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Wow , I gotta get there with mine ,lipo has to give the steering a lot of help , and the straps are pink !!! Cool !
RickDizzle's Raminator Build
- Thread starter RickDizzle
- Start date
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- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #122
Excuse me sir....they are neon red as offered by Pure-Tech. They match the antenna tube. Lol. They don't look pink in real life... ???
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- 1,296
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- Spoklahoma Washington
OOOOPS !
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- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #124
Lol! All good....Mrs. Dizzle said they looked orange to her. Its an odd red but closest I could get. Still looks better then the unravelling black stock ones. ??
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- 1,296
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- Spoklahoma Washington
PEUTER ?
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- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #126
Got to run the rig full bore today finally. The Savox servos and running on lipo...what a difference. Just ran it around some dirt areas around my neighborhood and got some good pics. I ran for a solid 50 mins and my 2s lipo was still at 7.94 volts, 3.97 per cell when done. Very happy that I went to this set up. Here are a few pics!
- Messages
- 17,175
- Location
- Crafers South Australia
Looking good ?
- Messages
- 1,296
- Location
- Spoklahoma Washington
That's a beautiful thing !! Your just trying to talk me into lipo set up ? maybe run it down for me again ? Y splitter , reverse servo , throttle servo , brake servo , what else , besides battery
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- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #129
To convert to lipo all you need is the following;
● High voltage accepting throttle servo
● High voltage accepting reverse servo
(If your throttle servo moves the wrong way for how its mounted, will need a servo reversing circuit.)
● Lipo battery, 2s, 6500 mah.
Brake servo and steering servos are already high voltage accepting with no issues. Just make sure you set end points no matter what you run. With the high voltage, you could easily overdrive the servos and burn them up.
● High voltage accepting throttle servo
● High voltage accepting reverse servo
(If your throttle servo moves the wrong way for how its mounted, will need a servo reversing circuit.)
● Lipo battery, 2s, 6500 mah.
Brake servo and steering servos are already high voltage accepting with no issues. Just make sure you set end points no matter what you run. With the high voltage, you could easily overdrive the servos and burn them up.
- Messages
- 1,296
- Location
- Spoklahoma Washington
I will ponder this , got a tax return , might be able to do it , I'm sure there's a reversed servo out there somewhere , what about turning the servo around , just a thought , didn't hurt a bit , this truck is awesome , just experimenting with the shocks , I've loaded the inside springs lot ,left the outside ones as loose as possible , at least it isn't rolling over on corners now , still not right on jumps , I guess the springs have to go , I'll try that next
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- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #131
So after having the trucks power switch fail and Sean recommending that I get a Killer RC switch, I had some free time to get it installed today.
The Killer RC switch is really beefy and I like that its sealed, so should prevent any issues down the road from dust and dirt getting in. First thing I found is that the switch will not fit into the switch plate/bracket that is stock with the truck as pictured here.
The Killer RC switch has a smaller footprint. I didn't care for the flimsy plastic that was stock either.
Here is how the Killer RC switch arrives.
As being the stock plate doesn't fit the switch and is too flimsy, I opted to make a nice aluminum switch plate. I used 1/16" by 1.5" strip of aluminum. I cut it to 3.5" and then cleaned it up. Drilled the holes to go into the stock location. I then used the supplied template to cut the hole for the switch. You will want to confirm your placement, as it must fit between two cross bars on the chassis. Once I got it all fitting. I cleaned up my aluminum piece and made it look as nice as I could. I wired the switch in at that point. I opted to hard wire it in, by soldering the switch to my Deans battery plug and the other end to the trucks wire harness. You can also use plugs if you choose so it is removable. After soldering it up, i applied heat shrink and then did final assembly. You will want to add a dab of Shoe Goo around the back of the switch to ensure it has something to hold it firmly in place. It pops in nice, but has a tad of play. I think it came out really nice and looks better then stock in my opinion. I also like that the switch illuminates when it is in the "on" position. Here is the final result.
The Killer RC switch is really beefy and I like that its sealed, so should prevent any issues down the road from dust and dirt getting in. First thing I found is that the switch will not fit into the switch plate/bracket that is stock with the truck as pictured here.
The Killer RC switch has a smaller footprint. I didn't care for the flimsy plastic that was stock either.
Here is how the Killer RC switch arrives.
As being the stock plate doesn't fit the switch and is too flimsy, I opted to make a nice aluminum switch plate. I used 1/16" by 1.5" strip of aluminum. I cut it to 3.5" and then cleaned it up. Drilled the holes to go into the stock location. I then used the supplied template to cut the hole for the switch. You will want to confirm your placement, as it must fit between two cross bars on the chassis. Once I got it all fitting. I cleaned up my aluminum piece and made it look as nice as I could. I wired the switch in at that point. I opted to hard wire it in, by soldering the switch to my Deans battery plug and the other end to the trucks wire harness. You can also use plugs if you choose so it is removable. After soldering it up, i applied heat shrink and then did final assembly. You will want to add a dab of Shoe Goo around the back of the switch to ensure it has something to hold it firmly in place. It pops in nice, but has a tad of play. I think it came out really nice and looks better then stock in my opinion. I also like that the switch illuminates when it is in the "on" position. Here is the final result.
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- 1,296
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- Spoklahoma Washington
Very cool !
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- 13,105
Looks very nice
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- Thread starter
- #134
Had a chance to get some motivation for continuing to try to add a scale look to my Raminator. Spent the afternoon with these guys yesterday! Also got to talk to Bari Musawwir (Driver of Zombie) about his Electric 1/5th monster truck he has designed and been working to get into production. He is hoping to get it into production in the next 12-18 months. Will be cool to see it hit the market!
Here are some pics from the day! Enjoy!
Here are some pics from the day! Enjoy!
KevTrem
Well-Known Member
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- 897
- Location
- Newcastle, UK
My 2 boys (3 and 5 years old) are MonsterJam mad, we are planning a trip hopefully next year probably year after to get over to the States when MonsterJam are in Cali or Vegas.
I'd love to see the trucks close up just to admire the engineering behind them, I could crawl over one for hours lol.
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I love Monster Jam
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- Messages
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- Spoklahoma Washington
SOOOOO !! COOL !! THANX FOR THE PICS ! got my drive shaft back together on the ram ,have you had any driveshaft pins come out at all ? Looking for a solution for that , or maybe it's s RC max power issue 
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- 1,377
- Thread starter
- #139
Sure did, within one of my first couple runs. Check page 3, post 42 on this build thread. I ended up cleaning it all really good with brake cleaner, then used red loctite on the pin and got it pushed back in. Let it cure for 24 hours and have not had an issue since. This pins really need some sort of clip to hold them in. Press fitting them seams to fail due to vibration.SOOOOO !! COOL !! THANX FOR THE PICS ! got my drive shaft back together on the ram ,have you had any driveshaft pins come out at all ? Looking for a solution for that , or maybe it's s RC max power issue
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Ya , I geuss that's the answer , should be a collar slot on the thing , all pins , but just my opinion , Wich I've been told just don't matter much anymore 