Time To Get The Baja Race Ready!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
MonsterAir said:
You know my braking is gonna be done up front! lol I'm a fiddling moron and take my stuff apart too much. It's not about the brakes per say I was more referring to the diff. Maybe I've been going at it wrong but easiest way to pull it is taking off the gear plate but need to remove the rear brakes first. or I just now I found a good reason to get the rcmax quick diff. Been having trouble with the diff leaking even when not running. New oring but maybe it's getting pinched somewhere. Running 5k right now.



I did not think about cutting a allen, I use the harbor freight straight hex w/ t handle and thanks for the MOD suggestion looking into that now. I'm glad you told me Victory is the same, I was about to sell this and buy one of them. I would have been furious!:mad:




Now I just gotta figure out how I'm gonna bend this aluminum? 1/8" thick.




View attachment 69329
Click to expand...
Vice and a big fecking hammer ?? the mod header lock is really the best, last season my header bolts were falling out literally every 2 runs and that kit fixed all that BS and makes it easier to tighten
 
Z, I wish it was that easy. I don't have a vise or a place to put one. I'm gonna have to rig my 12 ton press to hold it in place. and @Seandonato73 it's aluminum. Crappy cell phone camera, I break too many phones to consider spending for than $80 on a phone lol. Droid Turbo 2 for life! :D
 
Pipe is half way to being fitted! Got the bracket worked out today and now just need to cut down a allen and order up that MOD header kit. Idk why I thought bending this aluminum was gonna be tough, it bent over with one good wack lol.


Not the prettiest thing in the world but it works and is very sturdy lol.... Should I look for a rubber grommet to put under the support flange or whatever ya call it?


DSC_0070.JPGDSC_0100.JPG
 
MonsterAir said:
I don't think so but they come with alloy sleeves/inserts so idk why you would need to use plastic.
Click to expand...
so the hpi plastic toe inserts fit... with some beer can shimming ?
and the 4deg insert is dead on 4deg in it.
the raw aluminium inserts are even more loose fit and the 6mm through hole is also giving a tons of play to the wheel. (because it is 6mm+).
yes, i know about the set screw. it fixes the sleeve against axial move and radial too (for a while)

AB0F9B0B-F2EE-45DF-A973-BFC1F8ED9FB0.jpeg4140367E-567A-480F-8230-BDAF0604C6F2.jpeg79CC3688-FAC1-4247-8064-AC8565B67BF8.jpegF08E1AAD-9C38-44E5-88EF-CB661C81F59E.jpeg
 
szaki75 said:
so the hpi plastic toe inserts fit... with some beer can shimming ?
and the 4deg insert is dead on 4deg in it.
the raw aluminium inserts are even more loose fit and the 6mm through hole is also giving a tons of play to the wheel. (because it is 6mm+).
yes, i know about the set screw. it fixes the sleeve against axial move and radial too (for a while)

View attachment 69533View attachment 69534View attachment 69536View attachment 69537
Click to expand...

Very nice! I haven't gotten a chance to measure the toe and make sure it's on, with the alloy sleeves that is. I'm sticking with the alloy inserts for now (still haven't run it since fitting). I just feel the alloy will hold shape better after kartwheels and such. Good post dude!!!
 
Having some issues with my gear mesh or rather a bad vibration in the gears. I thought it was the rubber feet on the plastic spur that were outta wack but now I have to start moving down the list as the metal gear is doing the same. Just ordered new bearings for the clutch carrier but I'm not 100% sure that's the issue as the pinion spins free with no major vibration (def has a bad bearing I checked). So I ordered a RCMAX titanium layshaft but after doing that in haste I realized that the layshaft is not my issue, oh well I guess I wanted it so bad I made an excuse.

I'm now thinking my rear chassis plate in sagging. Should these holes be lining up or do you guys have to give a little push to get things in line?

IMG_20210213_224010830.jpg
 
If your bolt holes ain't lining up,the rear chassis is probably bent. You can force it into place (normally mine is like .2mm off so I do push up) but those rear chassis are extremely flimsy so an upgrade is suggested. I would do Bonehead Carbon fiber for light weight.
 
Z.hb71 said:
If your bolt holes ain't lining up,the rear chassis is probably bent. You can force it into place (normally mine is like .2mm off so I do push up) but those rear chassis are extremely flimsy so an upgrade is suggested. I would do Bonehead Carbon fiber for light weight.
Click to expand...
I was actually just looking at the Bonehead carbon bits. Comparable to the billet versions in price so that's def an option I just don't know how it will hold up to rolls, cartwheels and jumps. I'm going to reach out to them and modified rc about weight and make my decision from there. It's def the rear chassis plate. Spent some time fiddling with it and got the vibration down a bit but like you said 'flimsy' so more parts to order! YaY! Haven't even gotten tires yet, looking at MadMax pins for the track I'll be running on.


evssv said:
https://flic.kr/p/2hE4sMj
irc v2 5mm plate ?
https://flic.kr/p/2hE8E2p
Click to expand...

How much was that and where did you find it? TIA
 
Back
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks