with no play and be just long enough to go through the diff parts and the nylon lock nut with just a tad sticking out. After you drill it to 11/64 you can take the diff with you and grab what works at the hardware store if trying to do it today. That is what I did. Also the bushings are these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HSSVWST?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
 
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RickDizzle said:
Responded back in the other thread sorry. I am at work for next 10 hours and can check screw size when I get home later. Just needs to fit with no play and be just long enough to go through the diff parts and the nylon lock nut with just a tad sticking out. After you drill it to 11/64 you can take the diff with you and grab what works at the hardware store if trying to do it today. That is what I did. Also the bushings are these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HSSVWST?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Click to expand...
@Shakidd7 , I measured it and its an m4 counter sunk screw that is 25mm long full length including the head or 22mm if you just measure the threaded area as seen.20211031_212106.jpg
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Sorry for the delay brother...gotta work to pay for these beasts.

Side note, use an 11/64 bit to drill it out...NOT 11/16...that was a typo by me and would be a huge issue. No way you could drill it out that big...but wanted to correct it to save people headaches who do this mod.
 
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Today was blessed to attend my daughter's jujitsu bbq and promotion. Then spent a lil time on the Raminator. Installed the new JS Performance wheel wideners. Really like how it sits!
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Can see how much wider they are versus the factory hex hub.
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Looking good installed.
20211106_161833.jpg
You can see how much wider it makes the truck. Back is installed front is stock.
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Both front and rear installed.
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Sitting with a new wider stance looking fresh.
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My next two days off in a row, I will be doing all "annual" maintenance to the front like I did the rear. Rebuilding all four shocks, opening the axle, doing the diff mod, brass bushing mod and such. Also looking to add the extended wheelbase kit after talking with @Spirospros and seeing how it looks on his rig. Probably swoop that around Black Friday when its in sale since it not a need. Lol. Save a few bucks. 😂🏁🏁
 
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