Custom 70cc engine build

Is it worth it or stupid?

  • YES

    Votes: 20 62.5%
  • Hell no

    Votes: 2 6.3%
  • Kinda

    Votes: 4 12.5%
  • YES

    Votes: 3 9.4%
  • Nah I'll pass

    Votes: 3 9.4%

  • Total voters
    32
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Do you have a specific bit size that I can buy? I'd prefer not to go to a machine shop to get this done as that's gunna be a pain in the ass, and I don't know if there's any nearby.

Keep in mind that drill bits can give you a not perfect hole in roundness. Also we have seen it before in the shop that drills and reamers do no always do what they say on size. Since it is only a one shot deal and you have a lot of time invested in this project. I would not cut corners this close to making it run. Safer to take it to a machine shop and have them bore it.
 
Keep in mind that drill bits can give you a not perfect hole in roundness. Also we have seen it before in the shop that drills and reamers do no always do what they say on size. Since it is only a one shot deal and you have a lot of time invested in this project. I would not cut corners this close to making it run. Safer to take it to a machine shop and have them bore it.
Ok, I'll see how local a machine shop is. Having a hard time even finding that size reamer, sooo it's looking like a machine shop will probably be the only way to go.
 
Well I just got me a $10.33 refund for my oil seals that never came, which is going to go to diff fluid and a diff rebuild kit. Because, when I re assmebled my diff, I think it was leaking and something wasn't assmebled right so it locks and unlocks, so I'm Gunna go back and fix that to maximize the life of this stock transmission, hopefully it holds long enough for when I go and get some blackbone gears and everything else is need for my bullet proof tranny build. Also I've decided to go for a brushed aluminum look on my custom peices just because for a mirror finish I would be like $20 in supplies when to me, $20 is spent better elsewhere, so if I'm successful in my brushed aluminum look, I'll make a thread so maybe if you have some raw alu pieces u want to make look better, you'll know. And later down the road, I can always go back and go for a mirror finisn if I want to ?
 
Well I just got me a $10.33 refund for my oil seals that never came, which is going to go to diff fluid and a diff rebuild kit. Because, when I re assmebled my diff, I think it was leaking and something wasn't assmebled right so it locks and unlocks, so I'm Gunna go back and fix that to maximize the life of this stock transmission, hopefully it holds long enough for when I go and get some blackbone gears and everything else is need for my bullet proof tranny build.
Good news for you ? bad news for the stock diff?????
 
Same here, so finicky ?

Ive messed with some in my smaller scales ,but never had my BS scale out & apart ,thank God it still works ,
I was ebaying an seen a diff spool an it reminded me of my Baja ,but it is not broke yet!

I don't have a clue on what it even exist of inside!
 
Ive messed with some in my smaller scales ,but never had my BS scale out & apart ,thank God it still works ,
I was ebaying an seen a diff spool an it reminded me of my Baja ,but it is not broke yet!

I don't have a clue on what it even exist of inside!
My mugens diff was a breeze, this diff is a stupid ass design in my opinion because it has so many pieces and has these little square things that can be removed that hold the spider gears. Could have just made like any other diff but that would be too easy ?
 
My mugens diff was a breeze, this diff is a stupid ass design in my opinion because it has so many pieces and has these little square things that can be removed that hold the spider gears. Could have just made like any other diff but that would be too easy ?
You could always put a locker in it . A lot less parts that's for sure. I almost bought one over the winter when I was working on my diff over the winter.
 
Mark is probably right. I honestly don't know anything about them. I know that it would act like the posi in my Camaro . Turning would get more difficult for sure.

I locked the rear in my Mgt. ,I didn't like it ,it was touchy on the brakes in cornering ,an may have an effect on handling!
I don't know about wear ,but ,it does make sense because there is no give!

I locked my diff with silly putty ,so there was some give in mine in case something jammed up!
 
weirdly don't really mind getting into the diffs, cleaning the old grease out sucks though.
to each their own though, i hate messing with steering stuff lol. always feels like it has a tiny bit of bind so i strip back down and restart over to confirm everything is as it should be and make sure there isnt any random grit or animal hair that made it into the bearings, bushings, or moving parts.

i wouldnt lock the diffs, it kills your steering, exponentially worse on 2wd. and because there is no way a diff can unload when locked there is alot more slamming from the driveshafts. if you were crawling and needed power to all wheels all the time i would say to lock but doesn't seem like the case.
 
weirdly don't really mind getting into the diffs, cleaning the old grease out sucks though.
to each their own though, i hate messing with steering stuff lol. always feels like it has a tiny bit of bind so i strip back down and restart over to confirm everything is as it should be and make sure there isnt any random grit or animal hair that made it into the bearings, bushings, or moving parts.

i wouldnt lock the diffs, it kills your steering, exponentially worse on 2wd. and because there is no way a diff can unload when locked there is alot more slamming from the driveshafts. if you were crawling and needed power to all wheels all the time i would say to lock but doesn't seem like the case.

LOL....I only locked the rear diff. ,it was funny because at full WOT ,the front tires swelled up bad an the rear stayed small...LOL...
I think that's why I ditched the posi .IT JUST DIDNT LOOK RIGHT AT FULL WOT!.....
 
weirdly don't really mind getting into the diffs, cleaning the old grease out sucks though.
to each their own though, i hate messing with steering stuff lol. always feels like it has a tiny bit of bind so i strip back down and restart over to confirm everything is as it should be and make sure there isnt any random grit or animal hair that made it into the bearings, bushings, or moving parts.

i wouldnt lock the diffs, it kills your steering, exponentially worse on 2wd. and because there is no way a diff can unload when locked there is alot more slamming from the driveshafts. if you were crawling and needed power to all wheels all the time i would say to lock but doesn't seem like the case.
Yeah I'm not crawling, just high speed bashing or on road. I also don't really like steering stuff, it's finicky and I can't seem to get it right, so that's why I always have a ton of play in my steering system LOL, need to work on that.
 
That is another thing that folks don't stop to consider ,as I learned when I got my MT.!

The street is harder on the trans because of the high grip of aggressive tires with the asphalt ,
I learned to adjust my slipper a little loose when I take it out on the street ,its a lot easier on
the gears & o-way bearing in the trans!

I am not sure about the 5th scale of any 0-ways ,but is definitely harder on trans gears!
 
That is another thing that folks don't stop to consider ,as I learned when I got my MT.!

The street is harder on the trans because of the high grip of aggressive tires with the asphalt ,
I learned to adjust my slipper a little loose when I take it out on the street ,its a lot easier on
the gears & o-way bearing in the trans!

I am not sure about the 5th scale of any 0-ways ,but is definitely harder on trans gears!
Oh Believe me, having too much grip won't be a problem ? It will be like ice skating with these crappy tires ??
 
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