Just got an FG Monster Beetle!

Gamefan

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Thread starter #81
OH YES!!!!

I call my LHS in Littleton and they said they had no issues with me running my car there. I am going next weekend to break-in my engine. The LHS staff there said they would also help me out if I had any questions during the break0in process.

Super stoked now!
 

Gamefan

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Thread starter #82
One last question...am I supposed to be able to roll the car without it being on? Sorry for the dumb question, just wanting to make sure I did not do anything to cause damage.
 

Gamefan

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Thread starter #84
T2Boats,

Since I do not have a manual or ever owned a car like this before, is it supposed to be locked or not? If not, what adjustments do I need to make?

Thank you for all your help on this, I really appreciate it!
 

t2boats

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#85
@Gamefan what have you actually done? o_O The car should be free to role back n fore when everything's off (mine role back n fore when also switched ON). If it doesn't, something in the drivetrain is goosed and jammed, or perhaps the throttle/brake servo is partially braking, preventing the car from rolling. As soon as you switch on your controller and then the car, the servo's should align to where the controller is telling them, whether that be a neutral position for the throttle and brake servo (ie: it's not accelerating nor braking - though this can be further tuned by you manually adjusting the brake arm, the rod which runs between the servo and brake assembly).
I've seen it a few times at my old club where a car has become locked. Once things were taken apart 9 times out of 10 one of the clutch shoes had come loose and lodged itself within the clutch housing, effectively preventing the car from rolling forwards or backwards. Easily fixed! Just remove the gear train (3 screws is it?!) and rear brake assembly, slide off the clutch bell and catch the offending item! Clean things up and re-attach the shoe with a little drop of threadlock on the screw too ;)
 

Gamefan

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Thread starter #86
Thank you for this! I basically pulled the engine out when switching over to the alloy motor mounts. I will check everything to see that it is not the brake engaging or something loose.

Thank you T2Boats!!
 
Last edited:

Gamefan

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Thread starter #87
After looking I found that the shaft that connects the belt drive system is loose. How to I secure it so it does not move thus locking up the drive train?
 

t2boats

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#88
I've PM'd you! Just had a thought, did you replace the engine mount on the gear side, or pullstart side? I think the conversion needs to have the supplied plastic engine mount if I remember right :confused:
 

Peteolheadz100

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#90
@Gamefan what have you actually done? o_O The car should be free to role back n fore when everything's off (mine role back n fore when also switched ON). If it doesn't, something in the drivetrain is goosed and jammed, or perhaps the throttle/brake servo is partially braking, preventing the car from rolling. As soon as you switch on your controller and then the car, the servo's should align to where the controller is telling them, whether that be a neutral position for the throttle and brake servo (ie: it's not accelerating nor braking - though this can be further tuned by you manually adjusting the brake arm, the rod which runs between the servo and brake assembly).
I've seen it a few times at my old club where a car has become locked. Once things were taken apart 9 times out of 10 one of the clutch shoes had come loose and lodged itself within the clutch housing, effectively preventing the car from rolling forwards or backwards. Easily fixed! Just remove the gear train (3 screws is it?!) and rear brake assembly, slide off the clutch bell and catch the offending item! Clean things up and re-attach the shoe with a little drop of threadlock on the screw too ;)
Talking about his matter what can be used to clean the clutch bell and clutch itself, upon inspecting mine its got alot of breakdust looking dust all over it?
 

t2boats

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#91
You can buy Brake & Clutch Cleaner spray from various shops, I've had an old tin for years which I had from work, made by CAT. Simply spray it on, give it a few moments and scrub it off. Easy peasy!
 

Gamefan

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Okay I need more help please. Today I finally made it to my local hobby shop and I could not get the engine to start.

I put the pre-mix gas/oil in the tank. I pressed the bubble three times to fill it with gas. I closed the choke, opened the choke. Nothing.

It sounds like it wants to turn over, but it does not. How do I check the spark plug? Could it be the spark plug or something else?

Any help is most appreciated!
 

t2boats

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#93
To check for spark simply remove the plug from the cylinder head, pop it back into the ignition lead cap and just rest it on top of the cylinder head so it makes contact with the exposed metal plug hole. Pull the chord a few times and you should hopefully see little blue spark appear on the electrode. If that works, in the past I've put a tiny trickle of mixed fuel/oil direct into the cylinder before you put the spark plug back in. Switch on your Tx & Rx so the servo's align to where they should be for idle, screw the spark plug back in and pull the engine. It should fire up in a few pulls. If it cuts out then there's likely to be a carb problem. So you haven't adjusted any of the 3 screws on the carb have you?
 

Peteolheadz100

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#94
Okay I need more help please. Today I finally made it to my local hobby shop and I could not get the engine to start.

I put the pre-mix gas/oil in the tank. I pressed the bubble three times to fill it with gas. I closed the choke, opened the choke. Nothing.

It sounds like it wants to turn over, but it does not. How do I check the spark plug? Could it be the spark plug or something else?
Prime the bulb until it fills, pull the starter twice , open the choke pull atarter until it pops close the choke and after about 3 pulls it should start. If not then check the needles for adjustment, low needle 1 and a quarter, hi speed one and a half
Any help is most appreciated!
 

t2boats

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#95
The bubble did fill with fuel yeah when you primed it? So it just leaves a tiny air bubble in the top of it.. and does the brake/throttle servo align in the usual spot for idle?
 

Gamefan

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Thread starter #96
Hi T2Boats! Yes everything aligns normally. There is a little bubble in the fuel primed bubble. I bought an ignition tester to see if it sparks. I do know when I pull the cord, and the spark plug is out, all this fuel gets all over. Is that normal?

Thank you!
 

t2boats

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#97
You'll get atomised fuel flying out, wouldn't worry about that. You've only got to pull the chord fairly slow (not too slow), or if you're concerned about the fuel then secure the plug to the side of the engine where it can make contact with side mounted screw which holds the cover on. That's bolted direct to the cylinder head so it can earth out on that too.
 

t2boats

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So it shouldn't be running rich then. Just try and see if the plug's alright first, see if it'll crank up and fire with choke on, Once it does, open the choke and a few pulls later it should start.
 
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