Pull starts

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spents said:
i have a killer roto start miles and they are decent, but be aware the one way bearings do fail sometimes in the driver part, they can be changed but pain in the arse, always have a spare driver part with ya if ya get one (y),
i've tried most pull starts as well, i had a zenoah pum pull start on the twin and that was mint, right up untill it starts to wear, then it eats the secondary springs, tr pull start is total wank imo, never could get mine to work right and it ate the secondary springs all the time,
the rofun/zelda/spovan 45 has an ezi start on it and tbh thats quite nice and smooth, but heard there are issues with em and they need a slight mod to the pawls, but that wont fit your engines anyways,
i just fitted a full size alloy ezi start pull start to the twin ( its a chinese version but is well made) instead of the zen pum one, juries out on that one at moment till i get the dragon hammer finished and up and running again, but its smooth, but also had to mod it a tad to get it to work on the twin,
the fid ezi pull start looks good , but is expensive for what it is in my view,
nowt wrong wi normal pull starts though
reason i prefer the ezi start ones is cos , well imagine trying to start yer rig whilst being sat down and ya cant hold the car down wi yer foot,
thats me :ROFLMAO:,
ezi starts make things easier in my case, but ya needs to keep em clean, same as any starter tbh though (y)(y)
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Spents your the man. ??

I just ordered a load of bits from Killer RC and you’ve confirmed my thoughts. Another few grams off the new rig.

I don’t completely agree with you PolarBus but for most easy applications the normal pull start is fine. Please remember I’m trying to build a Bantamweight rig.

Cheers all.??
 
If you have too much compression for a normal PS then the next step should probably be a compression release to make your life easy. I had the head modified on my KX500 to use a compression release and hands down the BEST money on a mod I ever spent !



 
Polar_Bus said:
If you have too much compression for a normal PS then the next step should probably be a compression release to make your life easy. I had the head modified on my KX500 to use a compression release and hands down the BEST money on a mod I ever spent !



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That looks nice mate, but I’m only using a ported piston 34 as my biggest engine for now.

Im not interested in big bores for myself right now. I’m trying to go a slightly different path. My efforts could end up in the bin with a rig made of cheese or it could be a success and a great super lightweight job.

I’m not pretending to be an expert but I have my ideas and I do know a bit about mechanical engineering. I think I am pushing things to the limit but I’m certainly not doing a Brokestroke and building something that will shite itself in seconds and be slower than a snail. Well I hope not anyway.

I know you know what your talking about but I’ve not seen anyone going to the extremes I’m intending. Maybe that’s a sign? let’s see. I’m sure I’ll give people some good ideas as well as ones to avoid.?
 
Seandonato73 said:
Never had a stock zen shite the bed, but I've also never had issues on any of my saw starters as well. For what it's worth the fid starter is pretty good. Shipping is slow and its heavy as fek. But it lasts.
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Heavy straight away is no good for me. I’ve ordered the killer rc job as that looks to be the lightest. I hope I get on with it.
 
Milo said:
Hey all,

Are FID or TR pull starts worth it, are they any good and are they much heavier than stock. I’ve also got my eye on the new easy start by RCMAX but that looks chunky and heavy.

My preference would be a roto start but can’t find one anywhere.

Please let me know your experiences?

Cheers,

Milo.
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TR JUNK , ROTO START JUNK. Sand got in the roto start and locked up the one way bearing on my OBR and destroyed it . The TR on the same motor only lasted a couple of runs. I didn't pull that hard on it .The spring inside is the weak link.
 
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1Coopgt said:
TR JUNK , ROTO START JUNK. Sand got in the roto start and locked up the one way bearing on my OBR and destroyed it . The TR on the same motor only lasted a couple of runs. I didn't pull that hard on it .The spring inside is the weak link.
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I too had similar p/s issues with my cheap Rovan, fine sand grit clogged and siezed the spring tension centrifugal pully pawls and after about an hr of bashing my p/s did not p/s. I was pissed. I wish there was an adaptor mod to run a quality chainsaw p/s on our 1/5 engines. Those designs almost NEVER fail.
 
Polar_Bus said:
Rotostarts have their place but it's not on 1/5 gas engines. I like rotostarts for nitro. Absolutely nothing wrong with 1/5 gas pull starts as long as you understand how to do the "snappy short stroke" technique ;) . Remember 1/5 p/s's and NOT lawn mower pull starts and need to be worked accordingly. 1/5 p/s's don't have 6' of forgiving rope pull. 2 strokes develop compression every other stroke, and lawnmowers every 4th stroke. So you need to be very abrupt on the rope. A trick with a 2 stroke is gently pull the rope and feel the piston compression then continue to move the piston just past TDC . This gives you a full 1/2 rotation of non-compressing piston traveI.
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I bought a used 1984 CR 500 the last year for air cooled and it had some upgrades done to it. I was only 17 and probably about 170 lbs , I had it 4 days before I could even start it! I had to learn the right way, getter just coming down off TDC and kick right through it. God forbid it kicked back!

Had a lot of guys I knew want to ride it. Rule was if you can start it, you can take her for a rip. Had only 2 friends that were able to do it without me showing them. One guy dumped the clutch and stalled it then gave up cause his foot was too sore to try again! ?
 
Had a 96 cr500 worked over hard, by our uncle tom. He ran semi pro mx, till he passed. That was a treat to start. Normally had to Lean it against a wash poll or trailer and jump on the starter with both feet to start it in the morning. Got easier as I (we, me and brothers) got older. Ended up getting rid of it, just wasnt fun to ride if you didnt have the room to open it up. Miss it now, but I also miss my kz250 as well.
 
Milo said:
Hey all,

Are FID or TR pull starts worth it, are they any good and are they much heavier than stock. I’ve also got my eye on the new easy start by RCMAX but that looks chunky and heavy.

My preference would be a roto start but can’t find one anywhere.

Please let me know your experiences?

Cheers,

Milo.
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I own (2) TR pull starts, (1) on my Losi 5 T and (1) on my Vekta 5.
They are well worth the money, wear and tear is at a minimal when using high compression motors.
Stay away from the Alumina Cog replacement part. it will seize up the pull start.
William E. Burrows Jr.
 

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I’ve ordered the killer rc one with a couple of spinny things to connect my drill to it. I like the idea because the one way bearing isn’t in the starter housing but in the cheap spinny bit. So less to go wrong and cheap to replace if it does.

I know it’s more to carry but I need to bring so much shite when I go out anyway a small drill isn’t a problem.
 
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