MonsterAir
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Large is 4mm medium is 3.5mm. From the losi oe kit
Reps 5t 2.0 v2 build thread
- Thread starter Rep732
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Heaviest will be best for on road. You want to do everything you can to minimize weight transfer side to side and to the back. Weight transfer to the front will help with steering and breaking but that will be personal preference
John Parks
Print my own
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@niz55 holy crap that is massive... is that in the tlr kit?
Yes it is the TLR 5b kit that i am building.
Here is a quick video.
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4mm is the big one in the losi kit. It comes with 3, 3.5 and 4mm bars. I have the 4mm bars on my 5ivet. Body roll is minimal and it keeps the tires very upright, but it also will spin out a lot quicker. Almost like it transitions from under steer or even a neutral steer into over steer quicker. Nice for sliding around though.
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Yes sir they do. Fits very nicely.
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So I'm about maxed out here with upgrading the 5ive. So I have full irp links, and just added rc fox adjustable caster blocks as I've been fighting push in the turns on or off throttle. I realized that the trucks geometry is set for dirt handling and is decently set up for drifting as on throttle off throttle steering response is crisp if it's sliding and I just don't want to slide the truck every corner. I'm 2 seconds behind the leader which is a bone stock worn out 5ive-t v1. I also added the TLR adjustable front hinge pin brace to help level out the front arms and get the angle out of them. Also from lowering the truck my angles were horrible on the steering links to the bellcrank so I was able to move them to the bottom of the spindle arm from the top and their nice and flat now. I also started at zero degrees caster and will keep trying various degrees to see where it responds the best, I also added the 4.8mm sway bars to it. Due to how tight the course is I have to drop down from a 8k spring and I'll be trying either a 5k or 6k engagement, the other 5ive is running a 6k.
MonsterAir
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Ahhh but drifting around corners is so much more fun 
I wanna bet the stock v1 is running lighter diff fluid. I wish it wasn't such a pia to swap wts.
I wanna bet the stock v1 is running lighter diff fluid. I wish it wasn't such a pia to swap wts.
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@MonsterAir yea he's stock except a cheap ebay pipe, doesn't even run an air filter to boot so that's some salt in the wound ..... he also runs a 6k engagement clutch spring and it helps take the snappy behavior down alot and makes it more controllable. Having tried an 8k and a 9500k spring I can tell you that it's a point and shoot into every corner. I'm way overpowered for the track so I'd I can really tweak the suspension I think my overpowered rig can finally start to be more graceful without sliding.
I went to a drift event this past weekend and it dawned on me that the geometry on the 5ive t is to help promote sliding and on power turns while the tires are spinning. I say this as the drift cars now mind you most of these were pro spec cars and they could not turn well for the life of them going slow and not sliding also not to mention the fact if their not sliding their cars just push through and even at full lock under good momentum they could not turn. Now on the other hand if they slid they could turn on a dime and had very precise and controlled steering and thats how the five t is responding.
..... he also runs a 6k engagement clutch spring and it helps take the snappy behavior down alot and makes it more controllable. Having tried an 8k and a 9500k spring I can tell you that it's a point and shoot into every corner. I'm way overpowered for the track so I'd I can really tweak the suspension I think my overpowered rig can finally start to be more graceful without sliding.I went to a drift event this past weekend and it dawned on me that the geometry on the 5ive t is to help promote sliding and on power turns while the tires are spinning. I say this as the drift cars now mind you most of these were pro spec cars and they could not turn well for the life of them going slow and not sliding also not to mention the fact if their not sliding their cars just push through and even at full lock under good momentum they could not turn. Now on the other hand if they slid they could turn on a dime and had very precise and controlled steering and thats how the five t is responding.
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MonsterAir
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I feel your pain. I'm one of the slower ones in our group so I like to blame it on my servo 
.... Take a look at what matt Olson's diff setup. He's just about running water in them. 5-15-10 or something like that. I know, dirt vs asphalt but last you told me you were running 125k. I'm running 50-1mil-50 and I have a nasty push too. I think it's that million wt in the middle. My next setup for onroad will be 50-100-30 but I think that will be too heavy in the center too. Just don't enjoy the idea of taking them apart.
.... Take a look at what matt Olson's diff setup. He's just about running water in them. 5-15-10 or something like that. I know, dirt vs asphalt but last you told me you were running 125k. I'm running 50-1mil-50 and I have a nasty push too. I think it's that million wt in the middle. My next setup for onroad will be 50-100-30 but I think that will be too heavy in the center too. Just don't enjoy the idea of taking them apart.
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@MonsterAir yea i know the feeling, im getting tired of pulling diffs apart. I have now moved down to 2k diff oil in the rear and I can still power slide it with no issue. I honestly really believe it's the front steering geometry that's messing with us and ill be trying the truck out later and I'll let you know if I managed to get better results. I'm even using a agfrc 75kg servo for steering and it's strong and super fast so I can't say it's that. The caster blocks i got aren't cheap at almost $100 bucks a side but its the last piece to the puzzle then I have nothing left to change.