Vekta.5 lse stock’ish build

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Im guessing front 4 hole rear 8 hole? According to manual pic?
 

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I might go with the diff housing also.

If you are thinking about buying the hubs and spindle the bore on the bearings housing is too small. You need get round sander with a dremel and clean of the anodized and afterwards you need heat it up with a torch in order to insert the bearings. I will contact Steve and let him know about this issue.

Inner bore measure 31.78MM and the bearings is 32mm.



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I might go with the diff housing also.

If you are thinking about buying the hubs and spindle the bore on the bearings housing is too small. You need get round sander with a dremel and clean of the anodized and afterwards you need heat it up with a torch in order to insert the bearings. I will contact Steve and let him know about this issue.

Inner bore measure 31.78MM and the bearings is 32mm.



View attachment 71358
That's an unacceptable clearance issue, they should really send out a new set.
 
Slimed the orings and shafts.
Teflon taped cap threads.
Used the vertigo shaft with special ordered shims to replace crush washer. Actually used several more shims on both shafts. Transmission is nice and smooth with no slop. All the mounting screws lined up and screwed together nicely. zero clutch wobble. Perfect gear mesh.
Not painting the gear cover. I like it see through.
 

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Ended up using one shim on the bottom shaft and 3 on the vertigo shaft. Shims are 14mm od x 8mm id x .5mm thick.

The pin holes on the yokes and on the splined shaft all line up perfectly strait.
This shaft is in phase.
 

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Ended up using one shim on the bottom shaft and 3 on the vertigo shaft. Shims are 14mm od x 8mm id x .5mm thick.

The pin holes on the yokes and on the splined shaft all line up perfectly strait.
This shaft is in phase.
That's surprising, they must not have a particular order how they are built, or the issue was actually fixed
 
That is weird. My kit is a new one too and the pinholes all line up perfectly. Im sure you can get a warranty shaft.
Nope, contacted DDM about it, and was told it was normal for them to be a tooth out of phase ?. I'm gonna play with mine and if rotating the shaft around 180 and sticking the pin back in doesn't work it's getting welded in the right position, till the cvd comes back in stock.
 
I might go with the diff housing also.

If you are thinking about buying the hubs and spindle the bore on the bearings housing is too small. You need get round sander with a dremel and clean of the anodized and afterwards you need heat it up with a torch in order to insert the bearings. I will contact Steve and let him know about this issue.

Inner bore measure 31.78MM and the bearings is 32mm.



View attachment 71358
Yep. Mine were tight as well...I put my bearings in the freezer and heated spindle they drop right in...its how they should be..I own a rzr and this is how I swap new bearings and I've done this a fews as I ride hard
 
Went 4 hole front and rear. The stock fluids with 4 hole pistons in my opinion is just too darn stiff. Picked up some fork oil. Much better action with good dampening now.
20 front 10 rear.
Got power now.
 

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Ypu didnt change weight hardly at all if your fork fluid follows cst, or weight conversions the heavier stock fluid is under 30wt oil, and the lighter oil is piss thin. When I put mine together I was thinking I should have heavier weight fluid in them with the 4 hole pistons. Will see how it acts whenever its up and running.
 
Oh i assure you when i tried the stock fluid and compared them it was like molasses in them. They are a good step or two faster action with the fork oil when I was comparing one with stock one with fork oil.
on another note the 8 hole with stock fluid would have been too soft.
 
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