Just got an FG Monster Beetle!

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Does the carb ever release the gas in it? My tank is empty but the carb still has gas in it. Is they normal?

Thank you!
 
At least is starts now mate! On the other side of your carb is the chunky ali idle screw. Is the pointy end of it making contact with the throttle arm, or just touching thin air?
 
You certain the choke is all the way open? If you're not sure, unscrew the end of the filter, slide off the sponge and look in, you should hopefully see the choke butterfly sitting horizontal.
 
T2Boats - The throttle arm is connected to the screw and it revs when I move it. Is that what you mean?

As for the choke, is it supposed to be all the way open when the engine is on at idle? I did not check it. I am back home now so it will have to wait until next weekend.

Thank you for all your help on this T2Boats!
 
Yeah once you start it from cold with the choke closed (black lever pointing to 6 o'clock) and it fires into life then cuts out, you open the choke fully, leaving it open you pull the chord a few more times and it'll burst into life, remaining at idle. The choke must always remain open when you're using it, you won't need the choke again until you're wanting to start it again and things have cooled down when you're not using it.
The throttle arm is connected to the servo, it's the other side of the carb you'll see a chunky adjustment screw. The throttle arm is connected to a rod which passes through the carb (and has the butterfly on it in the middle of the carb), on the end of this rod is a sort of triangular piece which points downwards. It's the bottom corner of this piece which makes contact with the idle adjustment screw. I set mine so the screw just about touches it, very slightly opening the carb. Your LSN may need a tweek to stop the engine from hunting.
 
I understand now. Okay so I had my choke almost closed during idle. Also, the chunky adjustment screw is all the way in, touching that triangular piece you are talking about.

I will adjust all this next Saturday when I start her again. Until then I closed the choke and have not done anything to the idle adjustment screw.

Thank you again T2Boats!
 
Yep it just lives in one of two positions, closed for starting, fully open (3 or 9 o'clock whichever way the lever is on) for final starting and running.
As long as it's just touching the triangular piece with the machine tip of it then it should be alright.

This video shows what to do for setting up the LSN and HSN. As you adjust you'll pass through a sweet spot where the fueling is happy, when you go beyond that sweet spot it'll sound like it's dying off again, gradually bring the LSN back to where you heard the nice smooth rpm, then turn your attentions to the HSN. I need to tweek the HSN still on my Baja 5b, it's got a slight burble splutter on max rpm, running a tad too rich, so by leaning that very slightly will clear the splutter up and give it more top end - and pass that magical 50mph :D

 
T2Boats - I’ll Check it out! One other question. When I do hit the throttle, I get no movement from the wheels. Will all the adjusting I still need to do correct this?

Thank you again!
 
Errr how do you mean? Like wide open throttle high revs and the wheels don't move? Or just when you're blipping the throttle? If you've a high rev clutch spring in the car then it wont release the clutch shoes until higher up the rev range (more punch off the line when racing). Mine had the high release clutch springs in them, they launch the car when the revs are higher up nearing the powerband of the engine, it's aimed at preventing the engine from bogging down so much. Or you've got an issue with the drivetrain again..
 
Right now when I hit the accelerator, the engine shuts off. So I know I need to adjust this.

An example is when I had it on the table outside, I hit the throttle all the way and no movement from the wheels at all. I will open her up and check the drivetrain later this week. Hopefully nothing broke. :oops:
 
Not that I know of, it's not happened to my Beetle yet, and that was used an abused on an off-road track. I must admit yours was the first case I've heard of it (when you had the loss of drive issue last week).
 
With all four wheels off the ground, grab the two front wheels and turn them forwards, you should see the rear wheels rotating by themselves the same direction. If that's alright then the belt is binding the rear diff.
 
I checked and all wheels move like you stated. Also the car rolls forward and backwards. I think I just need to tune the high and like you stated earlier.

Thank you T2Boats!
 
Let's hope so. Normally just a blip should engage at least some drive to the wheels. You ever seen the clutch spring inside? If so, what colour is it?
 
Hello Gamefan,
If you still have the problem please check your gear carrier from the large plastic gear it can be that this one is broken and can slip through on the layshaft. It is also possible that the small gear on the layshaft to the diff gear is the problem.
Wolle
 
That’ll be the same gears you checked a few weeks back Gamefan, worth checking again though! The layshaft gear is held on by two grub screws, I’ve had them both come loose once, lost total drive. Everything “looked” as nothing was out of place, turned out the grub screws had come loose far enough to let the shaft spin within.
 
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