Pull starts

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Milo

Not Horlicks🙄
PLUS member
Build Thread Contributor
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Hey all,

Are FID or TR pull starts worth it, are they any good and are they much heavier than stock. I’ve also got my eye on the new easy start by RCMAX but that looks chunky and heavy.

My preference would be a roto start but can’t find one anywhere.

Please let me know your experiences?

Cheers,

Milo.
 
Are you having trouble with the traditional zenoah pull start? I've seen guys have problems with the TR, pawl (or whatever part inside) can break. Roto's are just sissy and I can't rightfully condone such a devise.
 
Regular pullstart = hand power
Roto start+battery= more poop to go wrong and carry.
Definitely more to carry but less to go wrong. I’d just use my Makita cordless drill.

I’ve wrecked a few pull start springs& ropes and it pisses me off. I think I’ll just stick to rebuilding them and carrying a spare.
 
All comes down to technique and a regular pullstart is not gonna last forever ???
Definitely more to carry but less to go wrong. I’d just use my Makita cordless drill.

I’ve wrecked a few pull start springs& ropes and it pisses me off. I think I’ll just stick to rebuilding them and carrying a spare.
 
Like doug said it is technique I prime and choke pull lightly a few times till it pops and give it maybe a few short yanks and it fires...if starting is becoming more of a hassle id suspect a decline in compression and or fueling/ spark delivery.
 
Hey all,

Are FID or TR pull starts worth it, are they any good and are they much heavier than stock. I’ve also got my eye on the new easy start by RCMAX but that looks chunky and heavy.

My preference would be a roto start but can’t find one anywhere.

Please let me know your experiences?

Cheers,

Milo.
Killer rc makes a rotostart, tr is garbage, fid seems okay .doubt the rcmax is heavier but I don't have experience with any of em ?
 
Like doug said it is technique I prime and choke pull lightly a few times till it pops and give it maybe a few short yanks and it fires...if starting is becoming more of a hassle id suspect a decline in compression and or fueling/ spark delivery.
I’ve got 990s and 1107s so I don’t always have a choke. I think my technique could be better.
Cheaper and less to break going with these and having a spare pull start.

https://www.davesmotors.com/Axis-RC-Pull-Start-Thumb-Screws
Funny that, I’ve got those and I was going to do exactly that. I’ve got to watch my weight. ??
 
I've only had my spring break once and that was from when I blew my engine in the clay dust the dust got in with the spring and did some wierd stuff .. slow down the pulling and pretty sure all 1107's have choke i could be wrong
 
I've only had my spring break once and that was from when I blew my engine in the clay dust the dust got in with the spring and did some wierd stuff .. slow down the pulling and pretty sure all 1107's have choke i could be wrong
Yep thats the only difference as far as I’m aware. 990s don’t have choke but 1107s do.
Killer rc makes a rotostart, tr is garbage, fid seems okay .doubt the rcmax is heavier but I don't have experience with any of em ?
Forgot about the killer rc starter Z, they don’t make shite. I like the look of that the best.

Sold.
 
Rotostarts have their place but it's not on 1/5 gas engines. I like rotostarts for nitro. Absolutely nothing wrong with 1/5 gas pull starts as long as you understand how to do the "snappy short stroke" technique ;) . Remember 1/5 p/s's and NOT lawn mower pull starts and need to be worked accordingly. 1/5 p/s's don't have 6' of forgiving rope pull. 2 strokes develop compression every other stroke, and lawnmowers every 4th stroke. So you need to be very abrupt on the rope. A trick with a 2 stroke is gently pull the rope and feel the piston compression then continue to move the piston just past TDC . This gives you a full 1/2 rotation of non-compressing piston travel.
 
i have a killer roto start miles and they are decent, but be aware the one way bearings do fail sometimes in the driver part, they can be changed but pain in the arse, always have a spare driver part with ya if ya get one (y),
i've tried most pull starts as well, i had a zenoah pum pull start on the twin and that was mint, right up untill it starts to wear, then it eats the secondary springs, tr pull start is total wank imo, never could get mine to work right and it ate the secondary springs all the time,
the rofun/zelda/spovan 45 has an ezi start on it and tbh thats quite nice and smooth, but heard there are issues with em and they need a slight mod to the pawls, but that wont fit your engines anyways,
i just fitted a full size alloy ezi start pull start to the twin ( its a chinese version but is well made) instead of the zen pum one, juries out on that one at moment till i get the dragon hammer finished and up and running again, but its smooth, but also had to mod it a tad to get it to work on the twin,
the fid ezi pull start looks good , but is expensive for what it is in my view,
nowt wrong wi normal pull starts though
reason i prefer the ezi start ones is cos , well imagine trying to start yer rig whilst being sat down and ya cant hold the car down wi yer foot,
thats me :ROFLMAO:,
ezi starts make things easier in my case, but ya needs to keep em clean, same as any starter tbh though (y)(y)
 
I jumped on the ddm aluminum pawl when it was DOD..no not dead on delivery its deal of the day! :ROFLMAO: ...it boils down to technique and patience. Treat it as how you want to be woken up if someone jumps on the feking bed and goes get the fek up lazy ass its morning you tend to say oi gtfo my bed and go run into the wall ass hole. If you walk up quietly and say hey im gunna start you and be gentle you get a better reaction out of it :ROFLMAO:?‍♂️....piss off you feks ?
 
I’ve seen the OBR tuning video and I try that technique, more practice needed me thinks. But I do like the look of the killer rc starter, lighter than standard as well, which is what I’m after.
 
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