Milo’s Badger Build
- Thread starter Milo
- Start date
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- Messages
- 1,343
- Thread starter
- #42
- Messages
- 1,343
- Thread starter
- #43
Updates so far…….
I’ve done my suspension. I didn’t record it all so I’ll explain. I made my own bypass shocks and so far they seem to look ok.
First of all I got some MIP Bypass valves. Without any mods they fit straight over the IRC shock shaft perfectly.
Then I drilled some hole in some 3 hole pistons. The original 3 holes are conical so should have a dual rate anyway. I didn’t bother taking photos all the way through because I’m not sure how many are actually interested. The pics below where my first attempt by hand my final version I used a mini pillar drill but I didn’t photo it. I used a 0.5mm drill bit and drill 6 extra holes. I did use this piston it was an experiment and my first attempt.
I only bothered with the rears as there is no weight in the front under load, even in this heavy rig. Anyway finished product below, massive shout out to Fruitbat for the spring perches, way better than original and they make much easier to put together plus a bit of bling.
I used 4 hole in the fronts with no mods, 35w all round.
More to follow……..
I’ve done my suspension. I didn’t record it all so I’ll explain. I made my own bypass shocks and so far they seem to look ok.
First of all I got some MIP Bypass valves. Without any mods they fit straight over the IRC shock shaft perfectly.
Then I drilled some hole in some 3 hole pistons. The original 3 holes are conical so should have a dual rate anyway. I didn’t bother taking photos all the way through because I’m not sure how many are actually interested. The pics below where my first attempt by hand my final version I used a mini pillar drill but I didn’t photo it. I used a 0.5mm drill bit and drill 6 extra holes. I did use this piston it was an experiment and my first attempt.
I only bothered with the rears as there is no weight in the front under load, even in this heavy rig. Anyway finished product below, massive shout out to Fruitbat for the spring perches, way better than original and they make much easier to put together plus a bit of bling.
I used 4 hole in the fronts with no mods, 35w all round.
More to follow……..
- Messages
- 2,803
- Location
- Manitoba
Nice combination of parts!!
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- 1,343
- Thread starter
- #46
Sort of, I’ve binned off the Red Arrow arms and reverted to FLMs. The Red Arrows and the RCMAX stuff didn’t want to play nice. They will work with a funky mish mash set up but not here. It all fitted in the end but didn’t feel nice or right.
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- 1,810
I agree with @Milo. If using the rcmax front tower the shock shafts bind and the shock springs would potentially rub on the arm being they were not centeredi in the opening.. I've ran into this in my build as well. I had to alter my front tower and just use it as a mock up unit.. I will be using the bonehead carbon flm v1 tower. It offers so much more adjustability
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- Thread starter
- #48
So close yet so far.
- Messages
- 528
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario
Looking Sic! Props to you Milo.
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- 3,659
- Location
- florida
Monster 
looking good
looking good
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- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks guys. 
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- 3,624
- Location
- Queens
Woah this looks amazing
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- 7,053
- Location
- Nj
Very impressive miles, I can hardly wait to see some footage of this thing ripping 
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- Thread starter
- #55
It’s fighting me right now. The gearbox just binds ever so slightly when everything is buttoned up. I think it’s the ring gear on the diff. Gonna strip it again later to finally get to the bottom of this.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
MonsterAir
Lone Racer 🤠
- Messages
- 2,369
- Location
- Long Island NY
How's the camber? I had that issue with mine when I used mis matching brand uppers and lowers. Like a lumpy feel
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- 1,343
- Thread starter
- #57
The camber is fine now I’ve got the FLMs back on there.
Dunno what it will be like when I try them on my next build. I’ll be using HPI plastics that I’ve hoarded over the years so maybe they’ll be better on that.
Dunno what it will be like when I try them on my next build. I’ll be using HPI plastics that I’ve hoarded over the years so maybe they’ll be better on that.
- Messages
- 1,810
I have one set of blackbone gears as well that has a small bit of bind. And one set is buttery smooth. I see a couple guys having issues. I also notice as Monster said my Outlaw and Baja builds while using IRC UHD if the camber isn't set proper there's not enough travel in the cups and dogbones they will bind, also will bind at full droop if not using a sway bar setup, so limit straps/cables are a must. I'm not sure if it's the UHD cup setup not allowing the full articulation. My vektas dogbones and cups allow much more travel with zero bind.It’s fighting me right now. The gearbox just binds ever so slightly when everything is buttoned up. I think it’s the ring gear on the diff. Gonna strip it again later to finally get to the bottom of this.
Thanks guys.
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- 1,343
- Thread starter
- #59
I’ve found the issue. The notches in the diff cups on one of mine is too small and is notching. This is a separate issue from the one I was having with the gearbox. One side turns fine at full droop even though the dog bone moves from side to side slightly, the other notches when the pin is at 12 and 6 o’clock. It’s even worse when I try the other notches on the same cup. It’s a few microns out but none the less it’s enough to cause a problem.
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GRIND IT! lol