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Great job - I love the rawness of it. Makes me want to build something again!

Hey, I believe the tank is either polyethylene or polypropylene and as such will be difficult to glue. These plastics are naturally resistant to chemicals so that makes it difficult to glue them easily. Special purpose adhesives such as this Scotch-Weld adhesive from 3M are designed for this...

Hmm, maybe if the batt is a bit old...but do you have a servo y-splitter so the servos can source current directly from the battery to see if it is a rx issue. Especially for the large scale servos, it's a good idea to have them plugged directly in.

Yep, if the lights are in the red it's time for a recharge. Like Ducky said, stalled servos pull a lot of current and it can be a combination of the servos, rx and battery that leads to this large voltage drop. What batts are you using? As long as the lights go to green when everything is...

100-3 = 97. Yep, it's still on. Seems like the number of people entering the 50+ post group is an exponential decay...Good things come to those who wait I suppose.

That a real nice area. I was thinking though, for those long computer times you might want to get a cushion for your bike!

I've used cables on some of my custom projects, but only because a rod linkage would have been awkward to implement. They work ok, but need to be adjusted so there's no slack. Whereas rods will push the throttle closed with the servo, if a cable is dirty, it may sometimes get stuck if the return...

Sorry for the loss, man. If by some fluke of nature I see it passing by on the St. Lawrence, I'll know where to send it!

I can assure you that it's not as clean anymore!

What I meant was that if, for the most part, the failsafes have the same features, then the Diemaster one with power cutoff option would be the reason for me buying one.

Yeah, the power cut-off would be the deal breaker in my opinion then...

Not quite sure the diff ebtween the "IHP" one and the TGN one, but from the description they would appear to do the same thing as the Diemaster one - of course the "IHP" one looks a bit bulkier.

Beazel, the voltage for charged cells is around 1.4 volts per cell (these cells are called 1.2 volt cells since their nominal voltage is 1.2 volts). This would end up being near 7 volts for the 5-cell packs you have and 11.2 if your transmitter packs are 8-cell. This'll give you a ballpark...

Thanks! I've realy gotta go and get some more pics soon...

Welcome! You said they're false peaking - if you have a volt meter what's the voltage they get up to after charging? I wonder if this might not be an unbalanced cell problem. It's happened to me a few times but not 4 packs at once :(

I'd have to say when faced with a Redcat/HPI choice, then try to narrow it by asking if you'd prefer an MT or a buggy. If its a buggy, then would 4WD be a deciding factor? I'm not sure about the durability of the Recats as I personally have never seen one. Also, what about aftermarket hop-up...

Yeah, when I saw that the first time I was amazed. Just imagine the rush that would give!

Thanks, I've moddified the light pods and have only two LEDs at the moment. I'm working on some lights for the baja at the moment which should brighten things up a bit!

Got a few pics from my break-in last weekend. I wasn't able to spend too much time but it was fun while it lasted, that's for certain. Enjoy! The two siblings: There goes the salad... Flinging a little gravel Lights for night time Kinda hard to catch on camera:

Dirby, that servo you're running is more than twice as powerful than the 645mg and is faster - you must be having a blast! Personally, I find the 645mg is sufficient, for now. I suppose if ever I was to want to race I'd upgrade for more speed, but more power seems a bit excessive since I can...