[Identified HARM SR1]Help identify 1/5 GT car

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So i searched and found all of my old good smokers
E517A424-B5EC-405B-BA16-742D30FBFA7C.jpeg
and came up to this
C418FD6C-B534-4970-AE1A-0ADC9BC16591.jpeg
Not bad ? i will transfer the con rod and cylinder and the piston on my engine the couple next days.:cool: :ROFLMAO:
 
Update: 46cc cylinder doesn't fit on my zenoah engine... there is a difference in holes offset for about 3mm in each side ?
Well maybe i can use it on my upcoming gas boat project :ROFLMAO: ?
 
I would just stick with the zenoah or CY engines as that's what they designed for.
23cc - 30.5cc only because your going to have big problems with being able to drive the car. Traction and light weight,make it hard and uncontrollable. For the road car 26 - 29 seems to be best size for usability. The FGs come with 26cc new for awhile. Upgraded aftermarket engines/ or upgraded heads will work well also.
 
The holes are on the cooling fins so i can't drill and screw them there xD

Today i order new fuel primer for my carb because it broke lol. Was old and lost it's elasticity.
Guys do you think that a fuel pump will make any difference :unsure:

Also i had one more idea. To order a cylinder and piston for zenoah 26cc marine and install it on my engine :unsure:
I'm the kind of person who can't stick with stock products for too long????:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
Last edited:
nickxab said:
The holes are on the cooling fins so i can't drill and screw them there xD

Today i order new fuel primer for my carb because it broke lol. Was old and lost it's elasticity.
Guys do you think that a fuel pump will make any difference :unsure:

Also i had one more idea. To order a cylinder and piston for zenoah 26cc marine and install it on my engine :unsure:
I'm the kind of person who can't stick with stock products for too long????:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
Don't do it mate..
It will heat seize without cooling fins, unless you can find a darksoul billet cylinder shell but good luck with that ??‍♂️?
 
mark35 said:
Don't do it mate..
It will heat seize without cooling fins, unless you can find a darksoul billet cylinder shell but good luck with that ??‍♂️?
Click to expand...

Exactly!, I've had the same thoughts of using a marine engine.
1st: The blocks are different then aircooled.
2nd : The head will require some method of cooling.
Air cooled engines use the fins. Watercooled engines use guess what?, WATER.
It's REAL difficult to find the the fin kit. I did (I'm a really good researcher)but the extra cost + work,weren't cost effective.
I advise to just get the proper head kit/engine to start with. You can always tinker + modify afterwards.
Fuel pump- No, get a new carb or rebuild kit.
If carbs been sitting, possible seals/clogged/warping or other damage may need cleaning, they do wear out.
Some advise:
Don't get caught up in the "I want to do this and that - dreaming" before the basics+research of what's needed to get it running.
I made that mistake and bought stuff I thought I needed/wanted.
Only to have stuff I couldnt't use on that particular project and lots of money wasted...??
People get frustrated + don't finish builds,whether loss of interest,funds, parts availability and/or lack of knowledge.
Anyone I help, I ALWAYS want them to be able to finish their basic project goals.
After that, you'll have a good idea of what's needed to further your idea(s).
Older vehicles require extra effort if you need parts + info, especially when vehicle is based outside of your country.
If your the one from greece -
I know a place on eBay that's sells FG + other 1/5 parts and IS located in Greece!.??
 
Guys it's obvious that i will install radiator and pump.
I ain't noob in mechanics ?
I'm electrical engineer and mechanical engineer don't worry;)

i cleaned the carb, it's like brand new, all it needs is the fuel primer.?
I will try to setup the walbro from my 46cc chainsaw but the problem is that it needs crankcase back pressure. :/

Here was a quick test after cleanup, you can see how it's leaking gas from the primer?

and yes i had much more oil in gas on purpose xD
 
Last edited:
Well I didn't know your background,so I start at the beginning.
A lot people just starting out show up and try to help best I can.
Telling us your background would've saved time,in me trying to simplify everything.?

Funny I thought about that before also, Ive seen one in real life. (This was a thing years ago)
His ran ok for short periods.
He had thermal issues, cooling capacity/packaging among other issues and would've needed larger/more efficient/effective cooling parts, rads/fans/higher flow pump.
There's also diminishing returns past a certain point,so it's a balancing act. You'll need preferably the smallest components that'll complement each other for the most effective + efficient cooling system.
Fitting all this on a small rc chasis won't be easy.
I'd start with a larger vehicle.
Cooling in no particular order:
Engine thermal output(heat pump), cooling efficiency- radiator/s+fan size+efficiency, water flow,Airflow even tubing size+ length,ambient temps,engine load/speed,heatsoak.
Living in a colder climate would be a ➕.
If you can overcome the cooling and it be robust enough for hits, tumbles it would help.
At the time the available w/c stuff used was for pc's.
There might be a better solution to handle the heat these days. It was several years ago when I saw his car.
There's a reason why it's not a thing,it's just too complicated and really not efficient for this type of vehicle. It was looked at and experimented with by rc makers as I said earlier.
I remember a guy trying to use a self contained prebuilt system,it was a spectacular fail.?
Some of my wc community people might be interested in the challenge.

Your an engineer,you should have some ideas-?. I know - just joking with you.
I deleted a reply that became a unfinished novel explaing some of the dynamics.

I decided on a simpler post.?

(I'm experience at building watercooled computer systems+)

Is there a particular reason you want to use watercooling besides "The cool factor?"
Dang now you have me thinking about it again.
nickxab said:
Guys it's obvious that i will install radiator and pump.
I ain't noob in mechanics ?
I'm electrical engineer and mechanical engineer don't worry;)

i cleaned the carb, it's like brand new, all it needs is the fuel primer.?
I will try to setup the walbro from my 46cc chainsaw but the problem is that it needs crankcase back pressure. :/

Here was a quick test after cleanup, you can see how it's leaking gas from the primer?

and yes i had much more oil in gas on purpose xD
Click to expand...

Edit---- ---
Well you came to right place because there's a lot of seriously knowledgeable chainsaw people here.
Hopefully one of them can help you with the carb issue.
 
Last edited:
Striikar said:
Well I didn't know your background,so I start at the beginning.
A lot people just starting out show up and try to help best I can.
Telling us your background would've saved time,in me trying to simplify everything.?
Click to expand...
Ah no worries mate. For me there is always something to learn no matter the background :D :)

Striikar said:
Funny I thought about that before also, Ive seen one in real life. (This was a thing years ago)
His ran ok for short periods.
He had thermal issues, cooling capacity/packaging among other issues and would've needed larger/more efficient/effective cooling parts, rads/fans/higher flow pump.
There's also diminishing returns past a certain point,so it's a balancing act. You'll need preferably the smallest components that'll complement each other for the most effective + efficient cooling system.
Fitting all this on a small rc chasis won't be easy.
I'd start with a larger vehicle.
Cooling in no particular order:
Engine thermal output(heat pump), cooling efficiency- radiator/s+fan size+efficiency, water flow,Airflow even tubing size+ length,ambient temps,engine load/speed,heatsoak.
Living in a colder climate would be a ➕.
If you can overcome the cooling and it be robust enough for hits, tumbles it would help.
At the time the available w/c stuff used was for pc's.
There might be a better solution to handle the heat these days. It was several years ago when I saw his car.
There's a reason why it's not a thing,it's just too complicated and really not efficient for this type of vehicle. It was looked at and experimented with by rc makers as I said earlier.
I remember a guy trying to use a self contained prebuilt system,it was a spectacular fail.?
Some of my wc community people might be interested in the challenge.

Your an engineer,you should have some ideas-?. I know - just joking with you.
I deleted a reply that became a unfinished novel explaing some of the dynamics.

I decided on a simpler post.?

(I'm experience at building watercooled computer systems+)

Is there a particular reason you want to use watercooling besides "The cool factor?"
Dang now you have me thinking about it again.


Edit---- ---
Well you came to right place because there's a lot of seriously knowledgeable chainsaw people here.
Hopefully one of them can help you with the carb issue.
Click to expand...
Oh cool since you know about watercooled pc, my idea was based on pc water cooling ? a radiator with single fan or push pull set up so it will fit on the model and a 12v water pump.
To eliminate possible high temps i was thinking to maximize the flow by dilling bigger holes on the cylinder and install bigger fittings.
Also i ain't race it in tournaments so i think it will be fine. :unsure:
Even if it fails i like to experiement and i will learn something new :p
 
Its always great to experiment,best way to learn.?

It may work for a short time but once waters thermal limits are reached the water cannot unload the heat. If you get between 1°- 3° above ambient at best in a temperature controlled environment,it'll would be great...ideling(No load?).
With engines,it would be very hard to maintain that more then a few seconds - minutes above idle. The minute you hit the throttle the heat load will increasingly get higher. You'll need a large volume of liquid to carry the thermal load. Along with sufficiently capable fans and a pump that can pass enough water.The longer it runs your going to eventually hit thermal heatsoak. Unless as stated you can remove the heat at a fast enough rate. Vehicle weight will also play a big part on engine load requiring more cooling capacity.
You'll need a larger radiator or several with with a lot of surface area. This is where size of rads gets involved. Push/pull is at best 1°-2° depending on rad design. There's a whole science behind rads alone.There's high,med,low fin density.
With computers you'll have to figure out which sound level you can live with- generally the faster=louder sound but better cooling,again to a point...but new improvements in low speed rads have greatly made them more efficient.
Rads are optimised for airflow
You can have the fastest spinning fan but if the radiator isnt designed for it,it won't make a difference. It'll be just be unnecessarily loud and inefficient. A fan shroud is important for optimum cooling.
To sum it up you need a large enough volume of fluid,capable fans and enough airflow and surface area to keep the thermals in check. A pc rad that small will not be sufficient. If your thinking about doing it with the 46cc - Fugedabout it.
It may run when cool for a bit but I don't see longevity in the cards.
My last comp build I used 2 rads: 480mm +140mm +12 -140mm fans to cool approx 750+watts @ 25°C ambient.
59° F max temp - CPU+GPU maxed ? without blowing your ears off. Ran temperature based cooling,so in normal use very quiet,but ramps up as needed.
I burnt out after all the decades of computers and took up RC.?
There's a ton more in theory + science but for you, it's basically run as much cooling as you can fit on the car, aesthetics will be crap and hope for the best.
(Sorry I kept having interruptions,so it took a bit of time but the basics are outlined)?
 
One other possible way is v setup like drift cars where you have too much load on low speeds?

ah no no, not the 46cc.
The 46cc will be used in another project, most probably on a gas boat :unsure: since it doesn't fit on the G230RC crankcase and also it's air cooled cylinder.
I was talking about the G260PUM cylinder:unsure:

we will see what i will decide in 2 weeks, most probably next week i will buy a gas boat and also i found a zenoah G260PUM with tuned pipe for 50€


Based on this hull i will make molds and make my own hulls ??
The boat is 1.3m long.
and also i always wanted a marine turbine so i will start stacking paper for this ? ? ? ?
 
Last edited:
There was an old saying in HVAC in vehicles. Give me a condenser the size of a postage stamp, and I'll still make it cool. Just need the right set up. In automotive diesels weve seen this for some time. The cooling packages are on the anemic side if things, but through air management, selection of materials and really and I mean really high flow pumps they seem to handle heat well. At minimum I would be doing a custom radiator and not using PC cooling radiators. A multi pass rear to front would be best. Hot fluid goes in the upper rear and passes down then back up to go down again. Coolant goes out the front bottom of the system. Pressure would need managed as well. As well as the coolant medium. Water isnt the best, there are waterless coolants that have a much better exchange rate out nowadays. This project would be small enough to make it cost effective to use. Fan size would also be one factor, if you mounted it properly and channeled the air right you would get better cooling at speed vs relying just on fan cooling. The limiting factor on air cooled 2 strokes is heat management we went through this in dirt bikes, when liquid engines came out you could up the power a good bit and bot have to worry about detonation and heat seize near as much.
 
Back
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks