Braap’s raminator build

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Shakidd7 said:
I have a Raminator also with a RC MAX 50 GT. I had the same problem with them Servos. They don't come calibrate out the box and they fight with each other and burn out very fast. I went threw 5 in a week. I ended up driving to the Primal rc store and they gave me the upgraded Servos and said plug them up first so the motors can calibrate, then attach the horn so they can be aligned. Also Blue Loctite every screw on the truck cause they will all rattle lose with any upgraded engine. I found myself replacing 1 or 2 screws everytime I drove it.

That engine ain't no joke. You will need a Wheelie bar for it, I'm telling you from my mistake, I hit the throttle and the truck did a back flip on me and smashed the roll cage on the pipe dented it. I had to bend it back. Also it's good to get the exhaust silencer they sell for the rc max raminator engine from DETROIT PERFORMANCE, cause it's going to be so loud where you can't hear and will need ear plugs. Just trying advice from what I went threw. ONE more Important thing they don't tell you is, you will WANT TO ZIP TIE THE SCREW THAT CONNECTS YOUR DRIVE SHAFT AFTER YOU LOCTITE IT. I lost that SCREW 4 TIMES AND IT WONT DRIVE WITHOUT IT. JUST TRYING TO PREVENT THE HEADACHES I WAS HAVING. The Raminator get so much attention everywhere you go. Its a Beast..
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Thx for all the advice. I was debating about the silencer after i hear it first but will take your advice and get the silencer. I seen a youtuber post a vid with the silencer and i kinda hated how quiet it was on video but then again i live in a urban neighborhood and even tho ive been here my whole life new neighbors are a pain in my arse.

i like how your wrap came out. I wanted a darkside wrap initially but might try to save some coin and just paint the body something nice.
Some more progress today.. installed the js gas tank and raised it to clear the air filter. Installed my futaba receiver so i can use my transmitter. Wired in the new killer rc power switch. Glued some foam under the lipo.
 

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Braap2smoke said:
Thx for all the advice. I was debating about the silencer after i hear it first but will take your advice and get the silencer. I seen a youtuber post a vid with the silencer and i kinda hated how quiet it was on video but then again i live in a urban neighborhood and even tho ive been here my whole life new neighbors are a pain in my arse.

i like how your wrap came out. I wanted a darkside wrap initially but might try to save some coin and just paint the body something nice.
Some more progress today.. installed the js gas tank and raised it to clear the air filter. Installed my futaba receiver so i can use my transmitter. Wired in the new killer rc power switch. Glued some foam under the lipo.
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When I seen the YouTube video I thought it would be quiet too. But you can steel hear the exhaust pretty good. It still sound like a dirt bike coming down the street still. The neighbors still roll there eyes at me when I drive it. I just unhook the silencer when I go to a open park.
RcJunkie13 said:
Are u sure about that switch on the back like that? Like on a back landing or flips/wheelies it may switch off by the looks of it
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If it has a Wheelie bar on it, it will be fine. But without a Wheelie bar that whole back of that truck will rip of and break even the back of the body. It happened to me on the first Wheelie. Also it's good to get the JS PROFORMANCE CNC BODY MOUNTS cause them plastic mounts will snap off fast.
 
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Braap2smoke said:
Yes i plan to get a wheelie bar and the js mounts were going to be the only mods. This rig is already real expensive. Everything else is break as i go and replace.
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I know, that's how I was when I got it. Then it was problem after problem. And I didn't have it for a week at the time. I used to be so mad and night I was up all night watching the little bit of YouTube videos there was at the time. It was to the point where I drove 3 hours to the Primal rc store in NEW YORK and sat there to they opened. From kill switch wire harness kept burning out, Front and rear differential kept breaking losing front or rear drive, Servos burning out and this was all during break in. So if anything breaks within 30 days don't buy a replacement, contact Primal Rc by email or go there if it's not to far and they will replace it for free. $3,000 Is alot for a truck that suppose to be ready to run out the box. If you can put the truck on a stand and hit the throttle to make sure all 4 wheels turn. Cause the differentials is known to be broken. Just trying to help.
 
Well I over loaded the square connect piece on the drive line with locktight , and on the other end I'm trying the gorilla tape and zip tie thing , if I ever get a chance to get away from working for my boat project , I'm there on that now , and we're getting rain so it's gunna be good at the orv park , yes Mr. Dizzle , I'll get some pics 🤣
 
Shakidd7 said:
I know, that's how I was when I got it. Then it was problem after problem. And I didn't have it for a week at the time. I used to be so mad and night I was up all night watching the little bit of YouTube videos there was at the time. It was to the point where I drove 3 hours to the Primal rc store in NEW YORK and sat there to they opened. From kill switch wire harness kept burning out, Front and rear differential kept breaking losing front or rear drive, Servos burning out and this was all during break in. So if anything breaks within 30 days don't buy a replacement, contact Primal Rc by email or go there if it's not to far and they will replace it for free. $3,000 Is alot for a truck that suppose to be ready to run out the box. If you can put the truck on a stand and hit the throttle to make sure all 4 wheels turn. Cause the differentials is known to be broken. Just trying to help.
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He's putting an 80cc engine in it, good luck getting any sort of warranty out of them, beside wiring and servos.
 
Seandonato73 said:
He's putting an 80cc engine in it, good luck getting any sort of warranty out of them, beside wiring and servos.
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Just to let you know there is not any warranty on Primal Rc Raminator, it's says it when you click I accept before you purchase. There is only a 14 day guarantee that the vehicle will be working and running out the box. So make sure everything is working before 14 days or you will be paying out of pocket.
 
Everything goes flyn ! 🤣 these engines are crazy power n torque , I can't even imagine the 80 , the 50 is enuff to keep me smiling , dig a trench everywhere I go 🤣, everybody grabs there rigs and gets out da way 🤣 , dam exhaust is some serious feeling behind it , whole new world of RC fer sure, have a blast man u will fer sure , two words,,,,, hex pins !!!!! 🤣😂😁😀
 
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Also at Primal Rc, they tell you that they don't recommend a 80cc cause the truck will guarantee break on you cause it is to much power for the truck. They said the best is 50cc.
 
Well.. its coming together. Got the axles installed. Did the mods to the diffs. Glad i opened up the diffs because they were not filled up with fluid. It had enough to say there was no metal to metal contact but not completely full at all.. changed out to 300k as that was the closest i could find to 250k. 250 is what mike T suggested i run.
9F9B9CBA-D051-426F-A0EF-CEB9F36FB60F.jpeg

tonight i will run the brake lines and try to get my steering servos and EPA all dialed in. If tomorrow is not windy id like to paint the body.
E799F8F0-FA10-4FC9-B65E-641A0D83D1F4.jpeg
Gonna go with gold base and red pearl. Gotta rep my 49ers!.
 
Braap2smoke said:
Well.. its coming together. Got the axles installed. Did the mods to the diffs. Glad i opened up the diffs because they were not filled up with fluid. It had enough to say there was no metal to metal contact but not completely full at all.. changed out to 300k as that was the closest i could find to 250k. 250 is what mike T suggested i run.
View attachment 78928

tonight i will run the brake lines and try to get my steering servos and EPA all dialed in. If tomorrow is not windy id like to paint the body.
View attachment 78929
Gonna go with gold base and red pearl. Gotta rep my 49ers!.
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Hi, what kind of mod do you have for the differentials, cause I be having problems with mines. Tired of paying $90 every time for a new one.
 
RickDizzle said:
What specific issue are you having with the differentials breaking?
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The issues I was having was the 4 screws that attach both parts of the differential snapped in haft 2 differential times making me loose front wheel drive. The last time my pinion in the differential got stripped down and I also had greese in it. Do anybody make upgraded differentials for the Raminator.
 
Shakidd7 said:
The issues I was having was the 4 screws that attach both parts of the differential snapped in haft 2 differential times making me loose front wheel drive. The last time my pinion in the differential got stripped down and I also had greese in it. Do anybody make upgraded differentials for the Raminator.
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This is the trick we have been doing with the differentials to prevent that issue. The issue isn't the differential, it's the weak screws. This will fix it.
Go to page 8, post 153.

https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/rickdizzles-raminator-build.25853/page-8

@John Parks showed me this trick and it is well worth it. Here is a quick pic as well. This is what I talked about in my build thread as well.

20210916_125608.jpg
 
RickDizzle said:
This is the trick we have been doing with the differentials to prevent that issue. The issue isn't the differential, it's the weak screws. This will fix it.
Go to page 8, post 153.

https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/rickdizzles-raminator-build.25853/page-8

@John Parks showed me this trick and it is well worth it. Here is a quick pic as well. This is what I talked about in my build thread as well.

View attachment 78932
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I'm on my 4th differential, now do I have to drill threw it. What size screw is that. Also do I have to dremmel that Red part of the differential to make clearance for the lock nut.
 
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