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- 13,105
Measure them up once and post the dimensions. They look very similar to the 5ive t body mounts. I have some spares I'd post you if they are the same size
RickDizzle's Raminator Build
- Thread starter RickDizzle
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- Messages
- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #42
@Seandonato73 ...thank you sir. Ill get measurements this evening.
As for today...today was fire up and break in day!
I ran a mix of 24:1 and left the carb at its way rich mixture. Had to adjust idle set screw a tad to get her to hold once fired, but ran amazing. I ran at idle on the stool for 30 mins, then shut it down and let it cool all the way to ambient temp of 75..about 15 mins. Then I ran it again for 30 mins..same thing. Temps stated 215ish. Took her out to the road and man is this thing awesome. Did 3 approx 10 min runs varying the throttle from 1/4 - 1/2 throttle then let cool for 10 mins between each. Temps were high 290s still. Third run started leaning out high needle a tad. Just as I was starting to get to speed, still slow thank heavens...the back of the truck bunny hopped up and I heard the clink of metal. The U joint completely came apart! Not broken but just came apart. Looked at the front...it was on the verge!
Here is the front. Notice the red arrow.
On my electric rigs, these have a small clip holding these in. These have nothing. I was able to reassemble it by hand. So how do I fix this? What is the best way to get that pin to stay in? My thought, degrease the heck out of it all, then use some sort of loctite possibly on that pin maybe. Need some ideas here fellas. The bunny hop was the drive shaft making contact with the ground launching the back end. Thank heavens I was not moving at a high speed!
Lastly as being new to brap, should I be concerned about engine temps like nitro rigs or as long as I am not super lean and see smoke, temps are not a big issue?
Look forward to your feedback as I don't wanna run again until I fix this u-joint issue.
As for today...today was fire up and break in day!
I ran a mix of 24:1 and left the carb at its way rich mixture. Had to adjust idle set screw a tad to get her to hold once fired, but ran amazing. I ran at idle on the stool for 30 mins, then shut it down and let it cool all the way to ambient temp of 75..about 15 mins. Then I ran it again for 30 mins..same thing. Temps stated 215ish. Took her out to the road and man is this thing awesome. Did 3 approx 10 min runs varying the throttle from 1/4 - 1/2 throttle then let cool for 10 mins between each. Temps were high 290s still. Third run started leaning out high needle a tad. Just as I was starting to get to speed, still slow thank heavens...the back of the truck bunny hopped up and I heard the clink of metal. The U joint completely came apart! Not broken but just came apart. Looked at the front...it was on the verge!
Here is the front. Notice the red arrow.
On my electric rigs, these have a small clip holding these in. These have nothing. I was able to reassemble it by hand. So how do I fix this? What is the best way to get that pin to stay in? My thought, degrease the heck out of it all, then use some sort of loctite possibly on that pin maybe. Need some ideas here fellas. The bunny hop was the drive shaft making contact with the ground launching the back end. Thank heavens I was not moving at a high speed!
Lastly as being new to brap, should I be concerned about engine temps like nitro rigs or as long as I am not super lean and see smoke, temps are not a big issue?
Look forward to your feedback as I don't wanna run again until I fix this u-joint issue.
- Messages
- 19,475
Use loctite and do some heat shrink on the u joint , should keep the pin in. As for temps, don't bother. As long as its not running super lean it will be fine.
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- 1,377
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- 1,364
- Location
- Central New Jersey
I am having the same issue with my Vekta and I just heatshrinked mine today.That should take care of the problem.
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- 17,175
- Location
- Crafers South Australia
Lucky you didnt lose the pin??
- Messages
- 2,390
- Location
- Rochester,NY
Red Loctite for the pins and Shrink sleeving over them as Z said. Should work good. Pretty sure RC Sparks had the same problem ,only his came apart while bashing in snow .
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- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #48
Yeah for sure! Luckily I was going slow on my road and everything fell out right under the truck. The pinion angle is pretty extreme on this thing. And since its offset from the transfer case...there is a lot of movement at at the point of the u-joint. Heat shrink is gonna be a no go there. RC Sparks had his come apart where the drive shaft meets the transfer case. I addressed that area by using thick heat shrink w glue inside. These are the actual u joints coming apart. So I cleaned everything with brake cleaner and then reassembled using a good amount of red loctite. Tried heat shrink too...but just a few rotations and it was already all bound up and working itself loose.. So cut it back off. Here are a few pics.
I am hoping that the red loctite on the fresh clean surface setting up for 15 hours or so should hold. What you guys think?
I am hoping that the red loctite on the fresh clean surface setting up for 15 hours or so should hold. What you guys think?
- Messages
- 19,475
I'd do the whole 24hrs.
- Messages
- 13,105
It's still gonna be an issue..... needs a redesign for longer pins and c clips to retain them. If theres anything I've been disappointed in on these it's the chicken shite driveshafts, I'm hoping someone comes out with something better. The angle is very hard for the type of joint being used. Wonder if we could interest haric in another project?
- Messages
- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks Z will do that for sure then! Wish I could run the heat shrink...just too extreme of articulation with the pinion angle and the offset transfer case. Also looks like @Seandonato73 called it correct! Even withthe check valve in the vent look what we have here. So tomorrow will relocate that for sure. Was so hoping the check would prevent that.
Also you can see this thing running 24:1 on Dominator and rich as can be...made a mess..lol.
And for sure @Seandonato73 , I would pay good $ for some nice pins with clips on them for this thing. If that pin would have dropped at speed when tuned...sure that drive shaft hitting the pavement wouldn't have just bunny hopped the rear..could have been much worse. Just gonna have to be a point to monitor. If @Haric game to make some pins w clips I'm in for a couple sets!
Also you can see this thing running 24:1 on Dominator and rich as can be...made a mess..lol.
And for sure @Seandonato73 , I would pay good $ for some nice pins with clips on them for this thing. If that pin would have dropped at speed when tuned...sure that drive shaft hitting the pavement wouldn't have just bunny hopped the rear..could have been much worse. Just gonna have to be a point to monitor. If @Haric game to make some pins w clips I'm in for a couple sets!
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- 13,105
Rick, you can just call me sean lol. Cheers.
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- 1,065
- Location
- Southern California
@RickDizzle What size are those pins?
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- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #54
There is unfortunately no size listed in the manual nor on Primal's site. And I loctited mine in earlier tonight. Ill see if I can get the dimensions of them tomorrow from Primal.
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- 1,065
- Location
- Southern California
Ok
I need the width and length on both??
I need the width and length on both??
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- Messages
- 2,390
- Location
- Rochester,NY
If the red loctite doesn't work you can try Green Wicking Loctite. It takes a lot of heat to undo it compared to Red. Or you can try getting some pins that are threaded on one end and tap the Universal joint on one side and then use blue or red loctite on the threads. I did this on my front hubs to hold them inplace . I don't use loctite though because of the o-ring wrapped around the hubs over the set screw.
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- 19,475
Before you go the custom route, Why not just use a bolt like this (obviously the strongest one you can get) and use a lock nut on the other side?
- Messages
- 2,390
- Location
- Rochester,NY
The pin going through the Universal joint isn't that big . Probably only about 3 to 3.5mm in dia from the looks of it. The pins it uses are hardened Steel or Stainless steel.
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- 19,475
Was just an example but why couldn't he use a titanium or hardened steel bolt ? Actually Curious
- Messages
- 2,390
- Location
- Rochester,NY
This I understand. TI screws are expensive and you can't just buy 1 or 2 as needed. A hardened screw you would need to tap all the way through the universal joinf so you could thread the screw in . If you didn't do that the universal joint would wear the thread on the screw off and probably damage both then you would end up replacing the joint too. Hopefully the red loctite is enough.