Z's HPI Baja PT:2

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mark35 said:
Thats not teal?, teal is a blue green colour
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I'm just saying what I was told ????? I meant coral ffs ?
So since I have waayy too much time on my hands, I decided to regrease my transmission. Needed access to the clutch anyways (to remove the bearings and put new ones in when I get em). I'm glad I did, it was quite dry, I also found a completely FEKD bearing, feker had like .5mm diagonal play (don't know the proper wording) . So I replaced that one too. All back together

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Also discovered something else. This Baja had aftermarket upper rear springs when I got it. No idea who makes em but they are feking stiff. And they are longer. On the full left is stock , middle is ddm HD springs, and all the way right on these unknown springs. Anyone know who might make em? Jus curious. Not going to use em cuz I want to soften the rear end up a lil bit.
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Z.hb71 said:
I'm just saying what I was told ????? I meant coral ffs ?
So since I have waayy too much time on my hands, I decided to regrease my transmission. Needed access to the clutch anyways (to remove the bearings and put new ones in when I get em). I'm glad I did, it was quite dry, I also found a completely FEKD bearing, feker had like .5mm diagonal play (don't know the proper wording) . So I replaced that one too. All back together

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Z ,how is the fitment of the bearings in the trans housing on the spur shaft?
Your trans seems to be quite nasty & old you might want to make sure that the trans case where the bearings
sit in that there is no wollering out!...:unsure:
 
cbaker65 said:
Z ,how is the fitment of the bearings in the trans housing on the spur shaft?
Your trans seems to be quite nasty & old you might want to make sure that the trans case where the bearings
sit in that there is no wollering out!...:unsure:
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It is slightly loose. But the shaft carrier makes up for it and it stays nice and solid. And my last transmission (Rovan) was the same without issues.. So I don't think it will be an issue.
 
Z.hb71 said:
It is slightly loose. But the shaft carrier makes up for it and it stays nice and solid. And my last transmission (Rovan) was the same without issues.. So I don't think it will be an issue.
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This is exactly what gets you in trouble, its lose but it's fine ?. Yes your gear plate may make it feel like it takes the slop out. But realistically the slop is transferred somewhere else or creating stress on all those bearings making them wear much fast AND you guessed it creating heat.
 
John Parks said:
This is exactly what gets you in trouble, its lose but it's fine ?. Yes your gear plate may make it feel like it takes the slop out. But realistically the slop is transferred somewhere else or creating stress on all those bearings making them wear much fast AND you guessed it creating heat.
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Yeah true. Only way to fix that is a new transmission case, which I'm not interested in spending 60-120 bucks on aluminum one for now. Sooo it will have to be a bit sloppy for now. Nor do I have any money for anything other than a candy bar ??
 
Z.hb71 said:
what OTHER than bearings can it be :unsure: maybe chassis flex??????
or jus poop gears :whistle::LOL:
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Alright think about it for a minute. What's holding the spur gear and layshaft ? Are you using the Plastic diff case still ? There a lot of parts that put the spur gear where it is in relation to the pinion gear . If any have any play they can make it so that there is either to much play or they can bind. We are only talking a couple thousands of an inch . The bottom plate could be a hair off or even the upper plate that holds the diff case in place.
 
if you got the oversized drive cups and bones check the end play of bones when the chassis has the rear arms level. We have had a few sets of phatdads that the bones where too long and cups cut too shallow, And they where not for the longer a arms ! , You should have some bone play in mid travel and at fully compressed. The bad sets we had here would bind up the drive big time and eat spurs and even blew out cast diff housing on one buggy.
 
killerkevin said:
if you got the oversized drive cups and bones check the end play of bones when the chassis has the rear arms level. We have had a few sets of phatdads that the bones where too long and cups cut too shallow, And they where not for the longer a arms ! , You should have some bone play in mid travel and at fully compressed. The bad sets we had here would bind up the drive big time and eat spurs and even blew out cast diff housing on one buggy.
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Yeah that's all good on my rig. Few mm of play and no binding
 
Does your brake hex have the right backlash ! With your setup with the alum support when all tite does the trans spin free with the pinion off ? You should have a tick of spur gear input shaft play when all it good and tight.
 
well then your spurs dried out! No joke, we keep our hostiles in water to keep them fresh and not brittle. do the same with our weed trimmer line. Plastic does dry out!!!!!!!!!. Who knows how long the hostile spurs have been on a shelf at DDM. after starting to store soak our spurs very few have failed and run much smoother. just toss them all in a tupperware and cover with water and forget about them....It works
 
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