Need soldering iron suggestions please

1Coopgt

Well-Known Member
Messages
266
Likes
244
Location
Rochester,NY
Ok sorry for the delay in these pics. I'll try not to confuse you too much.... any way this is most of the stuff I use for my rc hobby. So top down first liquid flux I've ever used it's ok. Kinder of messy but leaves no residue.for some reason I didn't get these in order #2 back side of the Novak solder #3 the flux pen I currently use(makes the least mess)#4 front side of the Novak solder.#5 tip cleaner /thinner #6my weller solder station. I don't think they make this model anymore #7-8 progressive RC solder helper. It's great holds all kinds of things. Makes doing connectors a snap.#9 is the solder pen that goes to the weller station. I have a stand with a steel wool type tip cleaner. Cant for the life of me remember where I have my little 40w solder pen... hope this helps a bit.(mind you this has taken years to accumulate)
Your in Europe aren't you? Lead free solders and No Clean flux. The no clean flux is why you don't have a lot of residue . Plus it makes it easier to solder the Silver solder you're using .You need a higher heat soldering iron for the solder your using ( just an observation) higher silver content. Makes for some ugly solder joints compared to SN63/37 solder (Dull color) They aren't widely used I have a feeling by hobbiest in the States (making assumsions). We use them in Manufacturing here due to selling products in Europe and other places over sea's and more and more everyone want's to lower the lead content .
 

Seandonato73

Well-Known Member
Messages
332
Likes
325
Nice setup. I think I'm going to go with the hobbico pencil 40w iron for now, is the radio shack solder good? I can't find Novak and likely will b over priced, wanna know for future reference, cuz nobody wants to wait a weak for solder
It's good stuff I have the 0.22" and 0.32" size the 0.32" should work just fine.

Your in Europe aren't you? Lead free solders and No Clean flux. The no clean flux is why you don't have a lot of residue . Plus it makes it easier to solder the Silver solder you're using .You need a higher heat soldering iron for the solder your using ( just an observation) higher silver content. Makes for some ugly solder joints compared to SN63/37 solder (Dull color) They aren't widely used I have a feeling by hobbiest in the States (making assumsions). We use them in Manufacturing here due to selling products in Europe and other places over sea's and more and more everyone want's to lower the lead content .
Nope i live in PA. I used to re build run boxes for older Volvo engines. They wanted a lead free silver bearing solder. The Novak stuff fit the bill. Residue free flux was also needed. I got so used to using it pluse the added bonus of better continuity over standard solder, I just ran with it.

@1Coopgt how should I clean the tip?
Wet sponge or get one of those steel wool pads thing for it. This is what my stand looks like.
 

Attachments

Thread starter #44

Z.hb71

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,277
Likes
610
Location
Manvel, Texas
It's good stuff I have the 0.22" and 0.32" size the 0.32" should work just fine.


Nope i live in PA. I used to re build run boxes for older Volvo engines. They wanted a lead free silver bearing solder. The Novak stuff fit the bill. Residue free flux was also needed. I got so used to using it pluse the added bonus of better continuity over standard solder, I just ran with it.


Wet sponge or get one of those steel wool pads thing for it. This is what my stand looks like.
So like when Im done soldering before I turn it off just wipe the tip on a wet sponge?
 
Messages
40
Likes
34
I use Kester Solder 60/40 in .031" it is small enough to solder small wires and easy to stack and tin larger wires with. it flows great and has excellent soldering strength. I have used the cheap Weller iron in the past, actually have 2 that don't get used because they just suck. The Hobbico that I listed is a great iron for the price. It will solder 10ga wires and it will solder 22awg wires, gotta be fast on the smaller wires. When you actually go to solder your wires make sure you follow these steps and you will get a solid strong bond every time.

1) Clean your connections
2) Tin your connections (contact and wires)
3) Heat your connection not the Solder
4) Tin your iron tip always
5) keep your tip clean with a damp sponge
6) place your solder on the wire or connector your are heating
7) when removing your iron whip it away to get a clean break
8) if your soldered joint is clean and shinny then you have done it right, if its dull and pitted then you have contaminents in the solder and it is a weaker joint
 
Thread starter #50

Z.hb71

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,277
Likes
610
Location
Manvel, Texas
I use Kester Solder 60/40 in .031" it is small enough to solder small wires and easy to stack and tin larger wires with. it flows great and has excellent soldering strength. I have used the cheap Weller iron in the past, actually have 2 that don't get used because they just suck. The Hobbico that I listed is a great iron for the price. It will solder 10ga wires and it will solder 22awg wires, gotta be fast on the smaller wires. When you actually go to solder your wires make sure you follow these steps and you will get a solid strong bond every time.

1) Clean your connections
2) Tin your connections (contact and wires)
3) Heat your connection not the Solder
4) Tin your iron tip always
5) keep your tip clean with a damp sponge
6) place your solder on the wire or connector your are heating
7) when removing your iron whip it away to get a clean break
8) if your soldered joint is clean and shinny then you have done it right, if its dull and pitted then you have contaminents in the solder and it is a weaker joint
thanks, i will do that, how do i clean the connections? with flux?
 
Messages
40
Likes
34
I just rubbing alcohol usually just to make sure there is not dirt or grease in the joints. Also for your solder many will tell you to use lead free but the 60/40 rosin core wire is by far the easiest to work with. I don't know about you but I don't usually make it a point to inhale my soldering smoke so I am not worried about the lead plus is makes some really crappy joints.
 
Thread starter #53

Z.hb71

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,277
Likes
610
Location
Manvel, Texas
I just rubbing alcohol usually just to make sure there is not dirt or grease in the joints. Also for your solder many will tell you to use lead free but the 60/40 rosin core wire is by far the easiest to work with. I don't know about you but I don't usually make it a point to inhale my soldering smoke so I am not worried about the lead plus is makes some really crappy joints.
 
Last edited:
Thread starter #54

Z.hb71

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,277
Likes
610
Location
Manvel, Texas
I just rubbing alcohol usually just to make sure there is not dirt or grease in the joints. Also for your solder many will tell you to use lead free but the 60/40 rosin core wire is by far the easiest to work with. I don't know about you but I don't usually make it a point to inhale my soldering smoke so I am not worried about the lead plus is makes some really crappy joints.
whats the 60/40 solder u use? i did read everywere that leaded solder gives better joints so imma use that cuz its on my ignition so if it breaks that could cuase a fire. oh also does the hobbico soldering iron come with a pointy tip or a flat tip?
 
Messages
332
Likes
325
60/40 rosin core can be had about anywhere. Its kinds the main stay for electrical solder work. You local hardware store should carry it, or a radio shack. I agree with frenimy it is very easy to solder with.
 
Thread starter #56

Z.hb71

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,277
Likes
610
Location
Manvel, Texas
ok so guys corrct me if need be. i wanna get, the hobbico soldering iron (for now), 60/40 solder, helping hands, flux, dielectric grease, and heatshring. i already have the sponge, i got steel wool to wipe the tip off. anything else i should get?
ok so guys corrct me if need be. i wanna get, the hobbico soldering iron (for now), 60/40 solder, helping hands, flux, dielectric grease, and heatshring. i already have the sponge, i got steel wool to wipe the tip off. anything else i should get?
60/40 rosin core can be had about anywhere. Its kinds the main stay for electrical solder work. You local hardware store should carry it, or a radio shack. I agree with frenimy it is very easy to solder with.
I just rubbing alcohol usually just to make sure there is not dirt or grease in the joints. Also for your solder many will tell you to use lead free but the 60/40 rosin core wire is by far the easiest to work with. I don't know about you but I don't usually make it a point to inhale my soldering smoke so I am not worried about the lead plus is makes some really crappy joints.
Clean the tip on a damp sponge then add fresh solder to the tip . Then turn off . You want solder on the tip. Keeps them from oxidizing.
 
Last edited:
Thread starter #58

Z.hb71

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,277
Likes
610
Location
Manvel, Texas
Do what you want . 30 + years in the electronics industry doesn't mean anything anymore I guess. ;) Frenimy is not wrong with his info .
What does "30 + years in the electronics industry doesn't mean anything anymore I guess" mean? I don't exactly know what I want to get cuz I don't know anything about electronics lol.
 

1Coopgt

Well-Known Member
Messages
266
Likes
244
Location
Rochester,NY
What does "30 + years in the electronics industry doesn't mean anything anymore I guess" mean? I don't exactly know what I want to get cuz I don't know anything about electronics lol.
It means I wasn't blowing smoke up your ass yesterday with the info I gave you . I have 30 plus years as an Assembler and Manufacturing eng. In the electronic industry . Everything I suggested is from personal experience like the info that others have given you. I don't expect anyone to no this because you folks don't know me personally. And that's ok.
 
Thread starter #60

Z.hb71

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,277
Likes
610
Location
Manvel, Texas
It means I wasn't blowing smoke up your ass yesterday with the info I gave you . I have 30 plus years as an Assembler and Manufacturing eng. In the electronic industry . Everything I suggested is from personal experience like the info that others have given you. I don't expect anyone to no this because you folks don't know me personally. And that's ok.
Ya I know u weren't blowing smoke up my ass, nor did I think or say cuz I'm not the one to judge that cuz I'm dumb when it comes to electronics. I'm just tryna get as much info as I can get. I posted my last post to make sure I was getting the right stuff. That's why I said correct me, didn't mean to offend anyone or get beef with anyone
 
Last edited:
Top