Impossible to get rid of interferences in my Baja

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Way too damn lazy to read the 4 pages, but I know you disconnected the ks, did you remove the entire lead and off button? If not ,just remove the whole assembly. And see if that's the problem. .that's about all I can think of,
Wonder if a glitch buster would fix your issues ? it is kinda a bandaid fix though.
 
Im stumped. If we really look at the whole scope of things the engine hasn't been changed entirely only ignition parts. I know Sean said it doesn't matter about having metal isolators for the coil but since we turned over almost every rock here what are you using to isolate the coil from the head?
 
Im stumped. If we really look at the whole scope of things the engine hasn't been changed entirely only ignition parts. I know Sean said it doesn't matter about having metal isolators for the coil but since we turned over almost every rock here what are you using to isolate the coil from the head?
I had aluminum spacers between the coil for the longest time, didn't make a difference ?‍♂️?
 
Im stumped. If we really look at the whole scope of things the engine hasn't been changed entirely only ignition parts. I know Sean said it doesn't matter about having metal isolators for the coil but since we turned over almost every rock here what are you using to isolate the coil from the head?
You mean here?
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Plastic spacers, doesn't matter though, the screws are metallic, (and my rovan LT uses metal ones)
Way too damn lazy to read the 4 pages, but I know you disconnected the ks, did you remove the entire lead and off button? If not ,just remove the whole assembly. And see if that's the problem. .that's about all I can think of,
Wonder if a glitch buster would fix your issues ? it is kinda a bandaid fix though.
I checked and replaced the whole assembly, power button, coil, wire and plug cap from another rig, no luck...
 
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Guys remember the radio fail safe is only supposed to activate when it loses signal. doesn't have peepee to do with battery voltage. The kill switch will activate with both (if set up that way, which is default) so not a battery issue.

The coil doesn't give a rats arse of it has metal or plastic spacers.
Again I'll ask what brand of coil did you use? The rovan brand is notorious for giving grief, I can't remember if you said it off your other rig, or you bought a new one. I'm fairly sure you have your bases covered there, but couldn't remember what you've said.

If it's not the servo, then I would personally cap it out. You seem to have covered your bases fairly well. Save physically swapping out the engine. Weirder things have happened though.
 
Last thing I’ll do, (when Im in the mood of wasting more time and have nothing else to do) is to run a lipo straight to the rx, and let it cook and burn the fuc*ing thing down...
The system is rated for 8,4v, but yeah Ill run a lipo directly connected to the rx with extra wires or switches.
Guys remember the radio fail safe is only supposed to activate when it loses signal. doesn't have peepee to do with battery voltage. The kill switch will activate with both (if set up that way, which is default) so not a battery issue.

The coil doesn't give a rats arse of it has metal or plastic spacers.
Again I'll ask what brand of coil did you use? The rovan brand is notorious for giving grief, I can't remember if you said it off your other rig, or you bought a new one. I'm fairly sure you have your bases covered there, but couldn't remember what you've said.

If it's not the servo, then I would personally cap it out. You seem to have covered your bases fairly well. Save physically swapping out the engine. Weirder things have happened though.
One is genuine Hpi coil that came with one of the rigs, and the other (current) one, came from a 36cc Rovan engine, both work well in other setups, but the rig yield same issue.
 
Just don't let the lipo go up in smoke, and truthfully youll.most likely just burn out the board.
Yeah I was kidding, Ill run a lipo connected to the rx, bypassing any extra wiring and power switch to discard both the battery and the switch.
If that doesn't work, it is probably going to be the engine, which I’m not swapping any time soon .
 
So Hello again and welcome back to the (soon) anniversary of this cursed doomed Baja.

I figured out that just out of curiosity someone else might be interested to know what happened, (maybe someone encounters the same issue, wouldn’t wish it to my worst enemy).

I ended up replacing the engine, (as a recap; everything that has electrons passing through has been replaced in this rig), no luck.

But finally; what fixed this glitch of death was bypassing the on/off switch. (This one has been replaced twice at least), gently touching it would turn off the power…


So my theory is that certain vibrations at a certain frequency would cause the switch to make a false contact turning the power on and off many times per second, that would cause this weird issue (the car would not respond and lose connection to the radio, for 4-5 seconds before failsafe kicked in without ever connecting back unless the radio and rx were power cycled) and ofc it only happened when the engine was running.

Merry Christmas 🎄
 
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