Xrc rc-2

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Bong-Master said:
Yes it would , providing that the breaks & the bell housing fits on the other side you can go direct belt replacing the 24t/40t gears. Going direct belt the way it is atm it would drive in reverse all the time.

The 24t goes anti clockwise witch turns the 40t clock wise witch makes the little pinion gear go clockwise thus making the diff gear rotate anti clockwise making the wheels drive forward.

hope it makes sence
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Yes I know what you mean! I assume it would be toothed pulleys & belt to avoid slippage & allow you to change the gearing as you can now by changing the pinion / spur?
 
Oh yes!! toothed pulleys like a cam belt & pulley, i was looking at v-belts as these some times are better with regards to a stone or something getting stuck in the pinion/diff it will slip saving the pinion/diff from stripping, but then on a wet day there is bout 70% chance that it would keep slipping each time it gets wet.

At the moment i can't do anything to the buggy until nitrotek support get back to me on weather they will send out another set of gear's or weather i have to send back to them but there support is so slow 6 day's I've been waiting for a reply & 4 of them days there phone just ring's & ring's & ring's & ring's & ring's.
 
Yeah if you have a vee belt you will have to tighten it more to stop it slipping not just cos of wet weather but the power output of these engines & the rate at which they pick up revs. This in turn will put additional load on your shafts & bearings. Just something to consider! Hope you get sorted with Nitrotek soon!
 
Check out the gears too. Not sure what prices are like for yours but for my FG the 16T pinion gear is half the price of what the model shops sell em for :cool2:
 
@dwarfy nitrotek have replaced the gears & the gear plate under warranty 41 day's they were arguing with me that it was my fault & one of the guys said he was going to repair it in his spare time But on the 42nd day i get a email saying
"quote
The bad news is that having taken a good look at the model the rear end isn't straight and it's impossible to get the gears meshing correctly. End Quote"

They replaced the plastic engine mounts, metal gears

Now that the gears mesh 100% i have the problem of the bolt coming loose from the bell housing that keeps the gear on i have used Loctite & it still came loose well in fact it came out
Is this a Heat issue from the bell housing getting hot & it expanding ? can this be fixed ?


@roofchopper did you do me a list of the fg back end ? if you could it would be much appreciated
 
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plastic carreirs? if so , i would say yes, its getting hot and softening up, allowing the bolt to come out.

if its aluminum and its happening, its likely a torque/twist issue going on.
as the torque goes up, the items want to twist (due to lack of ridigity) thus causes the bolts to start to loosen up. if locktight doesn't hold the bolts tight (keeping thing more rigid) then i would think its a Tolerance issue with the threads in the pieces. either out of spec, or wallowed out from being loose, and seeing the torque/twist motions.

this may very well be a design issue, and not a use issue.

a poor desing will allow excess flex, and parts wont stay tight and together no mater what you do short of pulling out the welder.
 
Timmahh Its all metal that the bolts go into only thing i could do while waiting on a fg back end list is to drill out & re tap it while drilling it out i will go deeper than the 10mm that it has at the moment & possibly go for a bigger size bolt as it has a M5x10 atm so i would thing i could go to about a M8x15 or M8x20 depending on how deep i can safely drill it out to.
 
making the thread larger won't help you, infact it will do the opposite. Making it deeper per-se won't hep as the load is usually carried on the first three threads (in steel), the rest don't do much except provide better locarion. Drilling a clearance at the top of the hole and re-threading the bottom may help, see below for why.

Bolted joints work by stretching the bolt, and when movement occurs in the bolted joint the bolt tension is lost and it starts to unscrew. solutions are:

a) make the bolt stretch more (i.e. do it tighter, anything up to 6Nm should be OK for a low grade M5 if steel on steel. if alu, keep to no more than 3Nm)

b) make the joint longer (use some washers on top of the gear and a longer bolt to get more stretch for the same torque)

c) add something to take up the movement whilst maintaining the end load, like a spring washer (belleville or plain spring washer would do)

d) use secondary locking like loctite (takes 24 hrs to properly cure) or studloc. Could also try positive locking like a split. note that if the threads have a large clearance, loctite won't set as it is anerobic.


Personaly i'd try blue loctite with a spring washer and/or washer stack before re tapping the threads.
 
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Bong-Master said:
Timmahh Its all metal that the bolts go into only thing i could do while waiting on a fg back end list is to drill out & re tap it while drilling it out i will go deeper than the 10mm that it has at the moment & possibly go for a bigger size bolt as it has a M5x10 atm so i would thing i could go to about a M8x15 or M8x20 depending on how deep i can safely drill it out to.
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Hi Bong
Just reading this i found this mod
http://www.youtube.com/user/mathyooo
my bolts came loose and i used blue loc on mine and they've not come loose since.
 
Well the loctite DID NOT work as it spat the bolt out again & the 24t hit me in the ankle.
i used the loctite on it thursday night & took it out yesterday afternoon & only drove 744yds with a max speed of 18mph.
So back to the drawing board any i dears on how to prevent it coming out ( welder is not a option) ?
 
Bong-Master said:
Well the loctite DID NOT work as it spat the bolt out again & the 24t hit me in the ankle.
i used the loctite on it thursday night & took it out yesterday afternoon & only drove 744yds with a max speed of 18mph.
So back to the drawing board any i dears on how to prevent it coming out ( welder is not a option) ?
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Hi Bong
looks like you will need to do some re-threading and use a bigger bolt isn't the 24t gear the one that fit's onto the bellhousing cant remember right now? and if you decide to re-thread might be a good time to do this mod as well
the mod in action
 
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nice 1 rhales it looks as if i will be going down this route :) ill have to sit & listen to what he is saying & take notes as to olt washer sizes :) thanks bud.

Would give a rep/karma point but no button :)
 
Bong-Master said:
nice 1 rhales it looks as if i will be going down this route :) ill have to sit & listen to what he is saying & take notes as to olt washer sizes :) thanks bud.

Would give a rep/karma point but no button :)
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if you go on his youtube channel there's E-mail address i E-mailed him for part no.s and he replied the following:
'you wil need two M5026 get an 5mm bolt cut the head of and use that as you threaded bar' with ref to washer sizes they look to be normal one's.
 
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