Losi 5ive t, 2.0

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RC RT

Well-Known Member
Messages
90
Location
San Ramon Ca.
Hi all
My 5t 2.0
This is a great 1/5 scale first and formost
but I have had couple issue's
Break in was done with 25/1 ratio,
Broke motor in using heat and cool method 1st.
first start up ran for 5 minutes let cool for 30 (motor never got over 140 degrees f. at little over idle
second start, ran about 10 minutes let cool 30 little higher RPM
third start ran for rest of tank out at about 1/4 throttle

First field trip, found a field with dirt and low grass (throttle was 75% max available
fired it and ran for about 5 minutes and motor locked up, found that clutch shoe bolt had came loose and locked up clutch
pulled both bolts and used blue Loctite ensuring only on threads (none on shoulder of screws

Next run found a empty parking lot and ran about 1/2 of a tank with 100% throttle available nice run, but oil on chassie from pipe exhaust
next time I went out wasn't able to start, coil needed replaced.

Well I just finished reworking pipe everything looks good, added 2.125" to outlet of exhaust and little twisting of mount bracket on pipe
Upgrades so far equal
Bartalone Big Bore Silenced pipe
Super Bee Kill Switch w/buzzer and led light
pull start outer wear
cooling fan outer wear
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Hi all
My 5t 2.0
This is a great 1/5 scale first and formost
but I have had couple issue's
Break in was done with 25/1 ratio,
Broke motor in using heat and cool method 1st.
first start up ran for 5 minutes let cool for 30 (motor never got over 140 degrees f. at little over idle
second start, ran about 10 minutes let cool 30 little higher RPM
third start ran for rest of tank out at about 1/4 throttle

First field trip, found a field with dirt and low grass (throttle was 75% max available
fired it and ran for about 5 minutes and motor locked up, found that clutch shoe bolt had came loose and locked up clutch
pulled both bolts and used blue Loctite ensuring only on threads (none on shoulder of screws

Next run found a empty parking lot and ran about 1/2 of a tank with 100% throttle available nice run, but oil on chassie from pipe exhaust
next time I went out wasn't able to start, coil needed replaced.

Well I just finished reworking pipe everything looks good, added 2.125" to outlet of exhaust and little twisting of mount bracket on pipe
Upgrades so far equal
Bartalone Big Bore Silenced pipe
Super Bee Kill Switch w/buzzer and led light
pull start outer wear
cooling fan outer wear
View attachment 48789View attachment 48786View attachment 48787View attachment 48788View attachment 48789View attachment 48786View attachment 48787View attachment 48786View attachment 48787View attachment 48788View attachment 48789
Hey man there's no rtr without it's issues
 
Sorry to hear you having problems 3 gallon on mine she still good to me can't say that about my mtxl.half tank needed new top end .very hard to start near impossible from day one pulled exhaust broken piston ring horizon hobbies sent me new top end 2nd day air. It's the nature of the beast.
 
was going to try the hose but didn't think it would stay on, at the angle of pipe coming out of silencer there was only 1/4".
 
I welded a 3/4 O.D. x 2 1/4" extension onto outlet, rotated barrel of silencer, and bent mount tab.
repainted with high temp, and used new hose from header to pipe with hose clamps.
feels nice and secured, outlet tube is outside of chassie now has at least 1/4 clearance chassie and A-arm
haven fired it up yet (poring rain)
does any one know what the H.P. rating is on stock 320RC
 

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So its listed on DDM sight as a 3.5 hp. But that's also what the g290 is supposed to make. So I would guess with a tuned pipe and a 1107 carb you would be closer to 4 or 5 hp. I think zen rated it a little on the conservative side.
 
FYI... I'm a new 5ive-T 2.0 member as well. I've been gathering components (radio, receiver, tools, oil, upgrades, etc) and have yet to break my machine in yet. I was attempting to remove my engine for the first time to install the Kill switch + outer wears and the MF'n hex-ball end snapped inside the engine-brace brake screw...

DDM ball hex break.jpg


I couldn't bore out the screw because the Chinese pot-metal from my DDM ball-hex set was a little too hard to get through. I ended up having to destroy the brake brace, Dremel cutting the engine mount insert and using channel-lock pliers to unscrew the bolt. My recommendation is to never use these ball-joint tools on any screw attached to hard metals. I went to Lowes and got ratchet-ball joint sets made of stronger material...
 
FYI... I'm a new 5ive-T 2.0 member as well. I've been gathering components (radio, receiver, tools, oil, upgrades, etc) and have yet to break my machine in yet. I was attempting to remove my engine for the first time to install the Kill switch + outer wears and the MF'n hex-ball end snapped inside the engine-brace brake screw...

View attachment 48812


I couldn't bore out the screw because the Chinese pot-metal from my DDM ball-hex set was a little too hard to get through. I ended up having to destroy the brake brace, Dremel cutting the engine mount insert and using channel-lock pliers to unscrew the bolt. My recommendation is to never use these ball joint tools on any screw attached to hard metals. I went to Lowes and got ratchet ball joint sets made of stronger material...
That sucks. What oil u Gunna use?
 
To be honest, ball ends are for the lazy, and I'm one.:) The job can always be done correctly if you just remove the part that's impeding you from getting to the bolt and using a regular hex. It would probably only take another 5 min to remove the part that's in the way, but noooooo, I put that ball end in there at a 50 degree angle and break the tip off. Now that 5 min extra time now turns into hours.(n) Oh well.
 
To be honest, ball ends are for the lazy, and I'm one.:) The job can always be done correctly if you just remove the part that's impeding you from getting to the bolt and using a regular hex. It would probably only take another 5 min to remove the part that's in the way, but noooooo, I put that ball end in there at a 50 degree angle and break the tip off. Now that 5 min extra time now turns into hours.(n) Oh well.
I'm very strategic when it comes to stuff like that ? always try to find the most efficient way of going about stuff
 
breaking a ball end is a pain for shure
I only use them after I have broke it lose and never to tighten
like stated above little extra time can save hours
So its listed on DDM sight as a 3.5 hp. But that's also what the g290 is supposed to make. So I would guess with a tuned pipe and a 1107 carb you would be closer to 4 or 5 hp. I think zen rated it a little on the conservative side.
thanks
didn't remember seeing it
 
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