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Timmahh said:
the end exit wires may not be TOO Bad. depending on pack length.
Click to expand...

I wish the width of the battery box was a few mm's wider. That would have really helped. I would have rather had end exit wires honestly. The side ones the solder had worked it's way up about a quarter of an inch in the insulation making bending the wires about impossible.
 
my SMC 5000 hc pack fit great, EXCEPT right where the battery box is clearnaced for the chain. that little damn angle part, made the hc pack kick up on that corner, and what a MOFO to get the lid pinned.



lol, you know, mother nature makes things for that problem Mini-Rob, don't you? lol

im embarking on another major type mod. Im probably a fool, as im still learning how to drive a bike. lol but my anal retentive ways, and mechanical mind cant let me not ponder the what ifs.

have to fix/get a rear shock as i broke mine yesterday. lost the retaining pirch the day before, so ghetto fabbed one up, and im confident it helped in the shock shaft brakage (rear). so i have to get a shaft, or a shock to get back running before i can even test the new modss.

I did take 15 of the 20 weights out of the Modified RC lightened Gyro (was running a full tilt setup). very noticable differance in weight, and also in spool up, control, steering, ect. had to relearn the bike all over. lol but by the time i broke the shaft, i was getting it down pretty good. just running in my front yard, which is pretty ruff atm. was bouncy as all get out, wil need to put the stock rear spring on as the HD spring was too much for the lighter gyro and bouncy yard.
 
I did my first run this evening in the street. This is a lot more difficult than I thought but those training bars are helpful. I'm going to have to head to the playground for a wider open area to practice.
 
it takes a bit to change the mind set from driving cars. as soon as you are on the crash bars you need to stand it up a bit. which means opposite thinking. turn into the direction of the corner...

man I am dying reading and typing here while I wait for my parts, stuff hanging off my dirt bike on the shelf, rear end in a container beside it. I haven't even opened the new gyro.

so Timmahh. for average use you like the less weight in the new gyro? how does it slow speed track with less weight? does the gyro slow down much faster? have to get your opinion cuz I haven't got one yet
 
slow speed isnt to bad IF the surface isnt really bumpy.
my yard is typical grass after snow year. firm but bumpy as hell. as its not been rolled in YRS. lol so with the less weight it bounced quite a bit more. on road or on a smooth track it should be much better. i did get afew onroad runs and it did getup and go well and was pretty smooth running. if you go lightened gyro you may want a softer rear shock. food for thought.

didnt pay attention if it slowed faster or not, but physics suggests it would a bit. i have a shock coming so once i get it installed, i ll check that out. hopefully i get it saturday. may be gone next week for work all week.

i think the bikes, in relation to surface being used, is REALLY going to play a roll in gyro setup. i think in a big way for offroad especially.
 
Damn, I wish someone had a larger battery door for these things. Got one of my packs today, but it is not going to fit without some modifications for sure. I'm not even 100% sure I'm going to get it to fit. I did hook it up and test it out though, and it will rip once I get it in the tray. It's the 2s 5200mah 30c/40c turnigy hardcase pack.
As far as upgrading the bl system goes, what have some people put in there? As for the castle systems, is there a huge advantage going with the mamba instead of the sidewinder in one of these?
 
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Dubsak said:
Damn, I wish someone had a larger battery door for these things. Got one of my packs today, but it is not going to fit without some modifications for sure. I'm not even 100% sure I'm going to get it to fit. I did hook it up and test it out though, and it will rip once I get it in the tray. It's the 2s 5200mah 30c/40c turnigy hardcase pack.
As far as upgrading the bl system goes, what have some people put in there? As for the castle systems, is there a huge advantage going with the mamba instead of the sidewinder in one of these?
Click to expand...

Maybe a dumb question, but does the case come off easily? If so, that might shave a few mm's off the height (then just heat shrink the pack with regular battery pack heat shrink). This might give you some wiggle room in the battery case.

I'm thinking the mamba vs the sidewinder....I would go with the Max Pro if I was thinking about one. It can take many more cells (not that the dx needs more than a 3s). But you may want to put it in another vehicle some day.
 
I'll just have to break out the dremel and see what I can do. I may dremel out the back of the battery box, and use velcro there to compensate for the extra length of the pack.
The case is really thin, and I can feel the cells up against it, so I will only peel off the case as a last resort. It doesn't feel like it's adding too much to the height. We'll see. I'm determined to make this thing fit, but the in laws are on their way over right now, so I'll try later on.

Edit: Thanks for the pics Chris. I think what you did under the esc would help me a lot to make clearance for these heavy gauge wires they use.
 
I had to cut the hell out of my battery box to get that turnigy pack to fit, but I finally got it jammed in there and ran it today. Also installed my lightweight gyro last night, amazing how heavy the stocker is. My rear fender is toast from the wheelies, and I definitely see that the next upgrade has to be a steering damper. New rear tire is on the agenda too. Got a 3s 4000mah pack on the way that should fit a little better than this one. What a blast!
 
I was reading about maybe turning the wheel back around to the short version. with the wheel in trailing edge it should shopping cart so much... flipping around the front leading may be causing some issues... just finished my ofna, so the bike is next.
 
pipeous said:
I was reading about maybe turning the wheel back around to the short version. with the wheel in trailing edge it should shopping cart so much... flipping around the front leading may be causing some issues... just finished my ofna, so the bike is next.
Click to expand...

Let me ask you this, I turned mine around. When I push down on my oil filled shocks AND if I don't push down at a certain angle, they won't budge (they are smooth and there isn't binding). If I flip the front hub back around and shorten the wheel base, do you think that may help the suspension compress easier due to a steeper angle? I think I'm going to have to try it and see.
 
well it's an angle thing too... my dx450 lives again woohoo... seems things tightened up a bit with the new metal parts. I didn't add any weights or rings to the new cnc gyro to try it out super light... going to go outside the house and try it out and see shortly. my front fender had almost ripped right off. we'll see if my shoe goo and fibre tape will hold it together now
 
I just tried the bike outside on 3s with the new modified rc gyro. I had zero weights and no rings... it's like a totally different rc to drive. it handles more like an on road bike at low speeds as the gyro isn't really spooling up. my battery seemed to be dumping fast and my esc was getting warm. I can't be sure why so going to pop a different lipo in and try again.

I think I will have to add some weights though to get a little more gyro action before I head to the bmx track. the steering was more responsive as it leaned way faster and found myself over correcting a lot more than usual and I turned down the steering rate a bit. I had tightened the springs for that tight track I ran on when the gyro went oh so long ago so just remebering what I had done... and of course i snapped another crash guard. they are getting might short now
 
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