2.0 front shocks leaking already

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
In my 30degree's truck (5T copy) I'm running 50k upfront, 100k centre and 10k out the back, ran it on grass and loose mud track and feels great to me, more time will tell. I'm also running 500CST in my shocks which works out about 42wt, enough for good traction and didn't bottom out hard on the landings on the track.
 
so I've had this 2.0 for about 3 weeks..changed the springs to the heavy orange ones. Cleaned up the fronts with a brush and im wondering why the dust boot is kind of sticky on the inside. I pull it back to find that the shock is leaking. WTF I paid the $1,492 for this damn thing with the thought that it was atleast built well. Now another call will have to be made to horizon. WTF
Sucks man! I just took mine out for the first time and one LED is out and the front swaybar knuckle keeps on popping out. ??‍♂️??‍♂️?
 
The link is busted on your sway bar, it's normal mine does it every other outing. The led sucks, but good news! Call horizon and female dog, they will send you new parts for free. They are pretty good about the warranty.
 
Also doing the shocks I pumped the shocks a few times to check for leaks and there's a ton of air bubbles in the shock??? Also these are the back shocks and the boots are also wet no dripping tho. And I keep all of my rc's elevated none sit on their tires while in the room20200911_194131.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yup gotta pump it like 10-20 times and let them sit for a few minutes to get the bubbles out
sorry what I ment was this is the first time opening them and there was air already in the bodies..could this cause the leak since these seals weren't ment to compress air.....dug some more and found this also horizon sent me part # TLR253001 it says 5B and what in the package is not what I'm pulling out of my shocks is this a revised kit?....the black o rings work but the boots are different their about an inch shorter20200911_201352.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Damn those O rings seen better days yikes

I went on a huge mission to purchase a complete shock rebuilt kit for a 5iveT v1.5
I only had to fix 1 bleeder cap which happens to be the one thing no body sells anymore ??‍♂️
I put 40wt shock oil on all for corners

And I went with HD springs from DDM
Front 14.5 Lb
Rear 11Lb

my diff set up is
100k - 300k - 100k
 
My shocks are all good now after rebuilding. Seems that the kit I received had what I would think is updated o rings. They were flat and square edged. What was happing was the sharp machined groove in the bottom of the shock shaft was taking a bite of the o ring everytime the shock would compress and rebound.
@Basher5iveT420 I went with TLR orange springs front and back along with 50wt TLR oil and center is 1 million wt rear is 125k and front is still stock wt because i was too lazy to tear into the front end. But to be honest it is better but not where I want it to be. I was looking at the 20mill and I may throw some 20mill in the rear and center diff. Im used to driving with locked and lsd rears in vehicles and i like to be able to kick the rear out
 
Also, its 4x4, so the kick the rear out at will, wont necessarily happen all the time, even with a locker. You'll just make turning suffer miserably, with too thick of a fluid in the rear. Also it will greatly depend in tire, and surface your running on, as to how much or little you'll be able to slide the rear end about. And if you really want to make it a slider, tighten up your rear preload and loosen the front up, that will transfer more weight to the front wheels.
 
Also, its 4x4, so the kick the rear out at will, wont necessarily happen all the time, even with a locker. You'll just make turning suffer miserably, with too thick of a fluid in the rear. Also it will greatly depend in tire, and surface your running on, as to how much or little you'll be able to slide the rear end about. And if you really want to make it a slider, tighten up your rear preload and loosen the front up, that will transfer more weight to the front wheels.
Yea yea i know higher grip surfaces= less sliding...and i rest my case with this video. And yes highly over powered specifically engineered to do this. Just trying to beat you to the punch this time @Seandonato73 and I believe the truck is awd not 4x4 :ROFLMAO: and im trying to bias the power to the rear more so thats why I'm doing diff putty in the center and rear and left the front alone but im only going up to 125k in the front
 
Last edited:
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks